GTS clutch pedal

[70chall440]

this may seem like a very dumb question however...

I just bought a pedal lower kit and it came with directions how how to adjust the pedals. My question is why lower the clutch pedal?

 

[GeneralLee]

Because it has a huge throw.....

Has anyone ever came up with a solution for the extremely long clutch throw? I have the Roe reducer...but it was very minimal. My buddy has an 06 GTO with the T56 and his clutch throw is nice and short...I know it has a hydraulic TO bearing like ours...any other reasons for the long throw?

 

[SSSSE YA]

I also have the roe kit works great and gives a little more room for the dogs to rest.

 

[chimazo]

You know, there's a thread somewhere that tells you how you can adjust each pedal separately, so you can just lower the clutch pedal and not the others.

If I can find it, I'll post the link...

 

[70chall440]

I saw that thread in the how to section.

 

[Iceman]

Even if you adjust the pedals independently the distance you have to push the cluth in is the same. I do have the Roe lowering kit but the difference is really minimal.

What we need is a way to change the ratio dramatically. About half the distance that it travels now I think would be cool.

 

[Kmrumedy]

Would love to find a solution to this. It is my only real issue with the car. I have to sit up closer than I would like just so I can press the clutch in far enough.

 

[Iceman]

Now that I think about it, this is a hydraulic system so how about convincing Big Brake Dave to manufacture basically a larger cylinder to push the fluid? This way the travel could theoretically be reduced by 50%.

I sure would buy that.

 

[dave6666]

All of the methods to shorten throw will proportionately increase the actuating pressure at the pedal. Now granted, a little bit here for a little bit there would be tolerable, but would the throw cut in half with the force doubled be fun in traffic?

 

[01ACR/VIPER]

I made my own replacement actuator bar for mine.It`s 1/4"Tx3/4"Wx5-5/8"L alum. flat bar with two 1/2" holes in it on 4 3/4" centers.This droped my pedal a good 2" or more.Now my brake and clutch pedal are perfectly in line with one another.

PS:I noticed no harder push on the pedal.

 

[dave6666]

I made my own replacement actuator bar for mine.It`s 1/4"Tx3/4"Wx5-5/8"L alum. flat bar with two 1/2" holes in it on 4 3/4" centers.This droped my pedal a good 2" or more.Now my brake and clutch pedal are perfectly in line with one another.

PS:I noticed no harder push on the pedal.

Did it shorten the throw? Or just lower the pedal?

 

[Iceman]

I think the actuator bars just lower the pedal. In my opinion the Viper clutch is way too light to begin with so making it twice as hard to push down would be no big deal.

My old 1990 mustang GT clutch effort was probably 3-4 times what the viper is. Now that was a real clutch...

 

[01ACR/VIPER]

Did it shorten the throw? Or just lower the pedal?

Hey Dave,What it does is get rid of ALL the slop before the clutch begins to actuate the master cylinder.I would say the throw is a little less due to changing the geometry of the linkage.The pedal is quite a bit lower and SEEMS to act quiker.(And your knee does not ram your chin every time you bang a gear )

 

[dave6666]

The clutch is in the bell housing. That is what makes it real. The pedal assembly is just a means to work the clutch.

Using the same analogy as on "real" clutch, you could say that only wimps use a jack to change tires. "Real" men hold the car up without an assistance assembly. Like a jack.

Now I don't disagree that the clutch is light to push, but it is comfortable in traffic.

 

[dave6666]

Hey Dave,What it does is get rid of ALL the slop before the clutch begins to actuate the master cylinder.I would say the throw is a little less due to changing the geometry of the linkage.The pedal is quite a bit lower and SEEMS to act quiker.(And your knee does not ram your chin every time you bang a gear )

And what you are saying might fit in to the little bit of this for a little bit of that department.

I know in hydraulics, like the clutch master cylinder change that was suggested, if you double the surface area of the piston, it takes twice the mechanical force to generate identical hydraulic pressure values. You just move the piston half the distance, hence shorter throw.

 

[01ACR/VIPER]

And what you are saying might fit in to the little bit of this for a little bit of that department.

