It's some sort of textured soft-touch coating, and it isn't very durable. It can be pulled and re-coated, but it isn't the most fun piece to wrestle out of the car. Doable, but not fun.
Same question, and one more: do you need to modify the heads for whatever torque limiting fasteners are used, or can you get away with unmodified Gen 4 heads and careful tightening?
The only cars that I've seen with tinted windshields were show cars (or at least used primarily for that purpose). I'd think it would generate a lot of interest from the cops, not that a Viper doesn't already do that. That would make it not worth it to me.
It should move some, unless solid motor and transmission mounts are used.
It should shift a fair amount with rubber mounts, and a bit less with poly (probably about half in my experience).
Start with the easy stuff...bleed the clutch fluid first, change the transmission fluid next if that hasn't been done in a while.
One of the biggest culprits of hard WOT shifting is the clutch not fully disengaging...aftermarket clutches seem to have this problem more than OEM ones do...
Why? Because it has functional air conditioning, cruise control, and government mandated traction/stability control?
The magazine guys are still all afraid to drive it...sounds like they kept the Viper's soul to me.
I don't think it would matter to be honest...I think as soon as you crack the bleeder screw, fluid comes out the end as well as around the threads, hence why you get so much fluid dripping out the bottom of the bell housing.
At least that's been my experience.
I've used Ate Typ 200 DOT 4 fluid in the past, but if Motul 600 is available at motorcycle shops locally, I might try that instead since I always have to order the Ate fluid.
As has already been stated, the issue is the tire size...manufacturers just don't make all season or winter tires in sizes that you see on a Viper (the 345 rears especially). Summer rubber compounds get hard and slick at anything below about 40-50 degrees, so that will be your limiting factor...
I installed what's in my signature block, and ran new speaker wires since it wasn't too difficult. The Kenwood amp I used fits under the passenger seat in place of the factory amp.
I understand what you are talking about here, and that's exactly what I'm trying to say (again, my opinion only): people aren't really looking for a standalone option (at least not me). It just sucks compared to being able to harness the computing power (and sensors) already on board. The...
Priced similarly? Of course not, but at the same time, I'd at least hope it is in the same ball park. To me, $4k-$5k isn't in the same ball park. That's more along the lines of an order of magnitude different.
Keep in mind that I don't have any intent to put a blower/turbo/nitrous on my Gen 4, so I'm likely not your intended market.
That said, to me, my ceiling is the price of the Mopar PCM + install, which is already too high. I think people really want to be able to use the power that already...
I'll take a stab at some of these:
- I prefer the 2006+ coupe to the convertible soft-top, are there any other major differences between the years?
2006 was the first year for the coupe in the SRT-10, and generally they command a higher price (lower supply). There were no 2007 cars, so...
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