Let's see your upgraded Crankcase Ventilation System

BOTTLEFED

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After the problems with my motor I want to be sure I have a killer PCV setup. I have been trying to find a way to have plenty of venting but not have giant hoses running all over the engine bay for breathing.

I don't do much racing; maybe occasional drag runs and a road course a couple times a year.
As you can see in my sig, I have a Roe and some other mods.

So I just wanted to see what some of you have done.
Please post pics and/or describe in detail how your system is setup.
:eater:
thanks,
Tim
 

Fast Too

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I capped the PCV connection on the manifold, tee fitted my valve cover hoses together and ran them to a catch can.
 

FATHERFORD

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Great writeup from Damn Yankee on the PBJ unit here:
http://forums.viperclub.org/illustr...e-breather-system-puke-tank-photos-guide.html

Dave's Big Brakes engine breather system (my favorite) here: Engine &Transmission

I don't understand this setup. This removes any source of vacuum present from the factory setup. It's just an open element.

Not sure how much vacuum the factory setup pulls, but it does pull some. 12" seems to be the sweet spot without pulling to much oil mist from the wrist pins.
 

chimazo

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I'm pretty sure that the initial purpose of crankcase breathers/PCV's, etc., was for emissions purposes, thus the need for vacuum. Initially, the fumes/oil mist was just vented to atmosphere or dumped on the ground, then as emissions controls came in, the excess oil fumes were re-routed and burned.

Obviously, for blown and other applications, the purpose isn't emissions-related, but to avoid oil pooling in the intake or burning of oil blowby, as well as relieving the increased pressure in the crankcase (particularly in the case of FI). Most will tell you that if you're not pushing out the dipstick, then you shouldn't be worrying about too much pressure.

Many just go back to the old days and use valve cover breathers, as well as simply routing hoses to the ground (more environmentally friendly to use a catch can, but not necessary), ditching the PCV since it's now useless.
 
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BOTTLEFED

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Thanks for the input guys
:D

I'm kinda thinking like FATHERFORD
A vaccuum in the system would be nice. However, I agree with chimazo that a vac. is not necessary and that it was just added for emissions purposes.
My main concern is just getting as much pressure out of the crankcase as possible. I want to be sure that I don't have to worry about the blowby not having anywhere to go.


So here's what I'm thinking for an "over-kill" system that will evacuate all pressure in the crankcase.
I'll use the same setup as DamnYankee, with the exception of the breather. I will run a hose to the airbox from the catchcan to create a vac. in the can to help evacuate all pressure.
I don't think DY's setup is flawed, I just want the extra vac. there for piece of mind.

For backup I'll add a traditional breather to the top of each valve cover - something small but adequate.
 

RTTTTed

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If you could actually evacuate all the positive pressure from the crankcase the "effective" compression ratio would be higher without the problems caused by detonation allowing more advanced timing. A vacuum in the crankcase would actually **** the pistons down and create hp - not likely in real life. There's too much 'blowby' past the rings to get a vacuum in real life. Breather's are OK for relieving excessive pressure, but not recommended. The PCV works well and would help remove a little of the crankcase pressure.

My car has a vacuum pump mounted beside the radiator. The valve cover breather hole has been enlarged for a bigger than stock fitting and 5/8" ID braided hose to the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump uses another 5/8" braided hose to the 'puke tank' mounted beside the rad on the driver's side near the bottom. The puke tanks drain **** is attainable from under the car and easy to drain. This daiphram vacuum pump ***** so much air that when it's on air can be heard rushing into the oil dipstick tube when the dipstick's pulled out.

This is the best system I've seen, looks good and I expect that it adds probably about 5+hp. I'd include a pic, but all that's visible is the fitting and hose leaving the valve cover and it disappears down beside the cover.

