NEED ADVICE ON NEW SRT10 BREAK IN

[RonnieSRT10]

I my New 04 SRT10 is almost 4 days old, 200 miles, and my dealer said not to exceed 4000 RPM for the first 500 miles, and 5000 RPM for the second 500 miles, and then don't really slam it until I hit 1200 miles. I also have heard to change oil at 1000-1200 miles, which does not make sense with Mobil 1. OK all of you SRT10 and other Viper experts, what is the skinny on the best way to break it in and when should the first oil change come. Thanks os much.
P.S. I just love this car!

 

[fluffy]

I don't know about the rest, but your first oil change should come after about 100 miles or so. During new engine break in a large amount (well, relatively speaking) of metal will accumulate in the oil and these shavings need to be flushed. Changes at 500 and 1000 are recommended as well before you go to the normal schedule.

 

[FLOORIN04]

What the manual tells you and dealer is what i have done.Only thing else is not keeping rpms consistant.And do not alow car to idle for long period of times.This is what i have done.Also i have taken it over 5000rpms after 700 miles but have not stayed in the gas or thru alot of gears like that.Also check oil levels with every tank(may use oil)intill break in over.Congrats on a awesome car! Regardless what gen1@genII owners say. I also will change oil every 1000 miles.

 

[VIPER52USA]

Honestly, are the Gen I and Gen II people at war with you people?


Congrats on the car!
Where is your location by the way?

 

[Y2K5SRT]

I believe the manual now shows 500 miles for break-in and that is it. I had mine on the dyno at 548 miles. Break-in is fluctuating the RPM's and keeping them below 4000 for the first 500 miles if I remember correctly. I will check my old VIPER magazines, as Herb Helbig (SRT bigwig) addressed this question specifically for the SRT. As far as oil changes, I tend to do one at 200 miles on any new car to clean out any debris from those first few miles of breaking in a brand-new engine. After that I go to a regular schedule.

Here is one other tip: If you don't have a lift and want to save money on your oil changes, go to Walmart for the Mobil 1 ($19.98 for a 5-quart jug) and filter, then take it all to your local quick lube - or even your Dodge dealer if you wish. Most, if not all, will happily use your supplies and charge you next to nothing to change the oil. I have been using a local Valvoline shop for years and always get it done for free - they LOVE the Vipers! No, they don't touch anything else and yes, I tip them well...

 

[ROCKET62]

Interesting reading about a different view on engine break in:

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[fluffy]

Interesting reading about a different view on engine break in:

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

I've heard that from a number of people and it may well be true. But when I scroll to the bottom of his site and see his "secret" that smaller intake ports make more power... it makes me skeptical of anything he recommends, to say the least.

 

[Kelly06]

Had my viper at the dealer for something else (large dealer in San Jose with 4 viper techs) and asked two of the techs about first oil change. Was told they put in good factory oil and not to change until 3000mi unless I was doing extraordinary things with the car. I have heard this many times before

 

[Skip White]

I do believe in this aggresive breakin approach very much. Do you realize when racing engines are built, they use a dyno to break them in, and they do much what this guy is talking about, and yes the engines are set up just a bit looser, but this is to mainly to reduce drag. I spoke to a pro engine builder about this and the term he used is, "we need to get the rings seated quickly"

As for the small ports being a secret, it's not a secret, but what is ment by that, is you want the smallest port possible to give the best overall numbers, and maintain port velocity. The term small ports, can be misunderstood. Design has much to do with it.

What he said about synthetic oil is very true. Several years ago a customer at my uncles shop insisted on syn. oil being used from the moment the engine built. Well they could not get the rings to seat, as evidence of oil going past the rings, and low hp numbers on the dyno. Even draining the oil, still left enough in there to hinder the breaking proccess. They had to disassemble the engine and run it though the deep cleaning process.

I'm sure there's more to it, but we would do good to research the subject well.

Skip White

 

[Fred(DrivingSchool)Kinder]

I fell it is a mistake to compare a controlled(engine dyno) process vs a process of owner break-in that has huge varaition between drivers and ambient tempertures(cold start temps.). Engine Dyno(a quality engine builder) break in uses oil not synthetic oil.

Change the factory oil(Mobile 1) as soon as possible to remove metal particles. There is no down side unless you consider the cost of the change a neg.

Followed the factory manual with my 03 break-in and have no oil consumption problem.

 

[SylvanSRT]

After proper break in then, DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!