Garage Car Lifts??

RoadKing

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Adding to the stable, but I need more garage space. Anyone have any experience/recommendations for lifts? Ceiling height is 10'2", which should be enough to park two high. Thanks for any help.
 
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RoadKing

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Thanks to all for the advice. I have an appointment with the garage door man tomorrow and then I will decide on one of these presented. Pictures to follow soon....I hope.
 

BarbaraAnn

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Here's another vote for Double Park. Easy to operate, assembled and working in under two hours. Had ours for 3-4 years...no problems. Four cars in a three-car garage is indeed possible...
 

GR8_ASP

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Quite happy with my Stinger. Not very common but extremely well made and durable. Had mine for 7 or 8 years with no problems.

Stinger Lifts
 

Mr Hemi Head

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Road King, Did you meet with the garage door company? I have the same ceiling height and got a rather expensive quote to modify the door and install a side mount operator.$1200 was a guess but could be more.
 
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RoadKing

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I have a 18'x7' door, which is (4)-21" panels. They are going to add (2)-21's panels, install a new spring, add more track, and raise the door opener for $750. When the door is all the way down, the top panel will have a little angle to it, but that's the only way to get full height. The comanies here can not use a side opener as it does not have sensor protection at the bottom. $1,250 sounds like new everything.

Are you adding a lift? If so, have you made a purchase desicion. I'm still looking as they range from $2,000 to $3,500 and it's hard to tell the diffence with pictures.
 

AndyR

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Double check before spending that much on the garage door modifications. Where you plan to put the lift may leave the door in it's current state above your trunk or otherwise unaffected. In my old house I had the lift forward enough so the door wouldn't hit the top car. Check it out.
 

MannyC

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I have a 18'x7' door, which is (4)-21" panels. They are going to add (2)-21's panels, install a new spring, add more track, and raise the door opener for $750. When the door is all the way down, the top panel will have a little angle to it, but that's the only way to get full height. The comanies here can not use a side opener as it does not have sensor protection at the bottom. $1,250 sounds like new everything.

Are you adding a lift? If so, have you made a purchase desicion. I'm still looking as they range from $2,000 to $3,500 and it's hard to tell the diffence with pictures.

That is what I am doing. I am told I only need one extra panel, and the motor is going to go right up against the ceiling along with the rails. Waiting to get final pricing on it in the next day or two hopefully. After that I acid stain the floors, then order my first lift. Was going to order two, but figured I would start with one and see how that goes.
 

Steve-Indy

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I left my garage "stock"...and the GREAT FOLKS at Cytech Double Park CUSTOM BUILT the lift to my specs (only 103" to work with)...AND they assembled the lift at the factory, delivered it to my garage, and it is a PERFECT FIT...can park a Gen I or a Gen III (the latter with the top DOWN)below and a GTS on top...with a full inch to spare inspite of the oversized foot plates (area and thickness). Have examimed several lifts first hand...and I chose this one for ME, ALWAYS check on the TESTED collapse weight...don't fall for the often quoted "built to such-and-such specs".
 

Lee00blacksilverGTS

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Steve. you did this with 8.583 feet?! I have been quoted "impossible" at 9 ft. What difference would it make if the top is down on the bottom car RT10? Based on your experience, could you stack 2 gts's at 9ft or 108 inches. Any advice about who to talk to at Cytech?
 

Frank 03SRT

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I did it with Double Park and 9'-2" clearance at middle of garage and 9' at front. Did it myself by buying track extensions, mounting the opener and rails on the ceiling, adding a door panel, all for about $200. Did both doors, one with opener in middle and one on side. Both work fine, middle better because balanced.

The guy is telling you no way for a 9' ceiling because he is ignorant or lazy.
 

Steve-Indy

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Lee00..., I talked with Bill who is the owner, I THINK...noting that another gentleman in the actual manufacturing area talked to me several times. One of my problems was that the garage being discussed is my upper level garage, parking garage spans make up it's floor, with another garage below...spent about as much on structural engineer consulation as on lift !!!

I wanted the "leeway" on top as lift HAS TO GO UP an inch or two in order to go down...therefore, the shorter cars (both GenI RT/10's) go below OR the SRT-10 with top DOWN (CANNOT get it on the bottem with top up). By my memory, I used 49" as max GTS height (cars are not lowered) and about 48" for the "shorties". Had to increase lift post foot pad to 12'X12" for loading, and increased footpad thickness to avoid flex...left garage attic, old style openers and doors alone for space reasons...and it WORKS.

I was VERY SURPRISED when, prior to delivery, Bill offered to take the whole thing back home if it did not fit. These are standup folks and they hit the specs PERFECTLY !!!
 

Mr Hemi Head

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The garage door mechanic said that a standard (home use) operator cannot lift a door with an extra section so they will not gaurantee the operator.I like the CYTEC system and will go that route when the door issue is resolved.
 

GR8_ASP

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Hmm, my garage door openers have available a screw drive extension to allow use on 9 ft doors. I have insulated 9 ft doors and no problem. I added 1 extra panel and a larger than normal radius so the horizontal section is about 9 1/2 ft above the floor and the ceiling another 1 1/2 ft above that. Plenty of room for the opener to be center mounted and the door to be opened with the hoist at full height with the SRT or RT/10 on top. With the hoist full up I can drive most cars under it. More than a foot more than the Viper needs.
 

Frank 03SRT

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The garage door mechanic said that a standard (home use) operator cannot lift a door with an extra section so they will not gaurantee the operator.I like the CYTEC system and will go that route when the door issue is resolved.

If you have side springs, putting a section on the door will require bigger sprngs, which are available from garage door companies. You need to weigh the door, then buy two springs with total pull equal to the weight of the door. I did it and a regular opener works just fine.
 

GR8_ASP

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I have torsional springs. The door company I worked with checked the specs and determined that the 8 ft wide door needed a new torsional spring setup. I wanted that anyway as the original springs were extension springs and I am uncomfortable with extension springs (when they break they fly around the garage!). The 16 ft door torsional springs were already okay and needed no change. The force naturally increases as a result of being extended or twisted more due to the extra travel. As long as the springs have adequate travel and load capacity (not force but strength) it should be okay. The simple test is can the springs be adjusted such that the door is near neutral weight. Changing panel weights (insulated versus uninsulated, etc) should drive new springs. Overall it is not rocket science and any decent door company can set you up for a reasonable cost. My costs were about $200 to add a panel to a door. About $150 for the panel and the rest for the hardware.
 

MannyC

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I got a guy out here that will be doing each of my garage doors for $550 - includes labor, extra door section, rails, spring, etc. Not bad. I am having both of my garage doors done (4 car garage.) Cytech lifts coming soon.

manny
 

jk

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I had this done on a single metal garage door. They raised the door opener to the ceiling and positioned to one side, attaching the arm from the chain to the top corner of the door. Evidently on a single garage door the opener will still function without racking the door when it is pulling from the side of the door (not true for a double garage door). They did NOT add a door panel and I am not sure why you would need an extra panel unless you are changing the actual door frame opening height, anyway. The extension tracks they installed transition to a 45 degree ramp at the top of the door until it hits the ceiling where it turns horizontal and then hugs the ceiling all the way back. He also swapped out the extension springs for the torsional springs, which I agree, is a much safer route to go. Total cost of the mods was about $350. My ceiling height is 110 inches and I am using the Cytech lift.
 

GR8_ASP

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JK can you show a picture of what yours looks like? I am interested to see how they did it without the extra panel. For mine the panel was needed so the opener attachment to the door was higher.

This is what mine looked like after I did the small door last year. You can see the difference between the doors and the track positions.
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