Gen III side sill removal?

TommyG

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I had the woodhouse motor/trans mounts put in a few weeks back and I think in raising the motor my driver side corsa could have loosened a bit from Random tech cat or header. I say this because now when cold, the tip is off center and closer to back side of opening.

When the corsa plumps/extends it is milimeters from touching the back part of opening.

Anyone have pics of side sill removal? The mechanic works mostly on vettes and I tried to search under the member section but could not find any pics?
 

CPPRHD265

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Here's a quick snap showing the only "hidden" bolts.

It's really easy except the forward 10mm nut inside the vent area...

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Those red lines show the aprox position of the threaded studs that have 10mm nuts holding the upper part of the forward sidesill to the car. The first time getting the forward one off is a true PIA. Most folks dremel out the notch in the plastic as shown on mine, so in the future you can get a thinwall deep socket up there from the outside.

Every other screw is easily accessable. It's just those two that can be a *****. You do NOT need to remove them completely, just enough to let the sidesill drop a bit and slide off as the sill is notched where the studs go.
 

Art 138

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Or you can loosen the wheel well liners and move them out of the way...two plastic screws at 12 o'clock position need to be removed along with two center bolts....once you remove them and the screws which affix to the sill at the well....the plastic well liner can be moved forward.....you should be able to access the 10mm nut head in this position...
 
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I would get a plug for that hole also because you will get an amazing amount of junk down into the sill. You could burn some of it or at least rattle around enough to drive you crazy.
 

CPPRHD265

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Rattle around you say?!? Kinda like the relay I found in the drivers side sill when I took it off? I guess my previous "Viper Tech" dropped it down there, and rather than take the time to get it out, he just grabbed another relay from the parts bin to pop in.

Sigh... still rather annoyed at finding all his little screwups.

I have been checking for a proper rubber plug, but I've not found one suitable yet. I may have to improvise a little unless someone has found something already?
 

Art 138

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I have been checking for a proper rubber plug, but I've not found one suitable yet. I may have to improvise a little unless someone has found something already?

I took some left over 3m clear bra and covered the hole....it stays very firm and can be removed easily....had it on my Mamba without issues.
 

Hamrhead

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Thanks to ALL for the photo's and feedback. I will pass it on.
Yes - Good Info. Thanks.

The more info the better IMO, as I have Woodhouse Mounts and Corsa/Roe HF Cats sitting here.

If my local Viper Tech doesn't want to do the job, I'll be tackling it.:)
 

Viper X

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I use black Gorilla tape to cover those holes - works pretty well.
 

CPPRHD265

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Thanks for the heads up on the 3M / Tape option... Honestly, I hasn't even considered it! I was always checking out the little "HELP!" sections of the auto parts stores hoping to run across a rubber plug :)

Hamrhead: You have access to the illustrated section, use it and save yourself some money... The motor mounts are really a *****, not because they are difficult to install, it's the amount of stuff you need to remove to jack the motor up. I'd say it took me 2 to 3 hours just to get the motor prepped for raising, and like 15 minutes each side to install the mounts.

Just some tips from someone who just did it in their garage on jackstands. Have some 2x4 sections around for blocking/jacking the motor, maybe a few 2 or 3 foot sections to spread out the preassure so as not to damage the pan.

Blue painters tape works well to hold stuff up and out of the way. Specifically the coolant tank on the passenger side, and the fuse box assembly on the drivers side. I just taped them back out of the way.

Have an air powered impact wrench, my factory motor mounts could not have been any tighter unless they were welded in. I tried a socket wrench with a 3 foot cheater bar to no avail, the impact wrench had them off in seconds.

Try to get the mounts in with the locator buttons intact at first... Who knows, you may be one of the lucky 10% that can so it! I couldn't get it to align right, and had to grind it off at the direction of mjorgensen (I called him when I couldn't get it to line up right away).

Be careful when your taking off the black plastic shroud around the lower windshield. It's in two pieces with the rubber seal connecting them, you can rip the rubber if your not careful... The plastic on that piece is also very brittle. I found that my prevous viper tech managed to break both tabs at the doors, and the center screw point on it :(

Other than that, I followed some of the instructions in the private section.
 
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