KenH
Enthusiast
I live in the Portland area and would be willing to stop by if you'd like.
--- Ken
AEM Engine Management System New Release
- Thread starter Chris B
- Start date
I live in the Portland area and would be willing to stop by if you'd like.
--- Ken
Ken,
It would be great to have you stop by. We'd love to meet you. Most of our service techs work in the evenings and our parts department is open until 6pm. Our address is 12905 NE Airport Way, Portland, OR 97230. I have a meeting from 1:00-3:00pm. Anytime after that would be great. Call me at (503) 256-5600.
Here is a picture of the knock sensor for the twin turbo Supra. As you can see if there's a threaded hole for it, installation is very simple. In the 2nd picture you can see where they located the knock sensors.
It would be the best to find a location for sensors such as these to simply screw in. It would make installation far easier. I can get sensors of varying pitches and thread diameters.
Take care,
Chris.
It would be great to have you stop by. We'd love to meet you. Most of our service techs work in the evenings and our parts department is open until 6pm. Our address is 12905 NE Airport Way, Portland, OR 97230. I have a meeting from 1:00-3:00pm. Anytime after that would be great. Call me at (503) 256-5600.
Here is a picture of the knock sensor for the twin turbo Supra. As you can see if there's a threaded hole for it, installation is very simple. In the 2nd picture you can see where they located the knock sensors.
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
It would be the best to find a location for sensors such as these to simply screw in. It would make installation far easier. I can get sensors of varying pitches and thread diameters.
Take care,
Chris.
BoostedV10
Enthusiast
Quick question
Chris,
What brand sensor are you guys using in that picture? Have you ever looked into the 3 wire ones from Bosch? They are really convenient because they are doughnut shaped and you simply run a small bolt down the center. Therefore you have far grater flexibility where they get placed on an engine. Didn’t know if it was something you guys have looked into. Just wondering.
Chris,
What brand sensor are you guys using in that picture? Have you ever looked into the 3 wire ones from Bosch? They are really convenient because they are doughnut shaped and you simply run a small bolt down the center. Therefore you have far grater flexibility where they get placed on an engine. Didn’t know if it was something you guys have looked into. Just wondering.
Re: Quick question
The knock sensor from a Subaru is quite a convenient size, and I imagine that a good place might be the coil pack front mounting bolt which is fairly central and part of the block. Unfortunately the imperial bolt is slightly too large to fit through the sensor, however having seen the sensor filed out slightly to fit (on **** GTS ) it didn't seem to impair its function at all. Any thoughts as to this position for a single sensor?
The knock sensor from a Subaru is quite a convenient size, and I imagine that a good place might be the coil pack front mounting bolt which is fairly central and part of the block. Unfortunately the imperial bolt is slightly too large to fit through the sensor, however having seen the sensor filed out slightly to fit (on **** GTS ) it didn't seem to impair its function at all. Any thoughts as to this position for a single sensor?
Doug Supercharged Vipers
Enthusiast
Re: Quick question
Hello Friends -
I've had lots of email and phone calls regarding the subject matter on Knock Sensors. So, here's a little information pursuant to these questions and I hope it will be somewhat useful
.
Utilizing "Knock Sensors" has been a crucial part of our tuning process by DLM for years. There's nothing extremely sophisticated about knock sensors by themselves. It's how you utilize them to work for you that makes them most beneficial.
Inside the knock sensor is a "piezoelectric element." Piezoelectric elements generate a voltage when pressure or a vibration is applied to them. The piezoelectric element in the knock sensor is tuned to the engine knock frequency. Engine knock occurs within a specific frequency range. The knock sensor, located in the eng block, cyl head, or intake manifold is tuned to detect that frequency. The vibrations from engine knocking vibrate the piezoelectric element generating a voltage; the optimal point at which the ignition system ignites the Air/Fuel mixture will be just before pinging occurs, it would appear inevitable that at certain times and under certain conditions knock (detonation) will occur. The voltage output from the Knock Sensor is highest at this time. The best way to test a knock sensor (if an oscilloscope is available) is to remove the knock sensor from the engine and to tap it with a screwdriver, the resultant waveform can be graphed with the oscilloscope. For non dataloging purposes, a typical test light referenced from the ground input could be utilized. Although, the ground input may not be present depending on the circuit available. -1-
A knock sensor is fitted to some management systems, the sensor (once again, a piezoelectrical device) when coupled with the Electronic Control Modules (ECM), can identify when knock occurs and retard the ignition timing accordingly. The frequency of knocking (pinging) is approximately 15 kHz. As the response of the sensor is VERY FAST an appropriate time scale must be set, in the case of the example waveform 0 - 500 ms and a 0 - 5 volt scale. Our ELECTRONIC CONTROL METER analyzes the sounds, distinguishing engine knock from other engine sounds such as blower, valve train, accessory drives and exhaust system; the result is a Knock Meter reading when engine knock occurs. We reference the 0 - 5 volt output from the electronic control meter and convert it to a usable signal to retard ignition timing. How it's done will be explained in the near future. -2-
The best location for the knock sensors we've found so far is NOT in the water jackets for the Viper engine. However, water carries the acoustics significantly well but amplifies the knock signal beyond the realm of calibration for reduction of excessive noise. Our first choice for the sensor mounting location is around the center of the engine or around the water neck. You do not need to internally mount the knock sensors in the engine block water/cooling passages and I don't recommend that (professionally speaking of course), just around water passages "outside" the engine block. A homemade bracket will suffice quite well for experimenting with your external sensor locations.
