EBC Green Install for Dummies.

[genXgts]

Just came in from a 4 corner EBC Green install on my 97 GTS.

Like most things Viper I go in with a little hesitation and come out wishing I would quit thinking about the value of the car and just do all the work myself.

Notes of interest: Rotors pop off the car with no trouble at all, fronts require 3 bolts, 2 on the caliper and one holding the brake line to pull off the caliper. Then the rotor is easily removed and sanded off the car. Much easier for the 2 minutes it takes to pull the caliper. Front brake pistons can be manually flushed up into the caliper with muscle power alone (make sure to crack the cap off the underhood resovoir).

Rears are even easier, after taking the retaining pin and squeal spring out the pads literally fall out with a little persuading, and the rotor sneaks out as well, with the caliper still attached.

With no "special tool" within 500 miles of my location, I opted for the needle nose with tape for safety. Not a problem at all, truly a 60 second operation. Spent more time reading about the tool then improvising without it.

New pads pop right into place after scuffing the rotors good, put the spring back and pin and your good to go.

Total time to hit all 4 pads next time after the car is in the air:

30 minutes tops.

until next time,

 

[ViperJoe]

QUOTE "Front brake pistons can be manually flushed up into the caliper with muscle power alone (make sure to crack the cap off the underhood resovoir)." QUOTE

Unless you have already done a complete system flush, doesn't this backflush dirty fluid back into the master cylinder?

What's the "special tool" for (could you elaborate on the proceedures using the same)?
Thanks

 

[Bugeater]

Is there a brake bleed procedure illustrated anywheres?
I did brakeman 3's to the rear last night, and want to
do fronts and remove the proportioning ring tonight, but think I will need to bleed the system when all is done.

I want to hit a autozone/wallmart etc. for tubing, catchcan, siphon or whatever else is needed for a quick bleed. I also assume you need a partner to keep foot on/off the pedal.

Anyone got a good bleeding procedure?

 

[GR8_ASP]

Unless you have already done a complete system flush, doesn't this backflush dirty fluid back into the master cylinder?

What's the "special tool" for (could you elaborate on the proceedures using the same)?
Thanks

After doing a pad change I completely flush the system so the back flush isn't an issue. Anyway, I would think it would be okay if you have recently flushed the system and are just changing pads and want to do it quickly.

The special tool is to rotate the rear caliper piston back into position (fully retracted). It really is not needed. A pair of needle nose pliers worked well for me. You just have to be careful while doing it.

 

[95Viper]

Motive Bleeder

 

[RobHook]

A couple more notes on this topic:

Several of the "universal" caliper retracting tools I've tried didn't fit the Viper's rear calipers. Specifically the little cube-shaped one you see at jobber shops doesn't tend to have the right pins to fit into the Viper's notches. Just be aware before spending the money. The needle-nose pliers work fine.

Also, when "scuffing" the rotors, there's a special tool that should be used. Although it's common to use sandpaper, most manufacturers warn against it as the "sand" from the sandpaper can embed itself in the rotor and then into the pad and cause premature wear for both.

I haven't checked to see what brake fluid is recommended for the Viper recently but most other collector cars, especially older ones, work best with an "LMA" (Low Moisture Activity) fluid if they're not driven often. The LMA fluids are much less likely to absorb water and cause corrosion. Castrol makes one and I'm sure others do too.

--Rob