Side Sills Paint Bubbling

[dave6666]

yes, I have done this in the past, I have seen these bubble from corrision in places where there are no screws so I dont buy the gal reaction entirely. Everyone I have fixed I grind and tig weld the spots back up, then use epoxy primer inside and out and stainless screw fasteners. So far none have bubbled again.

Loose or porous or ??? paint with a chemical behind it could also initiate a corrosion. That list of chemicals could include:

-> Rainwater from the road surface

-> Car wash chemicals

-> General moisture not otherwise defined.

And for those of you wondering what car wash chemicals? Hows that work? Take some cheap car wash soap and a shiny piece of aluminum and boil that mixture in a *** for a year or two...

 

[Ron]

While I can't speak to GENI's, early GENII's had fiber backed insulation that was glued to the inner sill. This insulation absorbed water from rain, car washing, etc., then held it against the sill for days. Running the engine created a steam bath within the sill itself further accelerating the corrosion. Dodge after experiencing very expensive warrantee claims, redesigned the insulation to be fully metal encased making sure the fiber would no longer be exposed to moisture. No moisture, no corrosion.

Unfortunately you can not buy the insulation alone from Dodge. You have to buy the entire sill which obviously is cost prohibitive. There are aftermarket insulation alternatives but unfortunately they are almost as expensive and some not as effective as insulators. Perhaps a site sponsor could contact the OEM supplier of the updated insulation and make a group buy as all early designed insulation must be replaced to avoid this damaging corrosion. Add to that the inevitable burnout of stock cat'ed Vipers even with the new design insulation, it would seem like a great business opportunity.

What can you do if you have the early design in the meantime? Remove the sills, remove the insulation, repair and paint the inner sills, then wrap the bare side of the insulation with heavy duty aluminum foil. Fold the top over so any water entering via the top inside of the sill will run outside the foil rather than dampen the fiber. No need to re-glue, just wedge into position.

While reinstalling, do everything you can to gain an airspace around the cat to allow natural airflow. The sills have a large opening in front where the exhaust enters and a large in the rear where the exhaust exits. In my opinion, further venting is not needed nor helpful especially if you are trying to minimize corrosion opportunities. Get airspace around the cat and that alone will improve your heat problem.

How long will it last? Don't know but an annual checkup is certainly worth saving your sill from corrosion.

What won't work? Anything else. Without addressing the sponge sitting against the inner sill, you'll never truly solve the problem.

 

[viperB]

If anyone looking for a set of sills with no corrosion.You can pm me,thanks.

 

[AHudson777]

I had the heat issue, but not the paint bubbling. However, my sills at the point you mention got hot as fire. Pulled off the side sills, lots of sand and bits in there, a little corrosion around the screws.

I purchased stainless vents from West Marine, pointed them 'down' and installed at the front of my sills. (Had to trim slightly to 'fit' the look, and honestly they look fine.) I had also called Chuck Tator who encouraged the side sill insulation, which I purchased.

After getting all the stuff out, vents cut, and doing a 'dry fit' of the insulation, I decided against it. 'Twas tight as could be - too tight for my tastes - and after 'creating' air flow, could hardly justify stifling it. I abandoned the insulation, buttoned it back up. At the hottest point, the vents dropped about 20 degrees off the sills (crude measure) and can now actually put my hand on that area without losing my palm.

One day, the high flow cat might be in my future. For now, after about a year, no problems. Best wishes.

 

[eucharistos]

I purchased stainless vents from West Marine, pointed them 'down' and installed at the front of my sills. (Had to trim slightly to 'fit' the look, and honestly they look fine.)

possible to post a pic

 

[Ron]

Remember though that the tires are throwing water up so "up" or down it's still an entry point for corrision inducing moisture.

 

[95Viper]

I know what I am doing. 1) I am removing my sills every year to inspect everything inside and out. 2) I am replacing/removing the OEM cats which I already did 3) I am pulling the sills or doing something to dry the inside of the sill if I ever drive in the rain 4) I am doing what Tom said and putting something like heat tape or whatever between the car and the sill before reinstalling the screws to isolate aluminum from steel 5) I am replacing the screws everytime I reinstall them

 

[dave6666]

I know what I am doing. 1) I am removing my sills every year to inspect everything inside and out. 2) I am replacing/removing the OEM cats which I already did 3) I am pulling the sills or doing something to dry the inside of the sill if I ever drive in the rain 4) I am doing what Tom said and putting something like heat tape or whatever between the car and the sill before reinstalling the screws to isolate aluminum from steel 5) I am replacing the screws everytime I reinstall them

Damn boss... Hope you'll squeak some driving time in there too!

 

[Sparky3GTS]

Cats r not the answer. I have no cats and high flow borla exhaust with bigger pipe. Corrosion may be the ticket. Thanks for all the advice.

 

[95Viper]

Damn boss... Hope you'll squeak some driving time in there too!

I am moving from Michigan to Phoenix in a few months. I just picked up 8 months a year in driving.

 

[95Viper]

Sparky3GTS, Cats are the issue, one of the issues. It is a combination of moisture, corrosion, heat, rivits in some cases, etc. One or more end up causing the problem and almost everyone has a different combination.