Tuning by way of Air / Fuel does NOT determine on it's own whether a engine will detonate.
I've seen perfect a/f mapping and have an engine emanate an excessive amount of "spark knock" while monitoring by way of data acquisition.
And here's the heart breaking news ... In the event we all start tuning with knock sensors to be reference by, you'll see a lot high horsepower cars tapering off. By all means, knock sensor monitoring is NOT the only way to properly tune (other onboard systems should be monitored as well), just another form of good tuning practice.
Thanks for reading
!
Doug
Footnotes
-1- www.autoshop101.com/forms/h38.pdf
-2- www.picotech.com/auto/waveforms/knock_sensor.html
Hello Friends -
I've had lots of email and phone calls regarding the subject matter on Knock Sensors. So, here's a little information pursuant to these questions and I hope it will be somewhat useful
.Utilizing "Knock Sensors" has been a crucial part of our tuning process by DLM for years. There's nothing extremely sophisticated about knock sensors by themselves. It's how you utilize them to work for you that makes them most beneficial.
Inside the knock sensor is a "piezoelectric element." Piezoelectric elements generate a voltage when pressure or a vibration is applied to them. The piezoelectric element in the knock sensor is tuned to the engine knock frequency. Engine knock occurs within a specific frequency range. The knock sensor, located in the eng block, cyl head, or intake manifold is tuned to detect that frequency. The vibrations from engine knocking vibrate the piezoelectric element generating a voltage; the optimal point at which the ignition system ignites the Air/Fuel mixture will be just before pinging occurs, it would appear inevitable that at certain times and under certain conditions knock (detonation) will occur. The voltage output from the Knock Sensor is highest at this time. The best way to test a knock sensor (if an oscilloscope is available) is to remove the knock sensor from the engine and to tap it with a screwdriver, the resultant waveform can be graphed with the oscilloscope. For non dataloging purposes, a typical test light referenced from the ground input could be utilized. Although, the ground input may not be present depending on the circuit available. -1-
A knock sensor is fitted to some management systems, the sensor (once again, a piezoelectrical device) when coupled with the Electronic Control Modules (ECM), can identify when knock occurs and retard the ignition timing accordingly. The frequency of knocking (pinging) is approximately 15 kHz. As the response of the sensor is VERY FAST an appropriate time scale must be set, in the case of the example waveform 0 - 500 ms and a 0 - 5 volt scale. Our ELECTRONIC CONTROL METER analyzes the sounds, distinguishing engine knock from other engine sounds such as blower, valve train, accessory drives and exhaust system; the result is a Knock Meter reading when engine knock occurs. We reference the 0 - 5 volt output from the electronic control meter and convert it to a usable signal to retard ignition timing. How it's done will be explained in the near future. -2-
The best location for the knock sensors we've found so far is NOT in the water jackets for the Viper engine. However, water carries the acoustics significantly well but amplifies the knock signal beyond the realm of calibration for reduction of excessive noise. Our first choice for the sensor mounting location is around the center of the engine or around the water neck. You do not need to internally mount the knock sensors in the engine block water/cooling passages and I don't recommend that (professionally speaking of course), just around water passages "outside" the engine block. A homemade bracket will suffice quite well for experimenting with your external sensor locations.
Tuning by way of Air / Fuel does NOT determine on it's own whether a engine will detonate.
I've seen perfect a/f mapping and have an engine emanate an excessive amount of "spark knock" while monitoring by way of data acquisition.
