Charging/battery issues???

isanti

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I am experiencing some charging and or battery issues. Was working on my Gen 1 the past coupld of nights (install nitrous) and went to take it to the track the other day and the batt was dead. Push started it, drove 2.5 hours to the track. Got there, swapped wheels, car didn't have enough power to start. Push start again, have fun, don't turn car off for another 2 hours, then change wheels.

Need to push start again, drive home (2.5 hours) thinking I need a battery. Take it out last night (only 710 CCA battery), bring it in for testing and it tested fine (was already charged and tested to 700 CCA - Batteries Plus). On the way home tonight I am going to take it to another place to get tested but it my guess is that it won't start the care tonight.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
John
 
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isanti

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It is slowely spinning like it is dead. I brought the battery to another place and it also checked fine on the way home last night.

Installed it again, took a bit but the car started. Ran for a few minutes and left it. Went out today and not enough power to start.

I was thinking possibly the starter also but the starter turns. I know if I took it off and brought it in they would hook up power and ground and it would work.

Any idea how I could tell if there is a small draw?
 

PAvenomRT/10

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If the battery checks out, then it could be a loose or bad chassis ground wire. I had this problem on my Dodge Stealth and once the ground wire was properly connected, my weak starting problems disappeared.
PAvemomRT/10
 

TexasPettey

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Hook up a jump to the positive cable outlet on the left side of the engine compartment. You should be able to get enough juice from that to crank the car over, especially if the battery has some juice still in it. If there is a contact problem from the battery to the front, you'll know from that. I believe that the starter POS wire runs directly from there.
 
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isanti

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Thanks, I will try both of those. One of my friends thinks it is the starter but my experience has been the starter gear wears out or the contats on the solonoid have gone bad. Hoping to look at it tonight.
 

cyaford

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Have you tried a new battery? If not, then my money is on the battery. I've gone through a few batteries before getting the battery tender from Jon B. On each occasion, the "bad" battery would test out as good at the local auto stores. The Viper is obviously very sensitive to batteries that may be at the low end of the good range.
 
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isanti

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Maybe I will grab it out of my other viper. Benefit of having 2 ;) I was 100% sure it was the batt and stunned when it wasn't. Battery should be 770 CCA anyhow, I will just try the other and see if that solves it.
 
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isanti

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Wend and got a new battery and the problem was still there. Car idled for 15 mins, drove 15 minutes away, and wouldn't start.

Went to Oriely's to do some diagnostic work. Alternator tested fine, new batt tested dead off the port on the side of the engine. Went back to the battery and it tested fine off the battery.

There must be some issue between the two. My understanding (per service manual) is that the + line splits after the battery, one going to the port on the side of the engine and the other to the starter.

While we were at it, I had him check the starter. The starter brought the battery down to 7.X volts while cranking and drew an estimated 500 CCA from the battery. He wasn't sure what that really meant so I went to grab the other viper.

Came back with my 95 (problem car is a 93) and the starter only pulled an estimated 260 CCA. The starter brought the battery down to 8.X volts.

Maybe the starter? I am going to swap it when I get time (hopefully this weekend) and bring it in for testing. Something is up as this car doesn't crank near as hard as my 95. Seems like the starter is having issues turning the motor. Regardless of charge (or jumper) the car cranks very slow.

Any ideal before I pull the starter?

Thanks,
John
 
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isanti

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Looking at the wiring diagrams in my manual, it is probably a bad starter. The + wire on the battery goes to the starter, another wire is attached to the same connection on the starter, then run to the jumper post.

The battery tests fine but when the power gets to the jumper post the batter tests bad. The starter must be consuming power when it is off as I should have the same reading from the battery post on the jumper post. Seem right?
 
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isanti

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Go figure, the bastard fired up today. I am still going to take the starter off and get it checked to try and rule that out of the mix.
 

Limit

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Any new words isanti? I JUST got this same problem today... I haven't driven the Viper in a few weeks, but I leave it on a cigarette battery tender.. I don't recall any problems the last time I started it.

I had it running a good hour and a half after jumping it... Got home, turned it off, waited a minute... and dead..

The tender I have says that the battery's reading at least 80% if not full charged when I try it.. The first time it slowly putters, every time after that's clicking unless I let it sit on the tender for awhile.. Jumping it worked perfectly.

I just got a new battery in it either last summer or two years ago.. I bought the one everybody here recommended because it's a hassle getting to the battery, and it's on a tender whenever it's home..

How much is a starter/installation for the Viper? Damn it, Going to have to take it to the vipertech for a starter too I bet..
 
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isanti

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The starter was shot, the car is fine now. I would bring it to an Oriely's and have them check:

1. Battery
2. Alternator (should be fine from the sounds of it)
3. The CCA the starter pulls upon startup

I would guess you have a bad battery due to the symptoms you described. The kicker for me was that:

1. The car cranked slowely compared to my other viper
2. The problem seemed to be when the car was warmed up

If you want to test it like mine, start the car, let it run for a while (drive it). Stop and try to start. If nothing or lack of power, wait a while and try it again. Mine would start. Seems as if I had a draw in the starter. I had a time where I couldn't start it by jumping, had to push start it.

New starter in and the car cranks like it should and will start when warm :)

I doubt yours is the starter but it is right on the bottom of the car. I had an issue with getting the top bolt out and had someone else do it when I was out of town. $125 I believe for the starter (prob used) and $30 labor. Alot cheaper than I thought but I had him doing other work. LMK if the above doesn't help and I may have some pointers. I looked at alot before settling on the starter.

Mitch - SNAKEBYT is in Milltown, WI and did the work form me. Highly recommend him if you need anything done.
 

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