2010 Final edition race car build

Viperizer

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Hi, Looking for input on building new race car...My first questions are related to wiring ...

#1 Do I really need to put all this wire back in the car? It weights over 30 pounds..Is there such thing as a racing harness, or does the factory just roll it in a ball in the ACR-X? I do know that I need to keep the Gateway and BCM to make the car run...unless someone knows a trick??

#2 The only thing I want to retian is the ABS, everything else can go...I guess I could just cut out what I dont need?

# 3 Do I have to keep the ignition switch, is it coded to the Gateway? I would rather wire the car so that when the master Kill is off...flip a ignition switch and push the start button...hoping I don't need to keep factory key etc..

Thanks in advance for any help!!

I have a bunch more questions...but have to start somewhere
 

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MTGTS

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Cutting that up without knowing EXACTLY what your doing will lead to TONS of headaches. I would get in touch with Dan @ Viper Specialty. Final GTS is his screen name.
 

VIPER GTSR 91

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You have got a lot on your hands to really make it a track/race car. I would PM Tim the treasurer I believe with our Houston VCA as he has recently done this. A search will show all he did with photos etc. He has all the answers for this job Im sure.
 

F8L SNK

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Viperizer,

There are certain things that can be cut out and some that can't. I modified my interior harness. I would not go through the trouble to modify the entire car harness. You can modify the harness to allow to take out the key but it really isn't worth it. I removed a lot of the interior harness and kept only the gateway wiring and mounted it where the passenger air bag was. I have some pictures of this mounting but not the shorter harness. As for modifying the entire car wiring, not worth it in my opinion. I'm sure you may want more explanation so feel free to PM me or call me. Most anything is possible, but the engineers were pretty good on some things like the gateway.

Tim
 
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Viperizer

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Hi Tim, Thanks for your input..I was thinking the same thing..mount the BCM where the pass side air bag was..I was also thinking just leave the key in the on position and throwing back in the area where the duck work was..I think it would be safe to cut out all the air bag, audio etc..do you agree? Your feelings are under the hood the effort to unwrap cut out Air bag..airconditioning...headlights etc..and then re-wrap..not worth the work for the weight savings?
I have another question..I can't tell by your avatar pic...did you keep your 19" rear tires? I want to run Hoosiers..they dont make a 19 "yet" ..I was thinking 18's all the way around..your thoughts?

Blk and blu...the acr-x and the comp coupes were out of my price range...had to build my own.

I ordered a wing and splitter and the brake cooling kit from Steve at Vipair..got the Canards too..also got the lexan rear window...
I am open to any suggestions you have as far as other perfomance ideas...I am thinking 2 piece rotors...stoptech front rotors...Headers...Exhaust...Mopar PCM...shocks..sway bar bushings.. tranny/rear end cooler...any other suggestions would be greatly appericated!

Thanks!!!!!
 

F8L SNK

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Viperizer,

I went 18" all around. I am still debating on the 19" for the rear but we'll see.
The R100 tires are way better than the R6's so I need more time to test.

The brake ducts make a good difference. I did cut out all air bag and radio stuff. Pretty easy as the wires are all color coded and easy to figure out in my opinion.

Good luck and let me know if I can help.

Tim
Hi Tim, Thanks for your input..I was thinking the same thing..mount the BCM where the pass side air bag was..I was also thinking just leave the key in the on position and throwing back in the area where the duck work was..I think it would be safe to cut out all the air bag, audio etc..do you agree? Your feelings are under the hood the effort to unwrap cut out Air bag..airconditioning...headlights etc..and then re-wrap..not worth the work for the weight savings?
I have another question..I can't tell by your avatar pic...did you keep your 19" rear tires? I want to run Hoosiers..they dont make a 19 "yet" ..I was thinking 18's all the way around..your thoughts?

Blk and blu...the acr-x and the comp coupes were out of my price range...had to build my own.

I ordered a wing and splitter and the brake cooling kit from Steve at Vipair..got the Canards too..also got the lexan rear window...
I am open to any suggestions you have as far as other perfomance ideas...I am thinking 2 piece rotors...stoptech front rotors...Headers...Exhaust...Mopar PCM...shocks..sway bar bushings.. tranny/rear end cooler...any other suggestions would be greatly appericated!

Thanks!!!!!
 

F8L SNK

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BTW,

Trans and Diff Coolers are always a good idea if you run extended sessions or back to back sessions. The Brembo (ACR X) rotors are a better idea but require different pads and the brake lines have to be changed for the brake ducts FYI. I pulled the A/C and all associated hardware, don't forget an underdrive pulley to keep the water pump from overspeeding.

Headers, YES, wrapped, NO. Just wrap the brake lines. (headers are close)

Mopar PCM YES!!

Sway bar bushings, optional but good idea.

Hi Tim, Thanks for your input..I was thinking the same thing..mount the BCM where the pass side air bag was..I was also thinking just leave the key in the on position and throwing back in the area where the duck work was..I think it would be safe to cut out all the air bag, audio etc..do you agree? Your feelings are under the hood the effort to unwrap cut out Air bag..airconditioning...headlights etc..and then re-wrap..not worth the work for the weight savings?
I have another question..I can't tell by your avatar pic...did you keep your 19" rear tires? I want to run Hoosiers..they dont make a 19 "yet" ..I was thinking 18's all the way around..your thoughts?