And here's the heart breaking news
... In the event we all start tuning with knock sensors to be reference by, you'll see a lot high horsepower cars tapering off. By all means, knock sensor monitoring is NOT the only way to properly tune (other onboard systems should be monitored as well), just another form of good tuning practice. Thanks for reading
!Doug
Footnotes
-1- www.autoshop101.com/forms/h38.pdf
-2- www.picotech.com/auto/waveforms/knock_sensor.html
Gerald
Enthusiast
Re: Quick question
pushing all the HP thru stock headers, stock cats, no overheating issues and now all along he's using knock sensors. What else do you have up your sleeve?
Maybe I can hit 100k on my stock internal engine?
Good read indeed. Good to know..
Gerald
pushing all the HP thru stock headers, stock cats, no overheating issues and now all along he's using knock sensors. What else do you have up your sleeve?
Maybe I can hit 100k on my stock internal engine?
Good read indeed. Good to know..
Gerald
1TONY1
Enthusiast
Re: Quick question
From da man himself. thanks for the info Doug.
From da man himself. thanks for the info Doug.
BoostedV10
Enthusiast
Re: Quick question
I second that "thanks for the info Doug”.... I hope that most people would find it to be educational... I was just commenting on the style of sensor to be used. I must thank you for taking the opportunity to clarify the correct use and limitations of a knock sensor.
I second that "thanks for the info Doug”.... I hope that most people would find it to be educational... I was just commenting on the style of sensor to be used. I must thank you for taking the opportunity to clarify the correct use and limitations of a knock sensor.
Re: Quick question
Doug... thanks for the post.
The AEM adds another huge enhancement to that however. You were speaking about frequencies that determine knock, however you didn't mention the amplitude of the signal as it relates to RPM.
The AEM EMS filters for the knock frequencies already, but as RPM goes up, the amplitude of those signals increases drastically. It's this amplitude that describes the magnitude of the pre-ignition or whether the pre-ignition even exists. This is absolutely critical in the analysis of pre-ignition because without mapping it against engine rpm you cannot determine whether it occured.
To even more accurately detect knock we use a knock noise table in the AEM that charts knock sensor voltage as it relates to rpm. It goes from a signal of around .5V at low rpm to well over 4V at the higher rpms. Here's an example of the knock noise table that's included in the base map from AEM.
Anytime a knock frequency exists at an amplitude over the standard amplitude that the engine generates on it's own (defined by this knock noise table), the AEM determines the amount of knock and it will inject extra fuel and pull out timing in a manner that you specify based on the severity. It will also show up on that datalogs which will allow you to tune ignition timing exactly.
We use this method to achieve over 1,000rwhp in 183 cubic inch Supra motors. Every degree of timing makes a dramatic change in power, and we're able to set timing exactly at every rpm for the gas that we're running.
Did you guys know that you can advance timing from peak torque all the way to red-line? Peak torque will typically have the lowest timing setting, from there we usually pick up 2-3 degrees of timing from to redline which adds quite a bit of power you wouldn't have otherwise known you had.
Here's Ken's Viper that came in yesterday. A very sweet ride.
I snapped some pictures of underneath and we came up with a few locations for the knock sensors. I'm not sure about the water jacket location by what Doug said. Those are 15mm in diameter, and here's a picture of one of them. There are 2 on each side.
Here's another shot of the motor.
After much thought, Sean and I think the best location may be the motor mount bolts that hold the motor mount to the block. It would be a different kind of knock sensor that Doug and one of our tech's here suggested. Those are very common knock sensors and are used in Land Rovers and other cars, so we could certainly use them in our testing.
We will have a prototype Viper EMS here very shortly and will begin using it in conjunction with another Viper Performance Shop which we will mention shortly.
Thanks again Ken for bringing your car in. You may want to mention how your first dyno pull went.
Take care,
Chris.
Doug... thanks for the post.
The AEM adds another huge enhancement to that however. You were speaking about frequencies that determine knock, however you didn't mention the amplitude of the signal as it relates to RPM.
The AEM EMS filters for the knock frequencies already, but as RPM goes up, the amplitude of those signals increases drastically. It's this amplitude that describes the magnitude of the pre-ignition or whether the pre-ignition even exists. This is absolutely critical in the analysis of pre-ignition because without mapping it against engine rpm you cannot determine whether it occured.