Fatherford's illustrated system is a Racing system and uses a corvette (or similar type) 3/4" PCV welded into the header collectors at an angle creating a vacuum at the tube opening. The Pollution Control Valve is to protect the engine by closing off in case of a backfire which could blow out all your gaskets if the flame gets to the oil fumes in the crakcase. Usually 1 badkfire and the PCV blows out however. This system is OK on a race car where Blue smoke out the exhaust is OK, but in a street application it has a tendency to **** oil droplets out of the engine and cause the smoke at the tailpipes. Definitely will not pass any emissions test. Also may get you pulled for a pollution test when blue smoke seen coming from your tailpipe, in some areas.

Ted
 

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These are the types we use.

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treesnake

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I used two JMB performance (PBJ) breathers attched to the cross member.
new_engine_0031.jpg
 

FATHERFORD

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If you could actually evacuate all the positive pressure from the crankcase the "effective" compression ratio would be higher without the problems caused by detonation allowing more advanced timing. A vacuum in the crankcase would actually **** the pistons down and create hp - not likely in real life. There's too much 'blowby' past the rings to get a vacuum in real life. Breather's are OK for relieving excessive pressure, but not recommended. The PCV works well and would help remove a little of the crankcase pressure.

My car has a vacuum pump mounted beside the radiator. The valve cover breather hole has been enlarged for a bigger than stock fitting and 5/8" ID braided hose to the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump uses another 5/8" braided hose to the 'puke tank' mounted beside the rad on the driver's side near the bottom. The puke tanks drain **** is attainable from under the car and easy to drain. This daiphram vacuum pump ***** so much air that when it's on air can be heard rushing into the oil dipstick tube when the dipstick's pulled out.

This is the best system I've seen, looks good and I expect that it adds probably about 5+hp. I'd include a pic, but all that's visible is the fitting and hose leaving the valve cover and it disappears down beside the cover.

Fatherford's illustrated system is a Racing system and uses a corvette (or similar type) 3/4" PCV welded into the header collectors at an angle creating a vacuum at the tube opening. The Pollution Control Valve is to protect the engine by closing off in case of a backfire which could blow out all your gaskets if the flame gets to the oil fumes in the crakcase. Usually 1 badkfire and the PCV blows out however. This system is OK on a race car where Blue smoke out the exhaust is OK, but in a street application it has a tendency to **** oil droplets out of the engine and cause the smoke at the tailpipes. Definitely will not pass any emissions test. Also may get you pulled for a pollution test when blue smoke seen coming from your tailpipe, in some areas.

Ted


That setup I shown is used on many mustang TT setups. I haven't heard of any issues of not passing emmissions. Then again with TT mustangs usually a little oil drop here and there is the least of their problems when it comes for inspection time. I know I personally have never seen any blue smoke come out of my tail pipes with this setup. So weather emmissions would be a problem:dunno:

Also, when I was doing a little part time out at the machine shop in my teenage years, when putting 10-12" of vacuum on some healthy v8 engines we noticed upwards of 15-25hp at the flywheel on the engine dyno. This was using a vacuum pump.

Using the method I had in the drawing on boosted mustangs Pushrod/mod motors both, I have seen 21". Which you need to put a valve in to "bleed" off the vacuum and limit it to 12".
 

KenH

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Here is my setup. I used a larger catch can from Summit Racing and put it where my windshield washer bottle was and routed the stock Y-plumbing from the two valve covers over to it. The benefit of putting the can on the drivers side is that there is less tendancy to pull in blowby gases through the cabin air intake if you vent the blowby into the engine compartment instead of routing back to the engine air intake.

Having said that, I would not recommend routing the output of the catch can back to the intake. The reason is that there will still be oil vapor passing though the catch can and that tends to lower the effective octane of your A/F mix and increases the air intake temperature and therefore increases the risk of detonation. Given your recent experience, I'd error on the safe side.

Car_Show.JPG


--- Ken
 

plumcrazy

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i totally agree with ken, putting those vapors BACK INTO the engine thru the intake is NOT good. its gonna LOWER your octane and INCREASE your likelihood of detonation.
 

KenH

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There you go again Ken, showing off that engine!!
I have to, I don't have all that exterior bling like you do.

