best headers and filters

red98GTS

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My opinion would be to first do a search on the message board for both headers and filters. You will find a ton on both. Some prefer one brand over another on both of these. Many different opinions here. You might also want to listen to a few systems at a club meeting to see which complete system gives you the sound you seek. What's in back of the headers makes a big difference in sound. Hope this helps. pete the ex glass guy
 

2tall

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I tried this topic before w/o a straight answer.

Searching is no help on the headers, but it becomes pretty clear that S&B filters are the preferred filters.

Headers are all pretty similiar in that they're expensive for the gain, they give approx 20hp and they make the car louder.

Bellangers are the ones I hear recommended the most, but pretty much everyone under the sun and their brother makes headers.

Exhausts are a different story altogether...
 

Snake Bitten

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Does the airbox still have to be modified for the K&N's or K&N figured this out yet? I would probably try to run down some S&B's, they fit perfect.
 

Kurt 97 GTS

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Snake Bitten:
Does the airbox still have to be modified for the K&N's or K&N figured this out yet? I would probably try to run down some S&B's, they fit perfect.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I had to modify the airbox in my 94 RT, but have not had any problems with the K&N's in my 97 GTS.....Kurt
 

Tiepilot

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S&B's require no airbox mods at all, if you can compare K&N's to S&B's in person you will pick S&B's
 

Ulysses

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Anyone ever hear of or try an O2 sensor that heats up quicker?

Main header problem for 2000s +:

On a header with the O2 sensor **** at the collector, the primary O2 sensor does not heat up as quickly as before or the temps found at the collector are just not hot enough to reach the operating temp of the sensor. Result is check engine light and running rich.

The current solution is either sims or relocated **** to one of the primaries or a combination of both.

The problem I have with the relocated sensor is that now you are monitoring only one cylinder. If another cylinder suddenly went lean, your computer wouldn't adjust for it, very bad.

The problem I have with sims is that they only simulate monitoring a good situation, tricking your computer into thinking that everything is "A-OKAY". You have effectively removed the monitoring feature that is a necessary component in keeping everything in check.

If someone could come up with an O2 sensor that heats up quicker and works at the temp range found at the collector, then you have solved the problem. Anyone hear of such an animal?
 

Wolf

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I had the SB filters when I had my stock airbox, great filters, however, when I upgraded to the Hennessey carbon fiber airbox, the SB do not fit, they are too wide, so I had to go to K&N filters. So if anyone has a Hennessey airbox, be aware that only the K&N's fit, and they are put in the reverse direction of flow versus the stock airbox.
 

Ulysses

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silkey said:
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>i have a 2002gts.with the ****** super comp.,i havent had any problems.no codes tripped.went to the dyno,adjusted the air fuel ratio with the roe system.the only downside i have,is i let the car idle for about i minute before taking off when the engine is cold.that gives the os sensors time to warm up.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

How many miles do you have on the system? Sometimes it takes a few miles before it trips. Some got it right away, some got it a few hundred after. The length of time you idle has no bearing on whether the computer trips the CE light or not. The computer has a set wait time internally before it examines the signal from the O2.
 

Ulysses

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silkey,

These are the ones that I found from ******. Part #5003. Are those the ones that you have? Note where the 02 sensor is located. Did you have to extend wires for the 02 or reroute? Did you have to weld to the cats or clamp? Are they 3" or 2 5/8"?


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MW

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Can anyone verify the collector hookup pipe diameter on the 5003 ******'s? thanks!
(says they hook to stock pipe, BUT specs also say the coll size OD is 3 in)
 

Viperoctane

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Get hennessey headers and the BTR intake !! Very nice intake system and the headers make an awesome sound and Hp too. Tom Welch at BTR is excellent to deal with
smile.gif
 

cstegall

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2002Viper...

JonB at PartsRack correctly advised me to install the Belanger headers and exhaust and I have not had any problems and the check engine light has not come on. It seems that Belanger relocated the O2 sensor and that cured the problem(at least it did for my '01 GTS).
Give Jon a call
smile.gif


No Flame Intended...Just Observation,
CStegall
 

JonB

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We PREFER Belangers because: Working closely w/ Belanger, we helped R+D and tweak the O-2 sensor issue, (and one other issue) that ENSURES that our Belanger headers are NOT throwing Check-lites even on the much more sensitive 2001 and 2002 cars, not even rarely-intermittently.