To even more accurately detect knock we use a knock noise table in the AEM that charts knock sensor voltage as it relates to rpm. It goes from a signal of around .5V at low rpm to well over 4V at the higher rpms. Here's an example of the knock noise table that's included in the base map from AEM.
You must be registered for see images
Anytime a knock frequency exists at an amplitude over the standard amplitude that the engine generates on it's own (defined by this knock noise table), the AEM determines the amount of knock and it will inject extra fuel and pull out timing in a manner that you specify based on the severity. It will also show up on that datalogs which will allow you to tune ignition timing exactly.
We use this method to achieve over 1,000rwhp in 183 cubic inch Supra motors. Every degree of timing makes a dramatic change in power, and we're able to set timing exactly at every rpm for the gas that we're running.
Did you guys know that you can advance timing from peak torque all the way to red-line? Peak torque will typically have the lowest timing setting, from there we usually pick up 2-3 degrees of timing from to redline which adds quite a bit of power you wouldn't have otherwise known you had.
Here's Ken's Viper that came in yesterday. A very sweet ride.
You must be registered for see images
I snapped some pictures of underneath and we came up with a few locations for the knock sensors. I'm not sure about the water jacket location by what Doug said. Those are 15mm in diameter, and here's a picture of one of them. There are 2 on each side.
You must be registered for see images
Here's another shot of the motor.
You must be registered for see images
After much thought, Sean and I think the best location may be the motor mount bolts that hold the motor mount to the block. It would be a different kind of knock sensor that Doug and one of our tech's here suggested. Those are very common knock sensors and are used in Land Rovers and other cars, so we could certainly use them in our testing.
We will have a prototype Viper EMS here very shortly and will begin using it in conjunction with another Viper Performance Shop which we will mention shortly.
Thanks again Ken for bringing your car in. You may want to mention how your first dyno pull went.
Take care,
Chris.
KenH
Enthusiast
Re: Quick question
Yeah, thanks for the segue Chris.
Dyno 101
Step 1: Release the emergency brake
Step 2: ....
For those interested, I had the opportunity to meet Chris and Sean in person, both seem like pretty nice and knowledgable guys. They have the start of a nice facility in place and certainly seem to know their way around high HP cars including several Supras that they own which I got to check out. I recognized Chris's as a white blurr I had played with two years ago when I had just bought my Viper. We didn't go head-to-head, but the way he sling-shot me, there was no doubt that he was running some very serious HP.
Ya gotta admit though, the Viper classed up the joint a bit
--- Ken
Thanks again Ken for bringing your car in. You may want to mention how your first dyno pull went.
Yeah, thanks for the segue Chris.
Dyno 101
Step 1: Release the emergency brake
Step 2: ....
For those interested, I had the opportunity to meet Chris and Sean in person, both seem like pretty nice and knowledgable guys. They have the start of a nice facility in place and certainly seem to know their way around high HP cars including several Supras that they own which I got to check out. I recognized Chris's as a white blurr I had played with two years ago when I had just bought my Viper. We didn't go head-to-head, but the way he sling-shot me, there was no doubt that he was running some very serious HP.
Ya gotta admit though, the Viper classed up the joint a bit
--- Ken
Sean McElderry
Enthusiast
Re: Quick question
It was great to meet you, Ken. You have a beautiful Viper, no doubt about it. I look forward to seeing you at the track. Take care!
It was great to meet you, Ken. You have a beautiful Viper, no doubt about it. I look forward to seeing you at the track. Take care!
Re: Quick question
New products for the AEM EMS...
Here's a pic of the new AEM display we're selling (made by gauge tech). This can be dash mounted. It will provide you with various engine parameters when you don't have your laptop connected. It simply plugs into the same serial port that the laptop plugs into. Very cool.
Take care,
Chris.
New products for the AEM EMS...
Here's a pic of the new AEM display we're selling (made by gauge tech). This can be dash mounted. It will provide you with various engine parameters when you don't have your laptop connected. It simply plugs into the same serial port that the laptop plugs into. Very cool.
You must be registered for see images
Take care,
Chris.
Paolo Castellano
Enthusiast
Re: Quick question
Chris, nice display!
This will simplify how many places I have to look for data!
Chris, nice display!
This will simplify how many places I have to look for data!
Doug Supercharged Vipers
Enthusiast
Re: Quick question
Chris -
The best location for the knock sensor will be the center of the engine. The engine mount may be too low and off center (not in-between the heads). If you can locate the sensor on or around the thermostat housing that would be the best place; water carries the acoustics well.