Blk and blu...the acr-x and the comp coupes were out of my price range...had to build my own.

I ordered a wing and splitter and the brake cooling kit from Steve at Vipair..got the Canards too..also got the lexan rear window...
I am open to any suggestions you have as far as other perfomance ideas...I am thinking 2 piece rotors...stoptech front rotors...Headers...Exhaust...Mopar PCM...shocks..sway bar bushings.. tranny/rear end cooler...any other suggestions would be greatly appericated!

Thanks!!!!!
 
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Viperizer

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Thanks Tim! I will keep you posted as my project comes along..cant wait to run the car...I have out grown my GTS..I might bug you for some vendor suggestions if you don't mind...BTW you dont happen to have the belt part number you used with out the A/C and the underdrive.
Also, did you wire the rad fans direct? or just let the factory relays and such do their job?

Thanks...nice to talk to someone that has done this before!

Ron
 

F8L SNK

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I let the factory relays do their job. The engineers suggested not only the under drive pulley but also a high pressure radiator car. 1-2 lbs more than what you have. They also told me to change it yearly FYI.

The belt is a Dayco Polyrib #7PK1660
 
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Viperizer

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Thanks Tim,

That will save me a pile of trips to the parts store...nowdays no one at the part store can match anything up or has a clue what a part# means...Just the year and model...LOL...sure you have been there before...

I am working on installing this now...car was crashed with only 38 miles....someone decided to try to jump it like in Dukes of Hazzard...didnt land so well..came down on the drivers front...bent up the control arm mounting areas, lucky the control arms broke before it got too serious...looked like someone had fun for a few miles anyway...

Thanks!!!

Ron
 

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Viper Specialty

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Cutting that up without knowing EXACTLY what your doing will lead to TONS of headaches. I would get in touch with Dan @ Viper Specialty. Final GTS is his screen name.

THIS. If you dont know what you are doing, you are better off to not touch that harness and just put it back together the way it is supposed to be. These are Bus System cars, cut the wrong wire and nothing will work! Multiple modules throughout the car are needed for any single task. You cant just "remove things" and expect the rest to work.

If you are building a race car, you are far better off to eliminate ALL of the factory body/engine control, wiring, etc, and building a new harness based on a standalone controller with a new digital dashboard.... but you surely dont want the bill for doing that type of work.

Building a "car to race" is one thing, but building a REAL "race car" is another. You need to decide which direction you really want to go. Don't half-ass your way through this, or you will end up with a useless car. Either put the harness and modules back together and cut eight elsewhere, or open your wallet to do it right from scratch. There is nothing in between.
 
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Viperizer

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Hi...Final ...Thanks for your reply! This is exactly what I am looking for...I would pay just about anything for the digital dash and professional wiring..thats what all of my race cars have...excluding my Viper GTS...( and i thought this SRT too, until you found me) all of my other cars have awesome systems by Racepak...and one is from AIM sports... I get wonderful graphs...shock inputs, engine inputs..almost anything i want...I have talked to everyone I know that makes these systems...no one seems to have it for me...where do I buy it for my Viper? Thanks!!!!!
 

Viper Specialty

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Hi...Final ...Thanks for your reply! This is exactly what I am looking for...I would pay just about anything for the digital dash and professional wiring..thats what all of my race cars have...excluding my Viper GTS...( and i thought this SRT too, until you found me) all of my other cars have awesome systems by Racepak...and one is from AIM sports... I get wonderful graphs...shock inputs, engine inputs..almost anything i want...I have talked to everyone I know that makes these systems...no one seems to have it for me...where do I buy it for my Viper? Thanks!!!!!

I plead the 5th. :D

I am not currently a vendor of this website so I cannot say anymore on here.
 
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Viperizer

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I was sort of thinking that was what was going to happen ..all the good stuff is secrets....guess I will have to stick with the half ass method?
 
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repiv

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umm, i think dan meant he does this type work, he's not a vca vendor, so he can't say he does. i'd call him
 
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Viperizer

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Thanks! Yeah, I have been trading emails with Dan on a few subjects...seems I have found the right guy the wiring topic....just need to decide how deep I want to go into this project.. heck of a nice guy too!
 
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Viperizer

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Anyone out there know about the pipes used in the frames...measures as if its Moly...can't believe the factory spend the extra dollars on anything but Seamless Carbon..planning on Tigging it..wanta make sure I use the corrrect filler...anyone know for sure?
Thanks!!
DSC03891.JPG
 

Griffin1001

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Anyone out there know about the pipes used in the frames...measures as if its Moly...can't believe the factory spend the extra dollars on anything but Seamless Carbon..planning on Tigging it..wanta make sure I use the corrrect filler...anyone know for sure?
Thanks!!
DSC03891.JPG

I have not seen any other bar on these cars that is moly. Most is not even seamless. Either way if you are tigging I would use ER70S2 or 6. Are you planning to section the round tube?

