Northwind lowering shock cap installation

[Snakester]

I just bought these from the PartsRack to lower my Viper 5/8ths of an inch.

I'm going to have my friend/mechanic do the installation while he is installing my new EBC green/red brake pads next week, and then I'll have the car realigned.

But often I've seen that some VCA members have done a particularly common mod and then documented it online, and printing these out has been very helpful for me, especially for avoiding time consuming problems.

Has anyone else done the shock cap lowering mods?
It's supposed to be a straightforward install, not requiring a spring compressor.

-Dean.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

You will still need a spring compressor. Yes, it's very straightforward. One hint - a long pry bar to flex the suspension downwards to free up the shock bolts. The rubber bushings try to twist the suspension "up" while you want it to go "down".

You'll have to remove the front sway bar end link (on Gen 1, anyway) because it is in the way of removing the lower shock bolt.

You will have the opportunity to adjust the shock rebound stiffness. I have the fronts full stiff, the rears full soft for the street and AX (and occasional track) driving I do.

 

[Snakester]

Thanks for the info and tips Tom.

-Dean.

 

[GTS Dean]

While you have the springs off the stock shocks, it would be a great time to adjust the damping on them - as it can only be done with the springs off.

Use a small screwdriver and remove the bump rubber from the shock cap. Compress the shaft until it bottoms and then turn it until you feel it engage some slots. Turning the shaft CCW reduces damping, CW increases it. Stiffening the damping affects both bump and rebound equally. Stockers will probably be set around 1/2 turn from minimum. There are approximately 2 full turns from stop to stop, but I would recommend against more than 3/4 to 1 turn for a streetable car. If you go too far, it's a real pain to back off - because the shocks and springs need to come off again.

Replace the bump rubbers and reinstall the springs. Torque the shock bolts with weight on the suspension according to the Service Manual. If you're *very careful*, you can put jackstands under the wheel studs (nuts on) and be able to get to the bolts to torque them. It's a real pain with the tires on. Otherwise, use the skinny spare tire to give yourself room to work a wrench.

 

[Snakester]

Thanks for the info Dean. I'll print this out and show my mechanic. If the shock dampening is set at around 1/2 turn stock, and 3/4 to 1 full turn would be maximum, should I even mess with it at all? I'm probably not going to be tracking the car much at all, and I'm trying to set it up in a balanced way for the road.

That's why I'm only dropping it 5/8" instead of installing Eibachs. I'm trying to keep the car reasonably drivable for the street as it is my daily driver.

-Dean.

 

[Snakester]

Well everything is installed now.

The shocks and springs didn't have to come out after all.
He just put the car on jack stands, pulled the whell, and jacked up the suspension to compress the spring. Then he got a nylon ratchet strap, snugged it taut from the spring to the lower A-arm and released the jack. This pulled the shock down enough to pull the stock Koni caps out, and put the new shallow caps in.

Then he prepped the rotors and installed the new pads.

The ride feels a tiny bit more firm in turns, but not harsh, and the brakes feel good.

The car looks "right" now with even wheel spacing on the tops matching the side wheel-gap evenly.

I'll clean the wheels up tomorrow and see how the reduced dusting works, the brake squeal is gone now.

Thanks again for the tips/suggestions guys!

-Dean.