Installing Headers. Questions.

[MAMBA]

I'm thinking of installing a set of Belanger headers on my 95 RT/10 myself. I've done a considerable amount of automotive mechanical work so I'm confident I can do it. I just have a few questions for those that have already done it.
01. Are the heat shields just held in place by the nuts on the top exhaust manifold bolts?
02. What is the easiest way to get to the bottom exhaust manifold bolts?
03. Should I disconnect the exhaust and manifold joint first?
04. What will I need to connect the header exhaust flange to the stock exhaust flange or is there another piece required to replace the stock flanged flex joint?
04. Finally, are there any secrets I should know to make it easier besides patience, patience, patience?
Thanks for the help.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

01. Are the heat shields just held in place by the nuts on the top exhaust manifold bolts?

Answer: Yes...just the ones on the top, but if you plan on keeping them, be careful taking them out and watch your fingers...there are sharp edges that will cut you.. I would recommend wearing leather shop gloves.

02. What is the easiest way to get to the bottom exhaust manifold bolts?

Answer: From the top side.

03. Should I disconnect the exhaust and manifold joint first?

Answer, Yes, you're going to need to do it anyways..so it will make your job easier and the sheild will come out easier.


04. What will I need to connect the header exhaust flange to the stock exhaust flange or is there another piece required to replace the stock flanged flex joint?

Answer: I think most headers have the flanges.. You may need an adaptor depending on size pipe you have.


04. Finally, are there any secrets I should know to make it easier besides patience, patience, patience?

Answer: Yes there is one important thing you need to know about your header bolts. If you can, I would get the ARP studs to put back your exhaust. If you decide to do it with the stock bolts, make sure you get a thread chaser to get out the aluminum dust or small pieces inside the threads of the block. If you don't you may end up taking a chance of stripping the aluminum threads when installing your bolts back in. It's a safty precaution to make sure the threads are clean on the inside of the block. If you use the ARP stud for the manifold, you will only have to install them once and they will ensure that you won't have any leaks. Make sure you get the metal gasket and also follow the torque sequence. It's not really a hard job to do, just take your time and think it out. Also you are going to want to take your sidesills off.

Also take your hood off so you don't beak your back and have your car lifted off the ground.

good luck!

Adam
Thanks for the help.

 

[MAMBA]

Thanks Adam. Your help is appreciated. I will go with the ARP studs. Where can I get them?
When you say disconnecting the exhaust from the exhaust manifold flange will make removing the shield easier, do you mean the manifold heat shields? I would think they would be removed from the top.
My biggest concern is getting good access to the lower exhaust manifold bolts. Do you use a ratchet,universal and socket?
Thanks.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

yes, universal sockets will help. You can get at all the bolts from the top. if you remover the compression clap at the end of the stock headers you will be able to move the headers around more easily.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

oh, summit should have every thing you need.

 

[Jack B]

A couple of tips:

1. Use a little bit of anti-seize after using a a thread chaser. Be careful, there is a difference between a tap and a thread chaser. This is if you do not use the studs. I have to look at the clearance as it relates to the use of studs. I have done the Balengers several times and I don't know if studs give you enough clearance to get the headers seated. Can someone comment about the studs.

2. Mount the headers loose with all bolts attached, then, bolt the collector up loose, finally tighten/torque the headers. If you use the anti-seize reduce the torque by ten percent.

3. Use a 3" copper collector gasket. Most of the header manufacturers will tell you to merely use the machined flange and not use a gasket - it will leak.

4. Make sure you use the latest Mopar header/head gasket, not the gasket supplied by the header supplier, unless it is the Mopar version.

 

[JWVIPER]

DOes anyone know if the Gen I belanger headers bolt directly to the ROE side exhaust ?

I have been told the ROe exhaust bolts directly to the stock manifold exhaust and I have been told the belangers mount to the stock side exhaust so you would think the answer is ,

Yes........but does any one know for sure ?

 

[Jack B]

No matter what you do, you will have to get the Balenger turn-out (90). It is 3" and it will have to be mated to what you have in the sill. It is usually an easy task. Any good muffler shop can expand a pipe. What lurks in the sill will answer your question.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

If you aren't already planning to, remove heater intake and blower on passenger side. Be careful with the two small studs holding airbox down. Also, the plugs under the blower are a pain if the wires are routed under the A/C tubes.

The lower manifold bolts are easy, just wait until you remove the shield and you can see them. You may need shorter bolts if the header flange is thinner - or studs. Both manifolds come out going upwards. It's way easier than it all looks, since the shields hide so much. They are really quite bendable, plan on yanking to get them out if they've been pressed around the cast iron manifold.

Jon sent me this a while ago, it was pretty helpful. And mostly accurate, too, but I think he had a Gen 2

-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Azevedo
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2002 12:42 AM
To: 'Tom'
Cc:
Subject: RE: Viper shorty headers




On the drivers side -- Remove ignition wires, pull off heat shields around spark plugs, remove line from intake to brake booster an put the to side. Loosen 3 bolts holding the heat shield on. Pry heat shield back ( don't have to remove it though) Using a 1/2 deep socket take off all the nuts on the exhaust manifold. It will be a tight squeeze in some area's as you will wrestle with getting the ratchet in behind the heat shield. I have found a 1/4 drive ratchet to be the best with a deep 1/2 " socket ( 1/4 air ratchet even better). As they are loosening watch to make sure the exhaust manifold gasket doesn't drop and hit the starter ( will spark like a son of *****). The header comes out from the top, it will require a little wiggling but will come out by lowering the front side down and pulling back side out first. I actually usually take the valve cover off on customer cars to make sure I don't scratch it but it can be done without removing it, I do this only as a safety precaution.

I recommend draining the coolant. This is done by removing a Hex head bolt on the drivers side bottom of the rad.

ON the passenger side remove black heater box cover held on by 2 10 mm bolts and tat the top 2 screws or some cars have 2 8 mm(5/16) bolts. Once this is out of the way you will see the blower motor ( heater fan) where it enters the body you will see a foam trim piece there is a small Phillips head screw jammed in the foam area remove it. Down the on the side of the blower motor is 2 10 mm bolts on a bracket attached to the frame remove them (or the 8 mm bolts that hold it to the frame it is up to you). You will now be able to lift the blower motor up to get at 2 electrical plugs. Undue them one is to the blower resistor and the other to the motor. They have little squeeze tongs.

With blower motor out of the way you can now proceed to remove antifreeze tank. first remove hoses from the side of it. Unclip the metal portion from the fender well and push both to the front of the car. Remove three 7/16 (11mm) bolts holding the bottle to the fender (one is at the bottom below the ac lines kind of hidden). With bottle loose lift up bottle and using pliers squeeze clamp holding hose to lower side of the bottle and move it further down the hose and remove hose from bottle and remove bottle

You now have a choice You can start removing the exhaust manifold same as the drivers side or I usually remove the heater line running along the valve cover. This will allow you even more room to work. This is done by removing the 2-7/16 bolts holding it on, one will require a deep socket or a wrench it also holds the plastic ignition wire retainers. One it is loose from the valve cover you can proceed to remove the hoses from either end of the metal tubes.

Removing the hoses can be tough at times as the stick to the inlets. I usually use a small slot screw driver to pry in-between inlet and the rubber hose.

PS -- some of these steps can be skipped but this will give you maximum room to work an eliminate some frustration.