Where to get 02 Sims if I want to take the cats out completely?

[Rizzo]

Where would I get these and how much? I might want to take the cats out completely. Also. I am thinking about going to the shorty headers on the newer Vipers. Does anyone have any kicking around? Mine's a 98 and I understand that the shorty headers flow a bit better and give better sound. I like loud.

Thanks,

Rizzo

 

[plumcrazy]

roe racing has them i believe

 

[LETHAL GTS]

Summit
Roe
http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCat_P.asp?ProdSort=1&idCategory=9&page=2&iPageSize=10

 

[2000gtsgsxr1000]

Casper electronics has the plug and play ones I think Roe you need to splice.

 

[Rizzo]

Thats weird cuz the Casper ones are cheaper too. I guess I'll go that route and avoid splicing and soldering.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Casper electronics has the plug and play ones I think Roe you need to splice.

Nope Roe's are plug and play on a 98!

 

[cyaford]

Does a '98 need simms?

 

[EastTnMan]

I have heard that the need for simulators vary from vehicle to vehicle. I have a '97 GTS, and every 1000 miles I get a check engine light since I deleted the cats. The OBDII says it is the "faulty O2sensor". I fixed this by simply buying an OBDII scanner, and every 1000 miles when the light comes on, I read it and delete it. Works well, and I have not purchased the sims. I figure if I have to plug in the scanner every few months and delete the light, that's not too bad, and cheaper than the sims.

 

[Rizzo]

I thought it messed with the computer if you did this and did funny things like retarding timing and playing with ratios etc to try and compensate for the low readings? No? I'm thinking I would rather have it just work adn be done with itbut that is an option anyway.

 

[cayman]

I deleted the cats on my '98 RT. I went ahead and bought the Casper sims but didn't put them on immediately. I drove the car without any Check Engine light for 40 or 50 miles and then they finally came on. I put the sims on and although it took several cycles and 40 or 50 additional miles, the light finally went off. The light has been off now for a month and 100 miles so far.

 

[EllowViper]

Bought mine on-line for $25.00. Do a GOOGLE search on O2 sims. Dual channel so all I needed was one sim for both 02 sensors. Here is the info:
Item Price: $24.99 USD
Total Shipping: $5.00 USD
Total: $29.99 USD
Item/Product Name: O2 Sensor Simulator
Item/Product Number: A-O2SIM
Buyer: XXXXX
Message: GOOGLE
Vehicle 2001 Dodge Viper w/dual downstream sensors.

Business Information

Business: [email protected]

 

[95Viper]

We used Casper plug in ones on dad's 2001. I didn't need any, obviously, on my 95.

 

[cyaford]

I deleted the cats on my '98 RT. I went ahead and bought the Casper sims but didn't put them on immediately. I drove the car without any Check Engine light for 40 or 50 miles and then they finally came on. I put the sims on and although it took several cycles and 40 or 50 additional miles, the light finally went off. The light has been off now for a month and 100 miles so far.

I remember reading a while back about early Gen IIs(96-99) not needing the simms. Some cars in that range would eventually need the simms, as the CEL would not go away. Members with no simms did say that it would take as much as 100 miles for the CEL to go away, though. I guess it's one of those weird things that there is no explanation for. You would think they would either need the simms or not need the simms, not some will and some will not.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Gen 1's wont need Sims. Gen 2's SHOULD need sims, but many Gen 2 owners report driving thousands of miles and no CEL has come on

 

[Cop Magnet]

I thought it messed with the computer if you did this and did funny things like retarding timing and playing with ratios etc to try and compensate for the low readings? No? I'm thinking I would rather have it just work adn be done with itbut that is an option anyway.

The upstream O2 sensor regulates fuel injector pulse width, engine timing, and the fuel mixture. The downstream one is there simply to check for variances pre- and post-cat. If the variances are low, the cat's "bad" and the light goes on.

So, you can drive without cats and not have sims, or drive and reset the sims every so-many miles. Or just put the sims in and not worry about it ever again. As long as your car is in tune you should pass emissions, I believe. Well, I'll find out soon enough.

The O2 sensors do not need to come out to do this. The rear O2 sensors are in the exhaust on each side above and forward of the rear diff. Put your hand up there from underneath and follow the tubing till you feel the sensor. Then follow the wire from that sensor to where the connector is. On mine, the wiring went to the frame rail and took a sharp turn back after mixing with some other wires, so be careful. Once you find the connector, you need to pull up on the lock tab and pull the two halves apart. Plug your new sim into the receiving part (away from the exhaust). That should do it. I then strapped the old and new halves together with electrical tape so hopefuly there would be no visual evidence, and tie-wrapped it as high as I could above other wires in that area.

Got mine from JonB. Half hour job max both sides for the sims alone.