Belanger has been building cooler, easier-to-install, BEST street-performance headers for 40+ years, and Vipers for many years. Fully coated, with hand built collectors, and NOT off-the-shelf Burns collectors that simply cram the primarys into a shelved part. The hand-built Belanger collector increases available torque and HP at "street speeds" and only gives it up at 4800RPM+ to Long-tube headers and step headers. (Those run VERY HOT, even when/if coated!) And the 5-7 HP some long-tubes claim occurs at 4800+rpm. (Spend much time there?) The much cooler-operating alumanized steel of Belangers lasts 25+ years, and looks great with simple care. The D-port Belangers match the D-ports exhaust on ALL YEARS of Viper motors. ALL YEARS. No square-peg thinking, of placing a round tube over a D-shaped hole. Less turbulence, better flow, NO LITES.

While there are certainly cheaper units on the market, Belangers run COOLER, fit easier, and save install time. No melting / damaging underhood and underfoot components. No shimming up the motor mounts for header tube clearance, either. Available from several vendors here, and our PartsRack VCA price WILL surprise and please you.

FILTERS: A filter has to do more than fit. It has to fit TIGHTLY. It has to stay rigid under heavy suction and at high RPM and high speed, and not deform or collapse. Or puncture. Or fail to perform or stay rigid even when moderately dirty. It also must be SPECIFIED/RATED by the manufacturer (and-Or SAE) for the specific vehicle. ORECA and many race teams used/use only K+N filters for a reason.

If you cannot get a K+N (factory part) to fit the factory airbox, there is some simple operator error at play. K+Ns have a $4-million liability policy, and they have a filter SAE-rated and SPECIFIED for VIPER. If you check the manufacturer of the so-called 'easy fit' filters, they do NOT even claim to make a filter for a Viper or for any V-10 product for that matter. I last checked 10 days ago.

Not Specified? NOT WARRANTEED! Ie if a stone or a screw goes thru, they have NO warrantee (like K+N) on the product. If it collapses under suction while dirty, NO COVERAGE. K and N is warranteed to even operate DIRTY.

And Dodge could even invalidate the warranty, (but likley never would,) because it is NOT specified for the Viper application. So we only use and recommend K+Ns, wherever you choose to buy them.

INTAKES: The suction of a connected NACA duct eliminates most drag and lift. If you DEFEAT the NACA duct you make it a 150 mph bug scoop, pressurizing underhood, and filling the V-10 'valley' with debris and dust and bugs, while creating lift and drag.

If you then hang cone-filters behind a hot radiator, and then move forward, you **** in only hot air...at 190-230 degrees. Ambient NACA-ducted air is almost certainly 50-100 degrees. Which makes more HP? These droop-snoot cones also bend the air 75-80 degrees, Almost a right turn. Straighter-flow is best for more volume and more velocity and less turbulence.

These "Hot Air Induction Systems" only LOOK cool. But looks ARE important.
 

Steve 00RT/10

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I still get a MIL every 500 miles or so even with the front O2 moved to the exact location recommended by Belanger. Perhaps I'm the exception to the rule. I have a code reader/eraser so it's not a big deal. I keep getting a PO135. This has been discussed many times regarding the placement of the O2 sensor. Dan Cragin has pointed out several times that there is a risk of not sensing the combination of all the cylinders as the new recommended placement only senses one tube. He is right. This is not an ideal situation. However, my mechanic tells me there is very little risk of running lean due to not sensing the other 4 cylinders. The computer will trip a light for misfires and any number of other reasons which should alert you to a problem. When there is an O2 made that will successfully install in the factory position, I will move back to the safer original position. I believe Dan said they are testing a O2 with positive results so far.

As for fit of the Belanger system, we did the complete install in just under 4 hours. It fit like a glove. I have yet to hear a better sounding system.

Filters---Amsoil makes a filter for the Viper which is warranteed against failure. From the tests I've seen, they flow the same amount of air, yet have better dirt trapping ability. They run about $25 each and are reusable. I've had them on for almost 20K miles.

Steve
 
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