What kind of times are Roe vipers running?

slowfrc

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I'm starting to think about a roe for my 98 gts and want to get an idea of how well they run. From what I understand they made mid 600s rwhp with a 10lb pulley and obvious supporting mods/bolt ons(correct me if I'm wrong). What are 10lb cars running in the 1/4? I'd imagine well driven and set up ones could run low 10s at mid 130s but what they should do on paper and what people actually get in real life could be way different. Agree, disagree, got personal results to share?
 

mattdillon

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I'm starting to think about a roe for my 98 gts and want to get an idea of how well they run. From what I understand they made mid 600s rwhp with a 10lb pulley and obvious supporting mods/bolt ons(correct me if I'm wrong). What are 10lb cars running in the 1/4? I'd imagine well driven and set up ones could run low 10s at mid 130s but what they should do on paper and what people actually get in real life could be way different. Agree, disagree, got personal results to share?
I know the night they had ALL Vipers on Pass Time, I don't remember ANY of them that got in the 10's & they were pretty much ALL TwinTurbo's & it doesn't get much faster than that (but, I think someone had said the track was not in real good shape that particular night)! I know there's some 10 sec. street Vipers, but I don't know Any. I've never understood why some guys spend 10-20k for maybe 1-2 sec. difference (but maybe thats why I have a CreamPuff). To me it just seems like most Vipers have a hard time getting traction off the line (most all I've ever seen just roll off the line) I'm sure, now you'll hear from quite a few of the 10 sec. Guys though! Good Luck with getting yours there! jmo
 
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slowfrc

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They run really well, at least mine does.


mine made 680/656 on 8lbs, with ported heads, 1.7 rockers and 3" exhaust.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxNQGmhmFYk

Do you mind giving a ride in yours next time we run into each other at a cars and coffee or something? I'm trying to decide if it's worth the money and feeling it would help a lot.

I know the night they had ALL Vipers on Pass Time, I don't remember ANY of them that got in the 10's & they were pretty much ALL TwinTurbo's & it doesn't get much faster than that (but, I think someone had said the track was not in real good shape that particular night)! I know there's some 10 sec. street Vipers, but I don't know Any. I've never understood why some guys spend 10-20k for maybe 1-2 sec. difference (but maybe thats why I have a CreamPuff). To me it just seems like most Vipers have a hard time getting traction off the line (most all I've ever seen just roll off the line) I'm sure, now you'll hear from quite a few of the 10 sec. Guys though! Good Luck with getting yours there! jmo

I know I mentioned 1/4 times but I'm much more interested in trap speed since that'll show me how it'll feel on the street. I wouldn't drag my car much I just want to know if it would have the power to be a 135 trap car.
 

Viper Grenade

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My all motor viper does 10.8@133 all day long on DR and its a cream puff. Just uses a solid roller cam.
 

mattdillon

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My all motor viper does 10.8@133 all day long on DR and its a cream puff. Just uses a solid roller cam.
SWEET! Grenade, what other mods do you have. Are you running stock gears, do you run the DR's on the street or just the strip (I had thought about running them on my car). That is definitely a good time especially for a creampuff (but I imagine those DR's make ALL the difference in the world)! What kind of time do you run on street tires.
 

EllowViper

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...or just pick-up my system off EBAY...search ROE RACING...it actually better than the original ROE offering with the updated blower, manifold, SIEMENS injectors, 70mm TBs, and other misc small parts. I leave the country for two week Sunday but will be back over Labor Day.
 

KNG SNKE

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...or just pick-up my system off EBAY...search ROE RACING...it actually better than the original ROE offering with the updated blower, manifold, SIEMENS injectors, 70mm TBs, and other misc small parts. I leave the country for two week Sunday but will be back over Labor Day.

And he is a well known well documented seller. If your considering it this kit is your best bet.
 

Roysviper

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I'm starting to think about a roe for my 98 gts and want to get an idea of how well they run. From what I understand they made mid 600s rwhp with a 10lb pulley and obvious supporting mods/bolt ons(correct me if I'm wrong). What are 10lb cars running in the 1/4? I'd imagine well driven and set up ones could run low 10s at mid 130s but what they should do on paper and what people actually get in real life could be way different. Agree, disagree, got personal results to share?

I had a 96 ROE GTS and I raced it in the 1/8th mi and ran 6.61 E.T....I had a 1.49 60', ....Before I got it it had been ran at Bradenton and ran 10.29 1/4 mi E.T......It was a very nice, fast Viper.......I snapped a 800 h.p UNITREX half shaft in half at the tree with it the very first time I went to the track....replaced it with a new one and never had another problem with it.......
 

01viper4me

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I know the night they had ALL Vipers on Pass Time, I don't remember ANY of them that got in the 10's & they were pretty much ALL TwinTurbo's & it doesn't get much faster than that (but, I think someone had said the track was not in real good shape that particular night)! I know there's some 10 sec. street Vipers, but I don't know Any. I've never understood why some guys spend 10-20k for maybe 1-2 sec. difference (but maybe thats why I have a CreamPuff). To me it just seems like most Vipers have a hard time getting traction off the line (most all I've ever seen just roll off the line) I'm sure, now you'll hear from quite a few of the 10 sec. Guys though! Good Luck with getting yours there! jmo

None of those cars were running drag radials so they all spun the tires the whole way down the track. With the proper setup and driver, a UGR TT Viper could easily hit 9's. The Twin Turbo UGR Vipers are highway kings. These guys go down to TX2K12 events and do highway pulls for big money.
A proper ROE setup will get you into the 10's. Again, tires and driver mod are very important. Our Vipers with the extremely rigid chassis, massive torque, and front engine placement, make it pretty tough to launch the car without spinning.
 