I know in hydraulics, like the clutch master cylinder change that was suggested, if you double the surface area of the piston, it takes twice the mechanical force to generate identical hydraulic pressure values. You just move the piston half the distance, hence shorter throw.

I would have to say no.If you double the area,It will take half the distance to push the same amount of oil at a given pressure.The only way it would get harder is if the area doubled in the same stroke.(the fluid has to go somewhere)

 

[dave6666]

I would have to say no.If you double the area,It will take half the distance to push the same amount of oil at a given pressure.The only way it would get harder is if the area doubled in the same stroke.(the fluid has to go somewhere)

I would study hydraulics a bit more.

The resistance encountered ie: the slave cylinder, has not been altered. Therefore, the volume of fluid to do the work and build pressure remains the same. Its the way you get the fluid pressure there that is varying. Double the surface area of the piston means half the piston stoke. You are still needing to move the same amount of fluid.

The force required to move the piston has a relationship to the what the fluid is connected to on the other end. If you doubled the surface area of the slave cylinder too, net result would be no change. Well, with the exception of you are now squirting twice the fluid through the hose between them.

But we didn't change the slave cylinder...

 

[01ACR/VIPER]

But we didn't change the slave cylinder...

Yeah,But your the one that said if we double the area?

 

[dave6666]

Yeah,But your the one that said if we double the area?

OK. Maybe we have a misunderstanding here.

This whole debate started when someone started suggesting modifying the clutch master cylinder. I have been discussing the effects of that.

If at some point it has been thought or suggested that the slave cylinder was also being altered, then I apologize.

 

[01ACR/VIPER]

OK. Maybe we have a misunderstanding here.

This whole debate started when someone started suggesting modifying the clutch master cylinder. I have been discussing the effects of that.

If at some point it has been thought or suggested that the slave cylinder was also being altered, then I apologize.

Do you have the shortened actuator bar?If not i will send ya one.I`m just that kind a guy.

 

[CANTDRIVE55]

Dave and 01ACR/Viper:

Look up Bernoull'i Principle for the physics explanation of Dave's explanation!!

 

[dave6666]

Dave and 01ACR/Viper:

Look up Bernoull'i Principle for the physics explanation of Dave's explanation!!

I prefer just to use basic mechanical principles. The math equations are shorter.

And as far as the clutch link part... I was going to install that along with my fuel line magnet. I thinking sub 9's for sure when I get those mods done!

 

[70chall440]

Ok, so is someone saying that the shortened bar is not worth doing?? I am now confused...

 

[Iceman]

On the later models the pedal height can be adjusted individually so yes, the bar does basically nothing.

 

[70chall440]

Define "later" models

 

[dave6666]

Ok, so is someone saying that the shortened bar is not worth doing?? I am now confused...

1. If the clutch is currently satisfactory to you, why mess with it?

2. It is a inexpensive part. Put it on, and if you don't like it, remove it. Then post you have one and mail it to someone on the forum that has not tried it.

 

[TMan]

For now I am an Enthusiast, but in my search for my Viper, I have found that my knee hits the dash when I release the clutch. There was plenty of travel, actually to much, so adjusting it lower wouldn't affect whether it would release fully.

I'm 6'4" and my first thought was, Would I fit? I appreciate the info I am reading, the clutch lowering kit would be one of the first mods.

 

[dave6666]

For now I am an Enthusiast, but in my search for my Viper, I have found that my knee hits the dash when I release the clutch. There was plenty of travel, actually to much, so adjusting it lower wouldn't affect whether it would release fully.

I'm 6'4" and my first thought was, Would I fit? I appreciate the info I am reading, the clutch lowering kit would be one of the first mods.

I'm 6' 4-1/2" and I feel your pain. I lowered the seat 1" and have not messed with the pedals. I'm curious if my heel would drag on the carpet to still keep the ball of my foot on the clutch, if I lowered the pedal.

I mean, is that something for the tall person to do?

 

[TMan]

I really thought lowering the pedal was actually just shortening the throw so it doesn't release so high off the floor.

 

[99 R/T 10]

I really thought lowering the pedal was actually just shortening the throw so it doesn't release so high off the floor.

What you need is a 97 RT/10, keep the top off and add a lowering kit for the seat! I'll throw in the lowering seat bracket if you buy my car:

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