Grinding noise from pass. rear side

[dsg03svt]

Hey guys,

I just got my 04 vert not long ago and noticed the other day there is a fairly loud grinding noise coming from the rear passenger side of the car. The noise is not apparent at idle but can be heard when rolling at slow speeds, both in and out of gear. The grinding noise gets progressively more repetitive as speed increases, to the point where it's consistently grinding at a certain speed. However, as I pick up speed road noise is more pronounced and I cannot hear the grinding as well.

My guess is something to do with the brake pads, but I could be way off... The car has around 13,500 miles on it. I am planning on taking it to Dodge tomorrow but would like to be able to sleep easier tonight, knowing what to expect tomorrow. Car is still under extended warranty, which I'm sure if it's brake pads, it will not cover.

Thanks in advance!!

-Kyle

 

[hd13]

I had the something similar happen and it was my right rear rotor, it was cracked.

 

[dsg03svt]

I had the something similar happen and it was my right rear rotor, it was cracked.

Would that be covered under warranty? Seems as though that wouldn't be "normal" wear and tear...

Would I be able to see this by just looking at it? Everything appears normal visually.

 

[1HOTV10]

Possibly the inner pad on the parking brake.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Put it up on a lift, examind it with wheels on and off...and, don't completely rule out the diff.

When were the fluids changed??

 

[spmorgan]

It was the inner parking break pad on my 03 w/ 35K.

 

[dsg03svt]

Turns out it is the inner parking brake. Seems like it's not even there any more... It did rough up the inside rotor a little bit. Enough to feel and see a different texture.

Would you guys think I need to have the rotor turned or would it be ok to put in a new pad and let it smooth itself out.

Also, my dodge dealerships here in SA don't have any in stock and say they are backordered till mid-december... Also, they say the part is $113.30 and includes the two pads, a bracket, and a bolt. Does this seem like the correct part?

Thanks,

-Kyle

 

[ViperGeorge]

Unless you were driving with the parking brake on I would look for some root cause as to why the parking brake wore out. Had a similar problem with my ebrake on my 06 and my tech replaced rear hubs because of bad bearings and tie rod ends. Bad bearings allowed the rotor to walk a little and wear out the ebrake pad or at least that is what I was told. If you have an extended warranty the hubs and tie rods are probably covered not the ebrake pads.

 

[dsg03svt]

Unless you were driving with the parking brake on I would look for some root cause as to why the parking brake wore out. Had a similar problem with my ebrake on my 06 and my tech replaced rear hubs because of bad bearings and tie rod ends. Bad bearings allowed the rotor to walk a little and wear out the ebrake pad or at least that is what I was told. If you have an extended warranty the hubs and tie rods are probably covered not the ebrake pads.

Gotcha! I'll be sure to have it checked out. It was strange to me that the pad would wear to nothing with only 13k on the odometer...

 

[dsg03svt]

Unless you were driving with the parking brake on I would look for some root cause as to why the parking brake wore out. Had a similar problem with my ebrake on my 06 and my tech replaced rear hubs because of bad bearings and tie rod ends. Bad bearings allowed the rotor to walk a little and wear out the ebrake pad or at least that is what I was told. If you have an extended warranty the hubs and tie rods are probably covered not the ebrake pads.

Not sure if you saw the thread I posted about the warranty issue but the warranty is up in the air at the moment.

How would I check if this was the case for my car?
If it was the same issue, how hard would the install be to do on my own? I have some mechanical know-how and no lack of tools...

 

[dsg03svt]

UPDATE: Went out and checked the hub today. I did notice after taking the wheel off and pulling on the brake rotor there was certainly some play in the rotor.

A few questions:
1. What size socket is the hub? (Car is an 04, in an older thread ViperSpecialty says this is an odd year and is a 13/16. I tried a 13/16 and it is way too small. I'm assuming he meant 1 13/16. Is this correct?)
2. Do I need to torque to 190 ft/lbs or 300 ft/lbs? I've seen both posted on this board.
3. Do I just need to re-torque the hub bolt and replace the inner ebrake pad or is there anything else I need to check?

Thanks VCA to getting me this far. Search is my friend.

Thanks

 

[ViperGeorge]

Not sure if you saw the thread I posted about the warranty issue but the warranty is up in the air at the moment.

How would I check if this was the case for my car?
If it was the same issue, how hard would the install be to do on my own? I have some mechanical know-how and no lack of tools...

I didn't do the work myself but I'm guessing it isn't too hard if you have the right tools. Call Chuck Tator for better advice. He can answer your questions and give you more thorough advice on causes and fixes.

 

[dsg03svt]

RE-UPDATE:
I actually called Chuck Tator, who was extremely helpful, and told me that pulling on the rotors with the wheels off the car is not correct. (There should be a little slack between the hub and rotor when the wheels are not torqued on the assembly) He said the way to check the bearings are with the tires on and pushing in and out at 6 and 12. I did just this and I could not feel any movement, but heard a very faint knocking noise when rocking it back and forth. I did the same thing to the other side and did not hear anything...

If the bearings are bad, how much play should you see in the test I performed above? Is any knocking noise grounds for bad bearings?

Also, Chuck said the ebrake caliper is the culprit for the ebrake pad wearing down. He's worked on about 3 of these that had the same problem and surprisingly all happened on the passenger side of the vehicle. I believe he said the caliper had "fallen" and that basically each time the ebrake was used it pulled the pad closer to the rotor without allowing it to fully disengage. (*Chuck if your reading this and I'm completely explaining it wrong, chip in)

My concern is now where do I start?

Do I fork out the cash for a new hub, new ebrake caliper, and used set of ebrake pads?
Going to try JonB to see if he has a good condition used ebrake caliper and hub but I wanted to get your guys take on the whole deal.

Thanks

 

[dsg03svt]

I've removed the culprit ebrake caliper and was wondering if there are any tests I can perform that would show signs if the caliper is in fact, not functioning properly.

Also, although I removed the caliper, the lines that run to it are still there. There is one that you can see the metal cable that is just dangling. There is another that attaches to right behind the hub to some teeth. I believe the first one that isn't attached to anything is the engagement line for the ebrake but what is the 2nd one that attaches behind the hub for?

Is it ok to drive with that ebrake caliper not there and the lines still connected? I've fastened the dangling metal cable to the one that connects behind the hub.

 

[Venomiss]

Pictures? and sent you a PM with some information that might be helpful for you.

 

[dsg03svt]

Pictures? and sent you a PM with some information that might be helpful for you.

Didn't take any. I can snap a few tomorrow. I need a new digital camera, mine broke and my iphone doesn't have flash... Dumb iPhone!

 

[ViperGeorge]

If you performed the bearing check in the manner Chuck suggested and there was no movement I would say you are probably ok. Did you look at the tie rods in the rear to see if they had excess play when you tug on the wheel? I'd also get a shop manual for the car if you don't have one, it would be a good investment. VCA members get a discount on the manuals. VCA HQ can tell you who to call to order one if you don't already don't have one.

 

[dsg03svt]

If you performed the bearing check in the manner Chuck suggested and there was no movement I would say you are probably ok. Did you look at the tie rods in the rear to see if they had excess play when you tug on the wheel? I'd also get a shop manual for the car if you don't have one, it would be a good investment. VCA members get a discount on the manuals. VCA HQ can tell you who to call to order one if you don't already don't have one.

not sure what you mean by excess play on the tie rods when tugging on the wheel. I didn't have any movement on anything when pulling on the wheel. what is the proper way to check the tie rods?