KNG SNKE

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A basic Roe setup will get you into the 10's. I have seen plenty of 5lb setups run high 10's. As the video above shows, you can get into the 9's on a Roe setup as well. A bit more challenging but not impossible non the less. It is all driver.
 

Camfab

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I've often wondered what a bone stock Viper would run with just a ROE blower added. I think a set of drag radials on a set of 18" or smaller wheels would do the trick. Assuming a good driver of course. I can only assume that the ROE like the Paxton probably suffers from heat soak and would produce wildly differing results based on air temp and heat soak. I've got to say that these types of blowers sound fantastic.
 
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EllowViper

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When I picked-up my original ROE from Fuelman, he was running 10.08 on a 6.5 PSI pulley with a small NOS shot on a creampuff motor. NOS and ROEs go great together. He had Bellagers headers (which I also picked-up). Everything else was stock. Not sure what tires he was running. That set-up was installed and tuned by M2 with a VEC-II (of which I also have in a box). As far as heat soak with a ROE, not so much. They will hit a peak temp and that's about it due to the cooling effect more and more air flowing through it has. In fact, they run the hottest at idle and putting around town due to the lack of appreciable airflow cycling through the rotors. Add some W/M and they will run relatively cool all day long (well, you get the idea).
 

Viper Grenade

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A big change was with motons I tweaked for drag racing and the DR's. Going to try some slicks. I am hitting 1.5 60's but I have seen vipers run 1.2 60's. The car is knocking on the door of 9's.


My point with all of this is that with some DR's and good driving a 650-700rwhp ROE should be a 9 sec car
 
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slowfrc

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Not sure what shot that had, but without nitrous he's ran 9.68/144.

Hmm I assume that's an h/c car with **** then? 144 is hauling.

I'm just 22 whp shy of that and I am only on 8lb with no w/m.


Come to Fair Lakes C&C tomorrow and I'll give you a ride.

Just saw this message. Weather permitting I'll be at Katies next week so I guess we'll do it then.

There have to be some more roe guys out there with track times. I know there are a bunch people who have had/have roe cars on here.
 

Camfab

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When I picked-up my original ROE from Fuelman, he was running 10.08 on a 6.5 PSI pulley with a small NOS shot on a creampuff motor. NOS and ROEs go great together. He had Bellagers headers (which I also picked-up). Everything else was stock. Not sure what tires he was running. That set-up was installed and tuned by M2 with a VEC-II (of which I also have in a box). As far as heat soak with a ROE, not so much. They will hit a peak temp and that's about it due to the cooling effect more and more air flowing through it has. In fact, they run the hottest at idle and putting around town due to the lack of appreciable airflow cycling through the rotors. Add some W/M and they will run relatively cool all day long (well, you get the idea).

I'm not going to argue with you since you have one of these cars, however I don't see how these run cooler without the use of water/ **** injection. I had a blown car years ago, but it had carbs on top of it, so the fuel did tend to cool the blower down somewhat due to the fuel flowing over the blower rotors. The gas law states that an increase in pressure will always result in an increase in temperature. In both of your examples, water injection/ **** and or NOS injection acts as a vital aftercooler for a large increase in air temp created by boost, a band aid for a lack of an aftercooler. This is why I felt that ambient temperature as well as heat soak would produce inconsistent power output. My experience with a blown car was that air temp would make a larger differential in consistency than a N/A car. Anyway like I said youv'e had experience with the package and I haven't.
 
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plumcrazy

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Not sure what shot that had, but without nitrous he's ran 9.68/144.

dont use this car as any kind of benchmark for roes. the driver and the car are not your typical equipped owner/car. tony can flat out drive and that is nowhere near a stock engine. the car now has TT's

tony would beat 95% of the vipers on this board if he was driving a pinto. (me included)
 

Darth Menace

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A basic Roe setup will get you into the 10's. I have seen plenty of 5lb setups run high 10's. As the video above shows, you can get into the 9's on a Roe setup as well. A bit more challenging but not impossible non the less. It is all driver.
How can roe with 300hp(ish) less than a TT run 9-10 when the typical TT runs 10's? not trying to sound like im an ass....just asking is all
 

EllowViper

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I'm not going to argue with you since you have one of these cars, however I don't see how these run cooler without the use of water/ **** injection. I had a blown car years ago, but it had carbs on top of it, so the fuel did tend to cool the blower down somewhat due to the fuel flowing over the blower rotors. The gas law states that an increase in pressure will always result in an increase in temperature. In both of your examples, water injection/ **** and or NOS injection acts as a vital aftercooler for a large increase in air temp created by boost, a band aid for a lack of an aftercooler. This is why I felt that ambient temperature as well as heat soak would produce inconsistent power output. My experience with a blown car was that air temp would make a larger differential in consistency than a N/A car. Anyway like I said youv'e had experience with the package and I haven't.

Not that they run cooler. Mine even with W/M has very hot outlet temps. But that's not due to heat soak...but the gas law as you expressed. The blower itself will only get so hot..and not get hotter and hotter and hotter, etc. Its temp peaks (usually during low speed driving and not due to boost) Kenne Bell has a good explaination of this on their site somewhere. Even with W/M, outlet temps can get crazy high since the intercooling is being done before compression. So even if you were to get the ambient air going into the blower down to 50 degrees, you compress it 15 psi and instantly you've added 150 degrees to ambient. It would be good to measure just to log all this. I think the bigest benefit to W/M is to comtrol some of the combustion...not so much as an intercooler. There is some benefit no doubt, but unless you can spray post blower, its not as effective.
 

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