BTW, I dig all the Juniot Dragster stuff. I am dying to build one for my daughter.:)
 
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Viperizer

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Hi Grif...thanks ..I noticed a seam the other day when I was on a creeper looking up ..saw it on the inside of the pipe..I slid a 6" piece of 1 - 1/8 moly inside the round tubes..have left about a 1/16 gap between right and left sections...seems to be working out great....just tig that gap and I should have a nice undected repair..only issue is I wanted to slide a 2 x 3 box inside the lower frame down near the foot box...issue is I can't engage the right to left pipes and the front to back square at the same time..so I am going to have to box the outside of the 2 x 3 I guess...
Junior business is sort of a retirement hobby for me...lots of fun.....let me know if you want help with one..great sport for the kids...fast little devils too...the expert class car will actually top a viper in the 1/8mile!
Thanks!!
 

Griffin1001

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Hi Grif...thanks ..I noticed a seam the other day when I was on a creeper looking up ..saw it on the inside of the pipe..I slid a 6" piece of 1 - 1/8 moly inside the round tubes..have left about a 1/16 gap between right and left sections...seems to be working out great....just tig that gap and I should have a nice undected repair..only issue is I wanted to slide a 2 x 3 box inside the lower frame down near the foot box...issue is I can't engage the right to left pipes and the front to back square at the same time..so I am going to have to box the outside of the 2 x 3 I guess...
Junior business is sort of a retirement hobby for me...lots of fun.....let me know if you want help with one..great sport for the kids...fast little devils too...the expert class car will actually top a viper in the 1/8mile!
Thanks!!

On the square tube, make your sleeve and cut a slit in the side of the frame about 3" long on both halves being joined. Put a tab on the side of that sleeve near one end. Slide the sleeve in, square up your frame addition and use the tab to slide it back. Tack it in place and grind that tab down smooth. You can weld it all up and smooth it out to get that look and strength you are looking for. Make sense?

I would like to do one of those Juniors. I will build my own chassis, but will need all the other stuff. I use to be in Cart racing as well. I own a chassis shop, so my daughter might be dissapointed if I bought a whole car. :) I am building a couple cars for another member on here. (treesnake)
 
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Viperizer

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OK..I guess this is what seperates the men from the boys...you have made my day! I thought about this and thought about it...why couldn't I come up with it?

I understand 100%...This way I am just welding up my butt cut and the slit in the frame rails..still put a couple rosettes in it too...right?

I saw trees pics..very nice work..at first I thought mike was doing the work..I was like...damn this guy is really a talented hobbiest.....then he told me it was you...great looking project! Going to be a nice car...I am guessing Mike will run it in Top Sportsman...will be a lot of fun with that wheelbase!!!

On the Juniors, I have detialed drawings on the Mike Bos (who I am sure you know of) cars we sell...Mike is tops in the Dragster Business....When your ready I will can supply drawing and measurements.

Thanks brother! I owe ya one!!!

Ron

On the square tube, make your sleeve and cut a slit in the side of the frame about 3" long on both halves being joined. Put a tab on the side of that sleeve near one end. Slide the sleeve in, square up your frame addition and use the tab to slide it back. Tack it in place and grind that tab down smooth. You can weld it all up and smooth it out to get that look and strength you are looking for. Make sense?

I would like to do one of those Juniors. I will build my own chassis, but will need all the other stuff. I use to be in Cart racing as well. I own a chassis shop, so my daughter might be dissapointed if I bought a whole car. :) I am building a couple cars for another member on here. (treesnake)
 

treesnake

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OK..I guess this is what seperates the men from the boys...you have made my day! I thought about this and thought about it...why couldn't I come up with it?

I understand 100%...This way I am just welding up my butt cut and the slit in the frame rails..still put a couple rosettes in it too...right?

I saw trees pics..very nice work..at first I thought mike was doing the work..I was like...damn this guy is really a talented hobbiest.....then he told me it was you...great looking project! Going to be a nice car...I am guessing Mike will run it in Top Sportsman...will be a lot of fun with that wheelbase!!!

On the Juniors, I have detialed drawings on the Mike Bos (who I am sure you know of) cars we sell...Mike is tops in the Dragster Business....When your ready I will can supply drawing and measurements.

Thanks brother! I owe ya one!!!

Ron

Good deal Ron.
I told ya' he was good....;)

I'm going to the shop today to check progress, I'll shoot ya' some pics.....:D
 

Griffin1001

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Yes Ron, you still want to do a couple rossette welds as well.

I will have to get ahold of you on that junior stuff and see about some measurements.

Thanks,
Scott
 
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Viperizer

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Got myself some new Forgelines...Perfect Match on the Powercoat!

DSC03941.JPG
 
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Viperizer

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Best yet..got the replacement frame cut fitted ..couple quick lazer checks on alignment, couple measurements with the Tram...and weld her in.

Thing was a Biotch to disect.

DSC03946.JPG
 

F8L SNK

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Lookin Great! Very nice project, can't wait to see the final product. the wheels look great too!
 

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