Road Race Setup

[TexasPettey]

I've got a Gen1 that I've started taking to the track to road race a couple of times per year. The typical event I run is ~20min on a 2-3 mile course. I usually get 3-4 runs a day for two days. Since this is becoming a serious habit, I'd like to ensure some of the longevity on the car. Couple of questions for those in the know.

1) Is an accusump worth it? I've heard that running 1quart over will pretty much take care of any dry out issues in the pan during cornering.

2) I'm going to start running race rubber. Any reccomendations? I'm somewhat price concious.

3) Once I switch over to race rubber, is a diff cooler needed?

4) I'm considering a cheap set of 17" OEM rims as race rims. Are there any heat or stress issues with running the OEM rims?

Thanks.

-Chris

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

1. I believe there is a pan upgrade that will suffice. ACR pan I think it is.
2. I love Hoosier slicks. Kumhos are very good as are Michelin Cups, and both are street legal.
3. GenI doesn't have exhaust pipes next to the diff so I wouldn't worry about heat. I don't have a diff cooler and I've been tracking my GTS for seven years.
4. GenI OEM make excellent track rims. Very durable, fairly affordable, lotsa tire choices.

Enjoy, welcome and keep us posted.

 

[97 Viper GTS]

I would highly recommend a dif cooler once you start running slicks. When my dif cooler pump failed, I blew my dif seals after 30 minutes of track time. I was running fast times on Goodyear eagle slicks at the time. Just my 2 cents...

If you want a VERY light, good set of 17" track rims- I have a set of CCWs I will sell you cheap. I raced them for 2 years, and they were great with Kumho V710s mounted. The V710s are street legal (although don't ever get caught in the rain with them), have excellent grip, and also have excellent longevity. Additionally, they are very economical. A great choice if you only track once or twice a month, IMHO.

 

[Gavin]

I've got a Gen1 that I've started taking to the track to road race a couple of times per year. The typical event I run is ~20min on a 2-3 mile course. I usually get 3-4 runs a day for two days. Since this is becoming a serious habit, I'd like to ensure some of the longevity on the car. Couple of questions for those in the know.

1) Is an accusump worth it? I've heard that running 1quart over will pretty much take care of any dry out issues in the pan during cornering. ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY IF YOU ARE RUNNING DOT SLICKS AND ANTICIPATE LONG SWEEPING TURNS - MANY A VIPER MOTOR HAS BLOWN UP AS RESULT OF RUNNING OUT OF OIL PRESSURE UNDER HIGH G SITUATIONS AT TRACKS - BUTTONWILLOW HERE IN CA IS A GOOD EXAMPLE

2) I'm going to start running race rubber. Any reccomendations? I'm somewhat price concious. KUMOS #1 TOYOS #2

3) Once I switch over to race rubber, is a diff cooler needed? THERE IS A REASON US RACER TYPES USE A DIFF COOLER - ITS CALLED LONGEVITY - YOUR DIFF WON'T LAST OTHERWISE - AND THERE IS ALWAYS THE PERSON THAT SMOKES AND LIVES TO BE 100

4) I'm considering a cheap set of 17" OEM rims as race rims. Are there any heat or stress issues with running the OEM rims? PURNERS ARE THE BEST WAY TO GO - YOU ARE GOING TO DENT A RIM SOONER OR LATER - PURNERS ARE NOT EXPENSIVE, ARE A THREE PART RIM, THEREFORE REPAIRABLE - GET THE BLACK CENTERS THEN THE 'KEEP THEM CLEAN AND SHINEY ISSUE' GOES AWAY

Thanks.

-Chris

 

[FrankBarba]

Texas Petty....Whats your Email. I will help you the Best that i can. I raced a Gen1. I was the best at it. I might have the answers that you are looking for.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Brakes. Not to be self serving, but you'll find you your deceleration is determined by what the front brakes can do and leaves a lot on the table. The fronts will overheat and you'll spend time and effort to figure out how to cool them, bleed them, different pads. There's a reason 40mm brakes are considered a safety item and no Matrix Points in Viper Days. If you're really going after it, Dave's Big Brake setup is a step up right away and lets you use larger pads in the rear.

