What routine maintenance is due on my 99 RT/10?

pocketAA

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I have a 99 RT/10 with 7000 miles on it. I am not the orig owner of the car. The orig owner of the car only changed the oil at regular intervals from what I know. At this milage and age what does everyone suggest I do to ensure the car keeps running properly?
Thanks!
 
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pocketAA

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I figured all the fluids would need to be changed. Is it easy to change the plugs? What wires would need to be replaced? Tires are the originals but they are still in good condition.
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plumcrazy

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originals are gonna be dry and not worth it to keep them. get AB's wires. he is an advertiser here. and the plugs are easy to change out.
 

SoCal Rebell

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originals are gonna be dry and not worth it to keep them. get AB's wires. he is an advertiser here. and the plugs are easy to change out.

Phil's correct (for a change :D ) all the rubber is 8-9 years old, especially the tires, their compound breaks down on a molecular level due to age, not a good thing in a Viper. The plugs are as simple as it gets, remove the plastic passanger side air box, I believe 3-4 screws and you can reach every plug :)
 
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pocketAA

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I know this is going to sound dumb, but how do you change the wires? Which wires are we talking about?
Thanks!
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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I know this is going to sound dumb, but how do you change the wires? Which wires are we talking about?
Thanks!

Spark plug wires. You'll have to remove the windshield wipers and cowl to get to the box behind the motor. Have someone that has done it before show you.



:2tu: for having the ballz to ask an unbelievably dumb question.



:D Just jokin' with ya.
 

ruckdr

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Yes to all said.
Plugs are EASY as stated, use stock Champion plugs #412. Plug Wires are also EASY as stated above; do them ONE at a time. Use AB's (Adam) wires, for a GEN 1. They are all marked for each cylinder - eliminates the need to determine the correct length.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-20...019QQitemZ290126622590QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Be very careful if you keep the original stock tires (MXX3, I think), they will be VERY hard with not much grip.

Good Luck,
Don
 
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pocketAA

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I hear what everyone has been saying about replacing my 8 year old tires, but the mechanic I trust looked at them and said they were still in good shape. I only drive the car on clear sunny days, I have not had any problems with traction so far. Are there any tricks to changing the plugs? Don't they have to be torqued to a certain level?
 

ruckdr

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My service manual says 20 ft/lbs; amazing I just looked it up after changing many, many sets of plugs throughout the years - I guess one just gets used to the 'feel'.

Don
 

plumcrazy

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your trusted mechanic is wrong. and he didnt test for hardness i guarantee it. thats the problem with the tires.

if its money, i understand but absolutely put it on your next things to do to the car
 

SoCal Rebell

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your trusted mechanic is wrong. and he didnt test for hardness i guarantee it. thats the problem with the tires.

if its money, i understand but absolutely put it on your next things to do to the car

Again Phil is correct, your mechanic is a idiot. The may look good, feel good and have no cracks but the compound changes with age. They get harder, loss of grip and worst of all loss of tire integrity. Your tires are the most important part of your car, don't learn the hard way, pop for a set of Pilot Sports and even on those check the "born on" date stamped on the sidewall and make sure it's not more then a year old.
 
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ViperVon

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Phil's correct (for a change :D ) all the rubber is 8-9 years old, especially the tires, their compound breaks down on a molecular level due to age, not a good thing in a Viper. The plugs are as simple as it gets, remove the plastic passanger side air box, I believe 3-4 screws and you can reach every plug :)

your trusted mechanic is wrong. and he didnt test for hardness i guarantee it. thats the problem with the tires.

if its money, i understand but absolutely put it on your next things to do to the car

Listen to the boys!!:poke: A set of rubber is much cheaper than a snake bite:2tu:
 

CROM

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They they are original Tires then,Tires Tires Tires Tires Tires Tires Tires.......oh TIRES...., ALL FLUIDS, coolant, tranny fluid, brake fluid, clutch fluid, diff fluid + additive, P/S Fluid, plugs, wires, check spare Donut for proper pressure, check surpentine belt for cracking, Fuel Filter if you're bored and like annoyances,....I'll add more when I think of it.

See this link for all your fluid needs:

http://www.yandros.com/Viper/ViperFluids.htm

Plugs: Champion Spark Plug: RC12LYC Copperhttp://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=CHA&MfrPartNumber=412&PartType=960&PTSet=A
Plug Wires: AB's Wires http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-20...019QQitemZ290126622590QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 
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Purdue_Boiler_Viper

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You will also need to lube your chassis: upper and lower ball joints in front and back, outer tie rods in front and toe links in the back. Just lube each point until a slight swelling is seen in the boot. Don't overfill.
 

AFL in NJ

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My memory may be flawed, but aren't our cylinder heads aluminum? If so, remember to put a dab of anti-seize compound on the spark plugs so that you can get them out next time. If I'm wrong on this one, someone please correct me.

Regards,
Aaron
 

moeviper

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All fluids, plug wires, plugs. Change the TIRES, huge difference in traction, I have a 94 that i changed tires on, they stick when cornering, the old ones looked good but when pushed they had no traction.
 

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