Cam removal/installation tricks

LTHL VPR

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I am planning to do heads, intake, rockers, and TBs; all of which can be done with the engine in the car. I am debating whether or not to do a cam as well. I think the only way to do this requires engine removal. I assume this would add considerable time to the installation.
Any thoughts? Is it worth the trouble?
Thanks!
 

Martin D

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You DO NOT have to remove the Engine to replace the Cam.
It will just barely clear with the Engine jacked up at the front.
I believe we also loosened the Tranny.

I have assisted in this process twice! On my car no less...(assisted being the operative word)
smile.gif


I would say that if you get the right heads/cam combo, it will be well worth it. Somebody back me up here - Maybe 25 RWHP over the Stock Cam.
 

VEETENN

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by LTHL VPR:
I am planning to do heads, intake, rockers, and TBs; all of which can be done with the engine in the car. I am debating whether or not to do a cam as well. I think the only way to do this requires engine removal. I assume this would add considerable time to the installation.
Any thoughts? Is it worth the trouble?
Thanks!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

As long as your taking off the top of the engine anyway include a new cam. The heart of the engine is the cam and with the right choice the rest of your modifications will respond much better. Also with a new cam you can choose your power band and HP. But keep in mind how it may effect CA smog check.
 
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Most important is to pick tuner experienced with the most you want to make. Changing the computer fuel map may also be required with the cam change. Changing the computer opens a big can of worms. If you are going to change the cam I suggest you start with the GTSR billet. Wayne give me a call if you have time. We may be at Laguna Seca (SCCA regional race) tomorrow. Regarding larger TB's, do not waste your money.
 

Marc Lublin

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Engine definitely doesn't have to come out of the car to install cam. With the motor jacked up, you have a mm or two of clearance to get it out. Comp Cams makes two nice streetable cams which will enhance you other mods. Don't even think of doing all those mods without installing a cam. I don't understand why some people do heads and not the cam at the same time. From a labor standpoint, you are already there. All the other mods come together when you have a cam that will really open those valves up.
 

treynor

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&gt; I don't understand why some people do heads and not the cam at the same time?

I can't speak for anyone else here, but I kept the stock cam because I wanted the car to remain smog-sniffer legal and to maintain its idle and low-RPM driveability. 20 HP at the very top of the powerband isn't worth the sacrifices I'd make elsewhere.
 

treynor

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As another data point, my car's making 515 RWHP / 525 RWTQ with heads + T&D 1.7 rockers on my stock '01 cam. You'll probably pick up another 20-30 RWHP with a cam, but at a cost to idle, smog and low-speed driveability.
 

David Jenkins

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Marc, from a labor standpoint, you aren't already there. I would charge more time to install the camshaft if we were just doing a head swap. There is alot more labor to take the front of the motor apart.dj
 

Marc Lublin

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David,
What I mean by you are already there is that much of the work you would need to do to install the cam has already been done when the heads come off. Yes there is more labor involved to remove components on the front of the motor, but it's not all that much more work.
Ben,
I like the way the lumpy idle feels, it reminds me what I have under the hood when I'm sitting at a light. If you don't go too crazy with the cam you won't loose much at the low end. I passed NY smog test. Don't know if NY is tough or not though.
 
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