Check the parking brake pads...the inners tend to wear much faster than the outers, so make sure you still have some pad left. The parking brake mechanism is self-adjusting, so try pulling the handle a few times to see if that helps.
Something's getting lost in translation here.
So here's what I'm trying to say:
1. Yes, the stripes on a Viper as they come from the factory are painted on. They are NOT painted on how you would expect, however. They are painted directly over top of the existing paint/clear, and then...
Re-read the thread...Prefix paints the stripes OVER the existing paint, and clears only the stripes, creating an edge to them that can easily be felt and could potentially be damaged by a machine polisher. They feel just like a vinyl stripe would, only it is paint/clear. That's why I say tape...
To get to 150, the Gen 5 has to shift into 5th...that shift takes time, and puts you in overdrive, which isn't the best gear for pulling. The Gen 4 could stay in 4th gear to get to 150.
Did they do an engine dyno by any chance? I'd be curious to see how much power you are putting down with your mods...your trap speed is already very nice. Do you remember what the DA was when you ran it?
2010s also command a premium price, or at least it seems to be that way when looking at '08-'10 cars. If you want the 2010 5th gear ratio, the TR-6060 5th/6th gear can be altered, even independently if you only want to change 5th while maintaining the long 6th. Parts and labor I was quoted...
When checking the oil, I warm the engine up to full operating temp, shut it off, pull the dipstick, and set it aside for about 10-15 minutes or so. That lets the oil in the drain tube drain back to the pan. At that point, you can insert the dipstick fully and pull it back out to check the...
That'd be a tough one...IMO, the H-Spoke wheels are some of the least desirable out there, and are much heavier than the 6-spokes. You might have luck unloading them to the Gen I/II crowd since Gen III/IV wheels tend to look pretty good on those, and then you could buy some 6-spokes outright.
Never been a huge Zaino fan...it was all the rage back in the early 2000s when I tried it, but I quickly learned that surface prep was far more important than the last step product used. It still has a cult-like following, but I just don't see the draw to it personally.
Do you know of any somewhat decent IR cameras that are <$1k? I'd love to have one of those Flukes to play around with, but I can't justify spending that kinda coin on an IR camera.
As for sill heat, I've been reminded on a couple of occassions how hot they get, but it never leaves a mark...
I see your point, and you can approach this however you wish. I'll be waiting right here to be proven wrong. I'll also be right here to say "I told you so" when nothing comes of it.
Okay...prove that the rear upright toe link connection point is a problem. All you have at this point is anecdotal evidence from an internet forum. There are safety issues, and then there are perceived safety issues. I learned this lesson the hard way trying to deal with a defect on my '02...
If you really want to know how often you need to change your oil, you can always send a sample off to be analyzed (I've used Blackstone in the past) - they can tell you how much of the additive package remains, and what's floating around in the oil. Every 6 months sounds a bit excessive, but...
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