Key FOB Transmitter

[Cobraken]

My '02 FE GTS only came with one key & transmitter. I found a transmitter from my old '02. Can it be programmed to use with the FE. Local Dodge dealer says it can't & I'll have to buy a new one for $73.00 if I want two. Anyone know?

 

[SuperSaiks]

They can be reprogrammed, but the instructions thus far given are a little confusing... So I would to appreciate if someone would be able to step by step explain how.
thanks

 

[Asp Man]

First, open the windows.

From the manual:

(1) Disarm Electronic Entry Module (EEM). Refer to Group 8Q, Vehilce Theft System for disarming procedure. ((just unlock it with the working remote))

(2) Ground Pin C13 of EEM J3 connector (6 inch green pigtail wire located at the EEM)(which is under the dash, on the tunnel, underneath the instrument panel) ((Find a suitable ground with a multi meter, the pigtail is obvious once you are under there))

(3) Turn ignition switch to the RUN position.

to program the transmitter

(1) Reciever acknowledges programing mode by the flashing Alarm Set LED located on the top, center of the instrument panel

(2) Send transmitter code be pressing either button on the transmitter for approximately 10 seconds. A successful programming will be acknowledged with a triple horn chirp. Repeat for both transmitters. All transmitters MUST be reprogrammed at this time.

NOTE: Program mode will time out if no valid transmitter code is recieved within 60 seconds. The timer resets after each successful transmitter programming.

 

[Cobraken]

Thanks Asp Man

 

[Asp Man]

No prob. It's not as hard as the dealer makes it out to be, once you have the knee bolster off it is pretty obvious, the box is held on with a sort of bungee strap, the green pigtail may be taped to the harness leading into the box.
The dealer is just watching the bottom line, chances are that they'd want you to leave the car with them for the day, too, so that some flunkie "tech" could take it for a test bag and wrap it around a lamp standard.

 

[Bolt]

First, open the windows.

From the manual:

(1) Disarm Electronic Entry Module (EEM). Refer to Group 8Q, Vehilce Theft System for disarming procedure. ((just unlock it with the working remote))

(2) Ground Pin C13 of EEM J3 connector (6 inch green pigtail wire located at the EEM)(which is under the dash, on the tunnel, underneath the instrument panel) ((Find a suitable ground with a multi meter, the pigtail is obvious once you are under there))

(3) Turn ignition switch to the RUN position.

to program the transmitter

(1) Reciever acknowledges programing mode by the flashing Alarm Set LED located on the top, center of the instrument panel

(2) Send transmitter code be pressing either button on the transmitter for approximately 10 seconds. A successful programming will be acknowledged with a triple horn chirp. Repeat for both transmitters. All transmitters MUST be reprogrammed at this time.

NOTE: Program mode will time out if no valid transmitter code is recieved within 60 seconds. The timer resets after each successful transmitter programming.

Certain pieces of information is extremely valuable on this discussion forum. This post is one of the most valuable. Thank you asp man for posting this detailed information. I replaced my receiver and got new remotes and this got me up and running. The only problem I am having now is getting the duplicate remotes to work on the same signal. I can get each remote to work with this procedure but I can not get all remotes to work together.

Bolt

 

[Bolt]

I tried this but the other remotes will not work as per this proceedure.

Done:

1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.

2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.

2A. (1999 ~ 2000) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC. (9/30 update...Ron found out that DLC is the Data Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee)

2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.

Hint, Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.

3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!

4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:

- Have the wrong wire

- Aren't solidly grounded

- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.

5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.

5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.

Hint: Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.

6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.

That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.

I've done 4 FOBS myself and found it quite easy once you find the green wire.

I took mine to my Viper tech-took him maybe 5 minutes and he didn't charge me any $$$

Bill

 

[Bolt]

I got it!

On the genII after programing the first remote you must hold down BOTH THE UNLOCK AND LOCK buttons together to program the remaining remotes before turning the key off.

Noted above either button must be pushed. This does not work.

Again, Thank you everyone who has posted this detailed information.


Bolt

 

[Venom-US]

http://forums.viperclub.org/showthread.php?t=557774

 

[Asp Man]

I got it!

On the genII after programing the first remote you must hold down BOTH THE UNLOCK AND LOCK buttons together to program the remaining remotes before turning the key off.

Noted above either button must be pushed. This does not work.

Again, Thank you everyone who has posted this detailed information.


Bolt

I'm glad someone worked it out and posted the correction back here. I just pulled the info out of my service manual, which we (now) all know isn't 100% correct!
If just one person avoids getting burned at the dealer, my work has been done!
I think that there is a limit to the number of remotes on one car, as well. 4, I think(?).