Regards,
Doug
Chris -
The best location for the knock sensor will be the center of the engine. The engine mount may be too low and off center (not in-between the heads). If you can locate the sensor on or around the thermostat housing that would be the best place; water carries the acoustics well.
Regards,
Doug
Paolo Castellano
Enthusiast
Re: Quick question
The AEM adds another huge enhancement to that however. You were speaking about frequencies that determine knock, however you didn't mention the amplitude of the signal as it relates to RPM.
The AEM EMS filters for the knock frequencies already, but as RPM goes up, the amplitude of those signals increases drastically. It's this amplitude that describes the magnitude of the pre-ignition or whether the pre-ignition even exists. This is absolutely critical in the analysis of pre-ignition because without mapping it against engine rpm you cannot determine whether it occured.
To even more accurately detect knock we use a knock noise table in the AEM that charts knock sensor voltage as it relates to rpm. It goes from a signal of around .5V at low rpm to well over 4V at the higher rpms. Here's an example of the knock noise table that's included in the base map from AEM.
Anytime a knock frequency exists at an amplitude over the standard amplitude that the engine generates on it's own (defined by this knock noise table), the AEM determines the amount of knock and it will inject extra fuel and pull out timing in a manner that you specify based on the severity. It will also show up on that datalogs which will allow you to tune ignition timing exactly.
We use this method to achieve over 1,000rwhp in 183 cubic inch Supra motors. Every degree of timing makes a dramatic change in power, and we're able to set timing exactly at every rpm for the gas that we're running.
Did you guys know that you can advance timing from peak torque all the way to red-line? Peak torque will typically have the lowest timing setting, from there we usually pick up 2-3 degrees of timing from to redline which adds quite a bit of power you wouldn't have otherwise known you had.
Here's Ken's Viper that came in yesterday. A very sweet ride.
I snapped some pictures of underneath and we came up with a few locations for the knock sensors. I'm not sure about the water jacket location by what Doug said. Those are 15mm in diameter, and here's a picture of one of them. There are 2 on each side.
Here's another shot of the motor.
After much thought, Sean and I think the best location may be the motor mount bolts that hold the motor mount to the block. It would be a different kind of knock sensor that Doug and one of our tech's here suggested. Those are very common knock sensors and are used in Land Rovers and other cars, so we could certainly use them in our testing.
We will have a prototype Viper EMS here very shortly and will begin using it in conjunction with another Viper Performance Shop which we will mention shortly.
Thanks again Ken for bringing your car in. You may want to mention how your first dyno pull went.
Take care,
Chris.
[/QUOTE]
Chris, What you are saying makes perfect sense! I am not supprised to see something like that knock table.
From your table, it appears that you would 2.6-2.8 volts at 6,000-6200 RPM which is interesting to say the least.
One thing is for sure: You import guys have been doing the forced induction longer than the Vipers have been around!
It only makes sense you are way ahead of the Viper game in the tuning technicalities and tools to do so.
The AEM system looks to all to Motec does and more WITHOUT having to rewire the car. Plug and play rules!
I predict the AEM will revolutionize all aspects of Viper tuning for forced induction AND naturally aspirated applications!
Hey ==> Hurry up and get that thing done already! Come on now!
The AEM adds another huge enhancement to that however. You were speaking about frequencies that determine knock, however you didn't mention the amplitude of the signal as it relates to RPM.
The AEM EMS filters for the knock frequencies already, but as RPM goes up, the amplitude of those signals increases drastically. It's this amplitude that describes the magnitude of the pre-ignition or whether the pre-ignition even exists. This is absolutely critical in the analysis of pre-ignition because without mapping it against engine rpm you cannot determine whether it occured.
To even more accurately detect knock we use a knock noise table in the AEM that charts knock sensor voltage as it relates to rpm. It goes from a signal of around .5V at low rpm to well over 4V at the higher rpms. Here's an example of the knock noise table that's included in the base map from AEM.
You must be registered for see images
Anytime a knock frequency exists at an amplitude over the standard amplitude that the engine generates on it's own (defined by this knock noise table), the AEM determines the amount of knock and it will inject extra fuel and pull out timing in a manner that you specify based on the severity. It will also show up on that datalogs which will allow you to tune ignition timing exactly.
We use this method to achieve over 1,000rwhp in 183 cubic inch Supra motors. Every degree of timing makes a dramatic change in power, and we're able to set timing exactly at every rpm for the gas that we're running.