Heck, I am thinking about just taking my hood off this year or cutting a hole in it and putting a big sheet of plexi in there like the ZR1.:D
 

FLX109

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I have to, I don't have all that exterior bling like you do.

Heck, I am thinking about just taking my hood off this year or cutting a hole in it and putting a big sheet of plexi in there like the ZR1.:D

Ken,
Your engine compartment does look sweet.


FLX109
 

KenH

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Actually Dave that was my plan all along. What better way to make your engine to pop than to photograph it in front of a very drab background that doesn't fight for attention with the foreground? :D
 

Cobraken

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I have to, I don't have all that exterior bling like you do.

Heck, I am thinking about just taking my hood off this year or cutting a hole in it and putting a big sheet of plexi in there like the ZR1.:D

Just call mine "Stickers". :D Too bad everyone can't see your engine when you're out and about!
 

davem

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I've spent a lot of time experimenting on both blower and turbo cars, and agree with Dan, these setups are the best as they do a great job of pulling the oil out of the air before they vent (they are full of screens and plastic mesh), and they drain the oil back into the crankcase. No emptying puke cans.....
My 2 bits..

-Dave.

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FLX109

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I've spent a lot of time experimenting on both blower and turbo cars, and agree with Dan, these setups are the best as they do a great job of pulling the oil out of the air before they vent (they are full of screens and plastic mesh), and they drain the oil back into the crankcase. No emptying puke cans.....
My 2 bits..

-Dave.

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Looking good Dave.


Bill
 

chimazo

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I've spent a lot of time experimenting on both blower and turbo cars, and agree with Dan, these setups are the best as they do a great job of pulling the oil out of the air before they vent (they are full of screens and plastic mesh), and they drain the oil back into the crankcase. No emptying puke cans.....
My 2 bits..

-Dave.

How do those mount, just go at the valve cover with a hole-saw?
Also, where did you get them?
Thanks!
 

treesnake

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I've spent a lot of time experimenting on both blower and turbo cars, and agree with Dan, these setups are the best as they do a great job of pulling the oil out of the air before they vent (they are full of screens and plastic mesh), and they drain the oil back into the crankcase. No emptying puke cans.....
My 2 bits..

-Dave.

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That looks like one BAD MO' FO'...
I almost wish I wouldn't have seen that.
 

RTTTTed

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That setup I shown is used on many mustang TT setups. I haven't heard of any issues of not passing emmissions. Then again with TT mustangs usually a little oil drop here and there is the least of their problems when it comes for inspection time. I know I personally have never seen any blue smoke come out of my tail pipes with this setup. So weather emmissions would be a problem:dunno:

Also, when I was doing a little part time out at the machine shop in my teenage years, when putting 10-12" of vacuum on some healthy v8 engines we noticed upwards of 15-25hp at the flywheel on the engine dyno. This was using a vacuum pump.

Using the method I had in the drawing on boosted mustangs Pushrod/mod motors both, I have seen 21". Which you need to put a valve in to "bleed" off the vacuum and limit it to 12".


The first emmissions issue is removing the Pollution Control Vavle, that's illegal and doesn't recycle the oil vapors back into the engine.

The second emmissions failure is that you're removing unburned oil fumes and molecules from the inside of the engine and depositing them into the thousands of degrees exhaust where it is burned, causing pollution and unburned hydrocarbons.

Chysler originally published this particular modification the old Hustle Stuff performance book back in '71 I think. It was also published in the Direct Connection books after that. Listed as a "race only" modifications for the reasons I listed above. Nearly all Race cars come with that modification. Not legal in any state, although it's also illegal for the crankcase to be open to the atmosphere. My car did burn blue often when I used that mod on my cars. It also sucked enough oil out of the engine that I had to add oil because of it. If there's no baffle plates under the valve cover opening the rocker arms will throw oil droplets right into the tube.

Also illegal, I have an electric vacuum pump to a catch can and I notice that I do use a little oil. Of course there's No emmissions testing way out in the bush here.

Ted
 
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