The synthetic differential fluid and not being next to the exhaust should allow you to simply change the fluid on a regular basis and be fine. It's not supposed to be a fill-for-life system.

 

[Early93Viper]

1. From what I have heard (and what I have experienced(knock on wood)) GEN I's tend not to have oiling problems.

2. I run Kumho V700s not a straight slick but an R rated compound you can use on the street. Saves $$$

3. I did break a Diff at the track while running V700s but it did last over 10 track days and 35,000 miles. Used Diffs are pretty cheap ($600-$800 practically new) us GEN I guys can use GEN II diffs.

4. I have used OEMs and never had any trouble. (Knock on wood) Also I can't Imagine an aftermarket wheel being way lighter.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

AND THERE IS ALWAYS THE PERSON THAT SMOKES AND LIVES TO BE 100

LOL point taken.

For the record, I do change my fluids regularly.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

For the record, a 3 spoke rear wheel is 25 lbs. I think aftermarket is in the teens. I have use 3 spokes exclusively (rotating among three sets for street and track) and never had nor seen a problem.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Dunno what your budget is but Tom's rear brake upgrade is excellent and should be high on your priority.

 

[SoCal Rebell]

I've got a Gen1 that I've started taking to the track to road race a couple of times per year. The typical event I run is ~20min on a 2-3 mile course. I usually get 3-4 runs a day for two days. Since this is becoming a serious habit, I'd like to ensure some of the longevity on the car. Couple of questions for those in the know.

1) Is an accusump worth it? I've heard that running 1quart over will pretty much take care of any dry out issues in the pan during cornering.

2) I'm going to start running race rubber. Any reccomendations? I'm somewhat price concious.

3) Once I switch over to race rubber, is a diff cooler needed?

4) I'm considering a cheap set of 17" OEM rims as race rims. Are there any heat or stress issues with running the OEM rims?

Thanks.

-Chris

1) Upgrade to a '00 or later 10 quart pan and get the "trap door" windage tray upgrade.
2) Pilot Cup tires are good for a street/track tire. Hoosier R3S06s for dedicated track tires.
3) Diff cooler won't be needed.
4) Not really, if you run Hoosiers get a set of CCWs, inexpensive and light.

WARNING I've driven a few Gen 1's on the track and they are extremely "ass happy", Gen 2's have different componants and a little better geometry so watch it when you start to go fast

 

[TexasPettey]

Thanks for all the help, folks. It's nice to have a place to go for experience, instead of learning the hard way.

Looks like the jury is out on the diff cooler. I've been changing my diff & tranny fluid before each event. I'll probably keep my eyes open for one at a good price. Please let me know if you have suggestions on where to look.

I'll add the oil pan to my list. I'm a big fan of cheap insurance.

In addition to the above areas, I've got the following mods in the works:

1) Tom's rear brake upgrade
2) Brake duct cooling
3) Race pads
4) Radiator and Fan upgrade
5) Gen2 headers
6) Hi-Flow Cats & Cat-Back exhaust

I'll post before and after dyno runs with the exhaust, as I know it's always interesting to see results.

Thanks again.

-Chris

 

[Gavin]

If you are doing the radiator I suggest you look at one that included an oil cooler- keeping engine oil temps down helps everything - the big issue is getting enough air to the radiator and brake cooling ducts - remember the brake cooling ducts are taking air off the radiator. Roe Racing has a nose kit that pulls air from under the nose, a relatively high pressure area - engine cooling is helped big time with this change.

if you think you will ever put a front splitter and rear wing on the car - stay away from the Roe kit. When you are ready to do that I can show you the proper design to increase air to the radiator.

 

[Daniel Cragin/DC Performance Inc]

The Gen 1 cars do not suffer from the same oiling problems the Gen 2 did.
There are some basic track prep that will help. Safety first, brakes and alignment next. Call me and I can give you some advice.

Dan Cragin
DC Perormance Inc
310-841-6996

 

[Early93Viper]

The Gen 1 cars do not suffer from the same oiling problems the Gen 2 did.

This is what I was told as well. Why is that?