Did you guys know that you can advance timing from peak torque all the way to red-line? Peak torque will typically have the lowest timing setting, from there we usually pick up 2-3 degrees of timing from to redline which adds quite a bit of power you wouldn't have otherwise known you had.
Here's Ken's Viper that came in yesterday. A very sweet ride.
You must be registered for see images
I snapped some pictures of underneath and we came up with a few locations for the knock sensors. I'm not sure about the water jacket location by what Doug said. Those are 15mm in diameter, and here's a picture of one of them. There are 2 on each side.
You must be registered for see images
Here's another shot of the motor.
You must be registered for see images
After much thought, Sean and I think the best location may be the motor mount bolts that hold the motor mount to the block. It would be a different kind of knock sensor that Doug and one of our tech's here suggested. Those are very common knock sensors and are used in Land Rovers and other cars, so we could certainly use them in our testing.
We will have a prototype Viper EMS here very shortly and will begin using it in conjunction with another Viper Performance Shop which we will mention shortly.
Thanks again Ken for bringing your car in. You may want to mention how your first dyno pull went.
Take care,
Chris.
[/QUOTE]
Chris, What you are saying makes perfect sense! I am not supprised to see something like that knock table.
From your table, it appears that you would 2.6-2.8 volts at 6,000-6200 RPM which is interesting to say the least.
One thing is for sure: You import guys have been doing the forced induction longer than the Vipers have been around!
It only makes sense you are way ahead of the Viper game in the tuning technicalities and tools to do so.
The AEM system looks to all to Motec does and more WITHOUT having to rewire the car. Plug and play rules!
I predict the AEM will revolutionize all aspects of Viper tuning for forced induction AND naturally aspirated applications!
Hey ==> Hurry up and get that thing done already! Come on now!
Re: Quick question
Paolo,
That knock noise table is very conservative. We typically move the curve about 500rpm to the left and remap it somewhat, but every car is a little different. The knock noise table can really help differentiate between good noise and bad noise.
Plug n play is the only way to go. Why Motec didn't do this and why they made it so hard to set up a car was a poor decision in my opinion. It is really allowing AEM to dominate the EMS field.
AEM has definitely revolutionized tuning. It allows you to make a very wild car very streetable. It also allows you to improve the power in most vehicles 15-30% depending on their original state of tune. It will make you love to drive you car. Smooth power, consistent power, smooth idle, perfect throttle response. When these aren't there it can be very frustrating.
We look forward to dialing your cars in. Sean will be flying out to the East Coast and tuning cars at Heffner Performance. We'll be tuning the West Coast Vipers at our shop here in Portland, OR. If you aren't near either of those locations, you can always talk to us for free help or arrange for us to come out.
Take care,
Chris.
Paolo,
That knock noise table is very conservative. We typically move the curve about 500rpm to the left and remap it somewhat, but every car is a little different. The knock noise table can really help differentiate between good noise and bad noise.
Plug n play is the only way to go. Why Motec didn't do this and why they made it so hard to set up a car was a poor decision in my opinion. It is really allowing AEM to dominate the EMS field.
AEM has definitely revolutionized tuning. It allows you to make a very wild car very streetable. It also allows you to improve the power in most vehicles 15-30% depending on their original state of tune. It will make you love to drive you car. Smooth power, consistent power, smooth idle, perfect throttle response. When these aren't there it can be very frustrating.
We look forward to dialing your cars in. Sean will be flying out to the East Coast and tuning cars at Heffner Performance. We'll be tuning the West Coast Vipers at our shop here in Portland, OR. If you aren't near either of those locations, you can always talk to us for free help or arrange for us to come out.
Take care,
Chris.
Paolo Castellano
Enthusiast
Re: Quick question
Chris, the AEM is fantastic! Mine is one of the Heffner cars that will be running the prototype unit. I cannot wait! Should be AWESOME!
Chris, the AEM is fantastic! Mine is one of the Heffner cars that will be running the prototype unit. I cannot wait! Should be AWESOME!
Marc Lublin
Enthusiast
Re: Quick question
Paolo,
If it works out well for you, you know I will be right behind you! Make sure you get a good current baseline of what the car is performing at now. I can't harness the power now with street tires, but for some stupid reason I still always want more. Sounds like it could help make more power throughout the whole curve.
Paolo,
If it works out well for you, you know I will be right behind you! Make sure you get a good current baseline of what the car is performing at now. I can't harness the power now with street tires, but for some stupid reason I still always want more. Sounds like it could help make more power throughout the whole curve.
