At Viper Days, they said something like 43% of Vipers are totlled within the first three months of ownership. There was a recent story of one guy, who bought a brand new one, headed for home, and totalled it, less than 200 feet from the dealer! Take your time! Go to Viper Days at least a couple of times, to get that Viper-specific instruction. Its not exactly the cheapest way to get seat time, but it is the best, 'specially for new guys.
Check your power steering cap often, if it gets loose, the p/s fluid will get on the exhaust manifold, and a Viper can be reduced to a big charred pile of plastic in a few minutes. Check it often. Also, the p/s cap vent is best routed downward, to a catch can, say, mounted on the aluminum cross member in front of the engine. This can is also uselful for receiving the valve cover vents, which now route into your airbox. Under heavy braking, oil can slosh into your intake, making big blue clouds of smoke, and even knocking. Change p/s fluid to Redline, which has a higher boiling point. Brake fluid should flush and replace with Dot4, like Motul 600. Don't move the front wheels left or right, with the hood cracked open, you can damage the hood. Only time to turn the wheel is with the hood all the way up, or all the way down. If you track it, you will want "trap doors" in your oil pan, modified windage tray, maybe an Accusump, so you don't **** air into the oil pump under heavy G-loads. All this stuff has instuctions and details, which will pop up with a search. This is just to get you started, give you an idea what to look for. There are many more ideas, but I'm not that sharp...
Have you installed
1. "smooth tubes" between the intake plenum, and the filter air box?
2. K+N filters?
3. Removed the water baffle in the air box? (good for .0005 Hp)
4. Headers are a good next step, then
5. Heads, cam, roller rockers,
6. High flow cats, (if you have to keep 'em)(But some people say the exhaust really stinks w/o them)
Some people go the forced route, like a Paxton, or Roe blower. Thats probably the best/most bang for the buck, but you gotta get it tuned just-so, add water/**** to control detonation, especially if you have cast pistons. More power means bigger brakes, better cooling, bigger half shafts, etc, etc. How much do you want to spend?
AgentF1, I'll try to get a pic up today, of the SSRs. I didn't want to show them yet, because the center caps are on backorder, probably on a slow boat from China. They removed 49 pounds of rotational inertia from the car, I know cuz I weighed the old rims and tires before, and after switching to SSRs, (same tires). Not only did I lose mass, but rotating mass at that, and also, unsprung weight. Made a bigger difference than I expected. Feels more like a cat now, light and sure-footed. The tripple-adjustable Penske shocks and Hypercoil springs may have helped this effect along, increasing the benefits of the lighter unsprung mass. IDK!