Work Estimate?

Chipster

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Well, I have 3 sheared header bolts. I was attempted to retighten them and...:( It is the top 2 on the passenger side closest to the front and the top rear on the driver's side. I'm not going to do this myself, mainly because I just don't feel like it. Also, I want to get one of the transmission overhaul kits (about $300) and have my second gear grind taken care of. Lastly I just ordered a B&M short shifter. My question to you guys is, what do you think this will run me for removable of sheared bolts, installation of transmission overhaul kit and installation of short shifter? If there are any viper techs on here that can/want to chime in that would be awesome.

I had a sheared bolt removed on another car and that was only about $70 but due to the location of these bolts I'm not sure what to expect.
 

dave6666

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Care to share with everyone why the bolts broke? At least if you have an opinion or explanation to such?

Is there any exposed bolt left or did they break flush?

Tranny R&R is about 3.5 hours book I think. I have no idea on the rebuild kit. The shifter shouldn't be more than 30 minutes tops.
 

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You can do the B&M yourself pretty easy. SVS has a tutorial on how to do it yourself from the bottom and B&M has a manual for doing it from the top. If your transmission is being pulled for a rework, bolting it to the top would take you literally no time. You should do that yourself.

The tranny rebuild varies. Mine's in the shop right now for the same thing. A.R.T. charged me $500 each time they pulled my transmission (I think their rate is $110/hour), so if you can pull it yourself you'll save a bundle.

The first quote I got for labor (I have my own rebuild kit) was $800, the second was $200, barring any unforeseen kinks. Most places I found online quoted $1200-1400 plus shipping for a rebuild, including the parts. I think these jobs were just the basic parts (syncros, pads, etc.) included in the kit.
 
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Chipster

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Thanks guys. I know I could do it myself but I really just don't feel like it. As for why the bolts broke, I guess it could be a number of reasons. Some of the stockers that I did get out bent in the process. The cold weather probably didn't help. Who knows
 

jasontiff

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Quick update: With my own rebuild kit, they're replacing the fork pads and syncros in my transmission and sharpening a few teeth that have been "boogered up" (their quote, not mine :)). If I put the aftermarket bearings in that came with the kit, the whole thing would have to be reshimmed and would take 2-3 times as long to do, driving up labor costs. They said the Dodge shims are far superior to anything made overseas in those kits.

Tear down, sharpening a few teeth, putting on new pads, putting in new syncros and reassembly is running me $300 and will wind up taking less than a day to complete.
 

Sweet Ride

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Since it's impossible to have a flat rate time for broken bolt removal, you should expect to be charged straight time at whatever the dealer/installer charges. I believe the going rate for most places today is around $90-$115 an hour. You may be able to visit a local body shop or machine shop and get the labor down significantly ($40-$60/hr).

The time spent will also depend on weather the bolts broke flush or if there is some thread still sticking out. I would budget for at least an hour per bolt.

Tranny rebuilds are all over the map. Best bet is to call around to some local shops. Any respectable transmission shop should be able to rebuild the transmission. As for the B&M, I believe the shifter handle has to come off to get the tranny out anyway. A simple r&r while the transmission is out should be thrown in by the transmission shop.
 

bluesrt

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u better make shure the monkey working on ur car is not a monkey,thats a job that takes skill and some brains to get it right and not be a come back job.
 
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Chipster

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Yeah, I'm going to take it to my Viper tech. I trust him with everything, I just wanted to get an idea of what i'm looking at as I figured some people on here might have had some experience. I will at least be doing the bolts this time. If labor is under $1000 then i'll probably get everything done at once. ***** because it is supposed to be sunny and almost 60 both days this weekend haha
 

Sweet Ride

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Ouch! New heads just for some broken bolts? I'm not sure I buy that. I'd get a second opinion unless the heads are cracked.

I've heard good things about Greg Hood heads. I know there is another high performance head builder but I can't remember the name off hand.

If you wannna stick with stock, call Jon B, Woodhouse, or any of the other fine vendors on this site. You can always check Ebay too...
 
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Chipster

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I trust my viper tech. He even called and talked with Jason Heffner about it. Apparently it is just very difficult to access these and make sure the drill goes in straight. Still waiting on the quote for work. Most likely I'll just go stock. Jon B is getting me a price quote right now.
 

jasontiff

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Are Gen. I and Gen. II heads interchangeable? I bought a set of ported heads a while back and just took my stock ones off. If you're interested and they'll swap shoot me a PM. I'm not looking to get rich; they'll just sit on a shelf collecting dust if I don't move them.

