Roe S/C is In!!!

[JimT 99RT]

Cats are welded, S/C is in... Life is good. Pulls great after 2500rpm, power is smooth and the car runs great. Going up the on-ramp you hit 110mph before you even know it. Car sounds great. Nice package everything was labeled and laid out great. It was not exactly a two-day job for me, but then I have to jack with everything. The 999 recall makes getting to the crankshaft bolt quite a chore. I ordered the pinning kit but I didn't use it. It would have taken quite a bit to try and get a drill in there and it would have taken an impact wrench to get the bolt out, I managed to get a torque wrench on it and made sure it was at 250ft lbs of torque. To get the bolt out and drilled would have meant taking off a lot more parts than I wanted to mess with, and as tight as the bolt was I'm not to worried about it. I'll just make it a point to recheck it occasionally. The only trouble I had was disconnecting the damn fuel line. I ruined the fuel line getting the manifold connector off, I yanked a little to hard and kinked the hard line. For now I put in a steal braded fuel line and have a new one on order.

Thanks Sean one very satisfied customer!!!

... Hell if I can put the thing in anyone can.

Polished Roe S/C @ 7Psi
50lb injectors
70mm Throttle bodies
Roe modified air box
3" Smooth tubes
High Flow Cats

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

 

[BIGBADCJ]

all you gotta do is yank the air intake off, then 4 bolts on the crossmember, jack the car up in the middle, yank the cross member out and you got plenty of room to key your crank. id do it man, after a few 100 miles that thing will spin off. then you gotta find a tow. its really not that hard. id do it if i were you man. nothing like a piece of mind. just my 2 cents

 

[JimT 99RT]

BIGBADCJ,

I looked at removing the cross member but I was afraid of it taking a 16lb sledge to get it out and put it back in place. You mentioned to jack the car up, is that just to get under the car or does that somehow relieve pressure on the cross member. My car sits on a Kwik Lift so I can get under it easily. I tried loosening the bolt but I don't see it coming off without a impact wrench.

I would appreciate detailed instructions from someone who has keyed their crank.

Thanks

 

[BIGBADCJ]

yes jack the car up in the middle it causes the car to bow outward so you can move the crossmember around. id get both front tires off the ground makes it alot easier. you will have alot more room to work with.

 

[BIGBADCJ]

the nuts for the cross member are in the wheel well. the other 2 bolts just screw out.

 

[BIGBADCJ]

that front radatior hose may be in your way. id move it. its worth all this work

 

[Bob D]

Jim
You should at least use red locktite on your crank bolt. With the right extensions, you shouldn'thave to remove the crossmember. Mine was easy to remove, but it took everything I had to tighten. Put your tranny in 4th gear and parking brake on.

Bob David

 

[Shelby3]

I had a 8lb Roe system installed three weeks ago and the installer didn't key the crank. I decided to get Sean's hub tool and key it myself after driving the car a few days. When I went to loosen the hub bolt it came out with my fingers! I used a right angle drill extension and got the job done with just removing the air box. With your higher boost system, I would highly recommend you key the crank.

 

[1TONY1]

Do yourself a favor, go to Harbor Freight and buy this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2766
and this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=7535

Total $45.00 plus tax or shipping

 

[2MANYTOYS]

Pin the crank asap! Trust me it will fly off. Mine did, luckily my car was just sitting idling and not under boost. I would have hated to see the pulley or harmonic balancer flying around under my hood. Funny thing is that I had already ordered the pining tool and was waiting on it to arrive. Thought I would take the car out for a spin that's when it happened. I ended up having to replace the crank pulley, harmonic balancer, and the bolt and washer. You don't won't to go there.
Once you get it done go drive the hell out of it. They are a blast to drive with the new found power.

 

[2MANYTOYS]

Do yourself a favor, go to Harbor Freight and buy this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2766
and this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=7535

Total $45.00 plus tax or shipping

I second that. It is a [******] trying to drill it without the proper tool.

 

[MbnViper]

Congrats! key the crank man i will do this soon too, i used red locktite +250 ft/lbs.

PS. your S/C look deferent ? anyone saw that ? i mean in the back where the 2 intake tubes get together? new design?

 

[1TONY1]

Yes, the s/c's now have a different box on the back.

 

[2MANYTOYS]

Yes, the s/c's now have a different box on the back.

Why? Were their any performance differences?

 

[1TONY1]

It looks to me that the new style is easier to build. IMO it doesn't look as nice but it is hidden under the cowl cover so it doesn't really matter. I doubt there is any difference in performance.

 

[2MANYTOYS]

Thanks!

 

[BadVenm]

Jim,

you have a PM.

 

[Snake Eyes]

If you know a decent mechanic, see if he'll let you borrow his 90 degree drill for the crank, jack the front end up and do it from underneath. It will save alot of time. But, make sure you do it, I can speak from experience, regardless of how hard you torque or how much loctite you put on it will come off!

 

[BIGBADCJ]

i used solid keys and mine hasnt come off anymore, anyone welded the balencer on?