Which is better water/**** or nitrous
- Thread starter Dietz
- Start date
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Go with the NOS.
Ummm...
I hope you're getting this professionally installed.
Good luck...
And professionally tuned..........
BOTTLEFED
Enthusiast
Haha,
I need NAWWWZZZ!!!!
I need NAWWWZZZ!!!!
eucharistos
Enthusiast
BOTTLEFED
Enthusiast
amateurs don't use nitrous oxide! I've seen the way you drive, you've got a heavy foot...
.... you'll blow yaself to pieces
.... you'll blow yaself to pieces
Black Moon
Enthusiast
I've got a new NOS set up in the classified section 75-135 HP gains. Works with a wide open throttle switch but you could wire a manual switch. Flow and fuel enrichment is computer controlled but the kit. Check it out. Great HP gains for a reasonable cost.
Is this a dry system and have you ever taken a/f readings at wot?
Agreed, 2 different animals with different benefits. If you want power on demand and more punch whenever you want it, then you want nitrous. However, IMHO, W/M can be very beneficial too, and would recommend running both if you can because they each serve their own purpose.
W/M is not just for cooling FI cars, it can be used for N/A motors too. Off the top of my head There are 3 major benefits to using W/M. One, it raises compression which allows you to add in a few extra degrees of timing, which in turn gives you more power (no different than if you had a FI motor). Two, it runs cooler which gives your engine a longer life, and three, it keeps your engine running cleaner by burning out the carbon build up in the motor. For the money, W/M injection is a worthwhile upgrade for any performance car.
Again, just my $.02.
W/M is not just for cooling FI cars, it can be used for N/A motors too. Off the top of my head There are 3 major benefits to using W/M. One, it raises compression which allows you to add in a few extra degrees of timing, which in turn gives you more power (no different than if you had a FI motor). Two, it runs cooler which gives your engine a longer life, and three, it keeps your engine running cleaner by burning out the carbon build up in the motor. For the money, W/M injection is a worthwhile upgrade for any performance car.
Again, just my $.02.
CitySnake
Enthusiast
All true, however WM also becomes a maintenance issue. If for any reason your spray fails your advanced timing causes detonation. Without FI and in order to get any significant increase in HP, I can't see how it would make sense with a Viper. Certainly not as an alternative to NOS.
Concur. If anyone has dyno sheets or timeslips showing gains using w/m on a N/A application (Viper) I'd really like to see them.
and the idea of dumping water in an engine doesnt right with me.
red snake, you drinking again ? we agree on something
Hey, we agreed once before. Remember when you admitted the Roe S/C is the best S/C?
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Phil was on a binge that night.....
I ordered a SCT tuner from ROE and talked to the guys there about noz. I was told with the year of my car, that the piston heads would burn up if you gave it too big of a shot. Bascally said if I am gonna redo the engine then go with noz if im not going to ill regret it in the end
Well, you can look at it this way: if you run N2O you're going to redo the engine one way or another, so may as well go with it
.If you're going to run N2O, I recommend doing a direct port injection setup. NX has a cool direct injection kit that goes inline with your fuel injectors. Haven't tried it myself or heard of anyone who has, but it would be worth trying out. That way you're guaranteed to get even distribution of N2O in each cylinder, which buys you added insurance and knowing your giving your engine no more N2O than it can handle. I'd also run a nitrogen push setup as well, which is the best way IMHO to regulate nitrous pressure.
On a side note, has anyone run more than a 200 shot on an all forged Viper motor? And how did it go? LOL!
There's a few 300hp kits on the forums. Ringgold was trying to sell me a Steel gray R/T10 with a doublebottle Nitrous kit.
I agree with all the "not on a n/a engine" comments. The water/mth is to cool the explosion and ALLOW the higher combustion chamber pressures of FI. Adding gas and wm doesn't do anything to the compression ration (combustion area ratio between piston TDC and BDC). 9.5 to 1 is too high of a compression ratio for much more than 7psi of boost. Adding w/m is like using race gas and helps prevent detonation. I've explained this in simple terms that are easy to understand?
Adding race gas to a 9.5-1 engine really wouldn't help much. If your engine was 14.5 to 1 ... then it would help significantly
Ted
I agree with all the "not on a n/a engine" comments. The water/mth is to cool the explosion and ALLOW the higher combustion chamber pressures of FI. Adding gas and wm doesn't do anything to the compression ration (combustion area ratio between piston TDC and BDC). 9.5 to 1 is too high of a compression ratio for much more than 7psi of boost. Adding w/m is like using race gas and helps prevent detonation. I've explained this in simple terms that are easy to understand?
Adding race gas to a 9.5-1 engine really wouldn't help much. If your engine was 14.5 to 1 ... then it would help significantly
Ted
I like Nitrous Oxide and have it on all my cars. 200hp '01 ACR, 250hp on my 440 Duster and a 100hp kit is installed on my 01 GTS. I expect to make 150rwhp when I finish adding the dedicated fuel system.
Had a 75 hp kit on my 400bhp 2.2 Turbo Daytona and removed it before I donated it to the High School drags program. Plan was to instal it at 100 hp on my Stealth R/T TT cars.
Had a 75 hp kit on my 400bhp 2.2 Turbo Daytona and removed it before I donated it to the High School drags program. Plan was to instal it at 100 hp on my Stealth R/T TT cars.
