Belanger Header Install: How Difficult?

Purdue_Boiler_Viper

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How difficult is a Belanger header install on a Gen2? Do you have to raise / lower the engine or remove engine compartment parts?
 

Neil - UK

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you dont touch the engine ! but removing the AC box and pulling the brakes lines out of the way slightly makes things a lot easier
 

plumcrazy

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ditto. it really wasnt that bad. it takes time but its not hard to do once the airbox is off
 

KenH

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Also make sure that you unbolt the two halves of the header down by the collector before trying to install them on the head and then bolt back together again.

Actual install is pretty straight forward. Hardest part is generally connecting the exhaust turnout up to the rest of your system.

If you use the Belanger fiber header gasket, make sure that you retorque the header bolts several times soon after you start driving it or you can develop an exhaust leak. I think I retorqued my 3 times before they settled in completely. Stock style gaskets are probably a better option.
 

plumcrazy

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i meant the ac box...sorry

and most will tel you reuse the oem metal gasket. and i only used a high temp copper type rtv on the collector
 

Steve-Indy

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Have seen an 01 that we had to "rock" the engine in the motor mounts due to the right side riding high...causing the right sided exhaust to hit the top of the side sill area...easy to fix with 2 folks.
 
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Purdue_Boiler_Viper

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Thanks for all the input. Any thoughts on other headers? All my research indicated Belangers were the easiest to install.
 

ViperTony

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It wasn't difficult at all. The hardest part for me was loosening the stock headers and exhaust. I did an entire belanger exahaust including cats and a catback. I removed the airbox on the passenger and the valve covers to give myself enough room and clearance. You could get away with keepin the valve covers in place but make certain you mask them off with tape because they will get scratched. If you're going to hook them up to the stock cats you may need to weld in a 2.5 to 3" reducers so the turnouts will mate to the stock cats. The fiber gaskets will leak after 1000 mikles or so. Use the metal gaskets that came with the stock headers. They work very well, no leaks and Tator recomends them.

As for collector clearance in the frame area you shouldn't have a problem unles your engine mounts are flat as pancakes. Keep us updated on your progress. I'll PM you my home phone in case you need help.
 
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Disturbed

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I found the head bolts near the firewall a *****.

I put in each part one at a time (loose) It was easiest putting them in from the bottom.

I used new stock header gaskets as fiber ones are junk. I used new Mr.Gasket gaskets as paper collector gaskets are junk too. You will burn them up in a year (I did it in 3 months)

One last thing, used a little high temp RVT on the collector gaskets, it helps them seal(and hold them in place)...and if you ever blow a gasket it makes removing the old gasket easier. Run the car for 10 min after you get it all installed and re-torque it. After 500mi re-torque again.
 

Steve 00RT/10

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We also lifted the coolant bottle out of the way. I don't remember using any gaskets at all, just some hi temp silicon. Never had any leakage problems yet....6 yrs. / 66,000 miles. Have never had to re-tighten the collector area set up.

Steve
 
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Purdue_Boiler_Viper

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Re: high temp silicone. Any specifics on what you guys used? When I did my high flow cats and cat back, I used a little Permatex Ultra Copper. It's rated to 700F, but at the junction to the header, it burned off, slowly. Made the damn car look like it was on fire for about a week at stop lights. :mad:
 

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