Alum radiator needed

[dave6666]

While we are on the topic of talent...is there anyway we can see your pictures of the splitter and diffuser build? The pic links are dead in illustrated section.

There have been others ask about that. I have acquired the data to begin that process. I'm amazed at how many DIY I wrote

Anyway, it will take me a while to reconstruct them and get them hosted. I think the aero thread that you are mentioning had several hundred pics. I might start with an easy one first.

 

[AZTVR]

The red tab slides to the right. I found that out AFTER I destroyed that piece of crap connector. Idiots whoever designed that piece of crap. The other guy that needs to be shot is the genius who designed the clamps used to hold the hoses on. Simple screw/nut ratchet type are soooooooooooooo much easier to take off.

As for the monkey clamps, I replaced them all with real ones when I put it back together yesterday.

As for the red tab connectors, I agree wholeheartedly ! PITA!

As for the clamps, they are the "correct" engineering solution. They apply the specified clamping force equally around the hose without damaging the hose. However, they are a pain to take off if you don't have the appropriate tools.

The problem with the cheaper plain worm drive clamps is that people (including me) tend to overtighten them and cut the rubber. If you tighten it to where it should be, then you should go back every once in a while and retighten it after heat and cool cycles. The OEM clamp is designed to expand and contract along with the hose and tube and always applies a constant clamping force.

Why do I know this? I got ********** at taking those clamps off and on and did some research. I also had a leak due to a simple worm drive band clamp that I used. So, I then bought the proper tool, to remove/reinstall the OEM clamps.

There are worm drive constant clamp force clamps available; but, a bit pricier than the cheap plain ones.

 

[dave6666]

I found that on my Roe silicone hoses that after a reasonable clamp torque using the supplied worm drive clamps, that they leaked after a bit. So yes, re-torquing is a must, as well as not over-torquing initially.

Oh... and on my DIY arsenal... I can't believe I've never done one on radiator R&R

Stay tuned

 

[cratica]

Yep I too simply looked at the task at hand and realized that it would be much easier to remove the hood which was very easy to do. Didn't read the manual so don't know what it recommends. Glad I did

 

[Ratical2]

This thread got me motivated to install my rebuilt three-core and surprise...it won't fit. They positioned the lower outlet too wide. The aftermarket aluminum (on the right) was a tight enough fit but the rebuilt doesn't stand a chance. Looks like I'll be going back to the radiator shop tomorrow to get it fixed.

Thanks for posting this pic Chuck and thank you Dave for your pics and measurements as well.This site is awesome!

I just picked up my radiator from the radiator shop. Mine was 60% blocked not unlike Dave's previous pics but the guys put it back together with the lower outlet just like Chuck's.

I had the guy at the shop go online to this page and show them how it was supposed to look. They took care of it.

Thanks again guys!

 

[jay01m]

Thought I posted on this but I guess not...

Pretty simple really. I went to a local shop not too far from where I live. They broke down the old radiator, cleaned and painted the tanks, and welded a new triple core in. I believe it's a copper core, but I can't recall for sure. The shop seemed to have done a good job because the rad installed easily and no issues yet. I don't recall the fins per sq inch or fins per linear inch, but the core was listed as a "race" radiator, whatever that means.

Jay01m I'd like to hear about your build as well.

 

[dave6666]

but the core was listed as a "race" radiator, whatever that means.

Means nothing. Every part that is neon ricer yellow or red or blue or green or... is a race part. Says so right on the package!

Just used the search term <viper racing> on ebay and got 441 items. Need a racing fart can muffler for your GTS? Adds 15 hp

 

[jay01m]

Oh I definitely figured that. Hell, everything is a "racing" part on these cars as far as I'm concerned. Thank god nothing on my car is neon colored.

You forgot stickers, they add 5HP, 10 if they're vinyl. I saw a ricer the other day, must have had about 1360HP

Means nothing. Every part that is neon ricer yellow or red or blue or green or... is a race part. Says so right on the package!

Just used the search term <viper racing> on ebay and got 441 items. Need a racing fart can muffler for your GTS? Adds 15 hp

 

[dave6666]

This thread got me motivated to install my rebuilt three-core and surprise...it won't fit. They positioned the lower outlet too wide. The aftermarket aluminum (on the right) was a tight enough fit but the rebuilt doesn't stand a chance. Looks like I'll be going back to the radiator shop tomorrow to get it fixed.

Well I've been motoring around with mine now for a few weeks and the slight leak I had to get repaired appears to be holding. At least solder I can get done down the street where they built it.

As far as performance goes it has finally cooled off in with highs not exceeding mid 80's. All of the data that I have with a 3-pass aluminum radiator when I was testing my 3 fan setup was done in the summer when the temps are 105 plus. Will have to wait to see that info.

I will however with the miles that I have on it restate what I have said in every other G2 cooling thread. Airflow is king. 3 cores of copper do not appear to replace airflow.