The other high-end head builder does the Stryker heads, right? If you search for those on here I'm sure you'll find the builder. Is it JM?
 

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Chipster

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Thanks. Yeah, i had searched ebay earlier tonight and saw those and noticed that he is known in the VCA. Things aren't looking as bad as I thought so far so that's good. If i get new stock heads and gaskets, it looks like that will run me $4150 so used might be the way to go.
 

Sweet Ride

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Apparently it is just very difficult to access these and make sure the drill goes in straight.

Not trying to discredit anyone but if the heads are coming off anyway they should be able to be locked down in a drill press and the bolts should be able to be drilled out. It just seems like a machine shop should be able to do this work.

:dunno:
 
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Chipster

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I believe it is a matter of stripped threads too. Even the bolts that are still in there are not wanting to come out without breaking off. I will check into that as well.
 

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for refernce I just had my trans pulled to replace a slave cylinder and total cost in labor was about 250. So slightlybover two hours to pull and reinstall trans. This was done by a very good viper tech in Virginia
 

SquadX

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Per aztrv post on the bolt broke in cam. That was me and the cost was 150. The treads were redone and some other process, would have to look at work order but my cam was pulled and taken to them. To be honest I would not be surprised if you have to pull your engine for this to be done. The don't think a hand held tool can do the job especially in such a tight space. Pm me with your number to discuss.
 
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Chipster

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So they don't think I need new heads BUT they need to take the heads off to get to the bolts and they expect removing the bolts to be 500-600 so I went ahead and bought that used set of heads on ebay for $560 shipped. With that, all the new gaskets and labor, it's going to run about $2300 I think. ****ty, but at least it will be fixed!! Thanks for all the feedback fellas
 

dave6666

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for refernce I just had my trans pulled to replace a slave cylinder and total cost in labor was about 250. So slightlybover two hours to pull and reinstall trans. This was done by a very good viper tech in Virginia

Tranny R&R in a little over 2 hours is a pretty brisk pace. :omg:

I think "book" is 3 or 3.5 hours.

Dave is 2 weeks including beer runs :beer: :lmao:
 

bluesrt

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broke header bolts are due to not keeping them tight at first install,like spokes on a bike,if u keep on themwhen new,first 2 or 3 times,keep them in line tork,they will never come loose again,abandon them from new,and not keep them re-torked,u will chase them till they break.no one will ever tell u this,but this is true to a point in headers,keep them tweaked constintly when new(every 2 hours of use intil u cant keep tweaking them)and u will see better results.headers are not so easy though.have ur tech put a very small amount of red loc-tight on the bolt to install..super high maintain for awhile,then ur out of the woods.they break when they come loose after time and time again from friction.keep them tight from new,baby sit them,they will stay tight..
 

dave6666

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broke header bolts are due to not keeping them tight at first install,like spokes on a bike,if u keep on themwhen new,first 2 or 3 times,keep them in line tork,they will never come loose again,abandon them from new,and not keep them re-torked,u will chase them till they break.no one will ever tell u this,but this is true to a point in headers,keep them tweaked constintly when new(every 2 hours of use intil u cant keep tweaking them)and u will see better results.headers are not so easy though.have ur tech put a very small amount of red loc-tight on the bolt to install..super high maintain for awhile,then ur out of the woods.they break when they come loose after time and time again from friction.keep them tight from new,baby sit them,they will stay tight..

Wow. After 35 years of wrenching on cars and close to 30 years of industrial maintenance I've never heard that bolts coming loose contributes to breakage. Nor would I put Loctite on a bolt going into an aluminum head, nor would I expect it to last at head temperatures.

Are your sources of that info from personal experience?

And um, your post made spell checker dizzy. :D
 

bluesrt

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yes my friend it is from exsperience,not the best speller but i do know whats up!its comon sense if u are a vet of mechanical knowledge,but some can wrench a lifetime a still not get it,no hard feelins.kind of like a dumb doctor and a smart doc.:)red loc-tight is for exteme heat,loose bolts break from friction.and i said a small amount of red.
 
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