starnge prob

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Did the dealers scan for any trouble codes? You can check for codes by cycling the ignition switch to on-off-on-off-on, then count the number of times the check engine flashes, noting the pauses in between the flashes. For example, 5 flashes-pause-5 flashes = code 55(this is the code for end of test). I, or someone here will look up the code(if any)for you.

This problem sounds like a defective crankshaft(or camshaft)sensor, or the wiring shorting out. Also, could be a bad connection at the wire bundle located at the right front of the engine. If engine does not start, try moving the wire bundle around. I had these exact problems on a brand new 1994. The computer needs signals from the crank and cam sensors for the engine to start, or run.

It is possible that you could have a weak fuel pump, but that usually will not cause the engine to die. Typically, it would only be hard to start. You can usually cycle the ignition on and off a few times to get it to start.

Good luck,
Chuck G.
 

99 R/T 10

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motordoc,
if you come up with any codes, I have a manual. I'll check it out for you, just post results. Also I believe that Albert Chlouber sell the clutch and presure plate for $270, but check with him to make sure, and stay with the stock clutch, supposed to be one of the better units out there. His number is 713-857-9998.

Mike
 

Jeff Torrey

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Call Chuck Tator/Tator Dodge in NY not far from RI. Great advice and service 914-763-9507. He is usually there past 6pm.
 

Tim

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I'm experiencing on my 94 RT10 the same 3500 rpm cut out and the occasional no start. Also seems to be very heat sensitive as the hotter the day gets, this gets worse.

My dealer after 2 days does not have an answer.

Can anyone help us out and tell us what has been found?

Thanks

Tim
 

HP

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A fault in the secondary ignition system can cause higher RPM power loss.
Check plugs/gap & plug wires, and coils.
 

Tim

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Fuel pressure is 50 psi when this happens, left the gauge taped to the windshield while driving.

Battery is new, lots of cranking power and engine speed.

The engine just dies completely. No gauges tach or speedo but will crank the motor over like there is no tomorrow.

We must turn the key off wait 30 sec to a minute then it will start. Once and a while it will take ½ hr before it will start but only when the car is warm.

Both their DRB’s will freeze up when this happens, other sensors such as the TPS and so on still show that they are working. Once the key is turned off and back on again his DRB comes back on line.

We have all pushed, pulled, tugged on wires, checked connections, contacts, grounds etc and still nothing.

Now the thought is that it may be the crank sensor. Does anyone know what the range is for resistance on that is?

The computer is another thought but that’s 10 days away and of course if that is not it the dealer does not want it sitting on their shelf. I’m trying to locate 94 RT10 in the area to try his. From what I have read, the computer has never been a problem but who knows I could have the 1st.

Frustrated Tim
 

Ulysses

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If the DRBs are freezing, you've lost connection to the computer.

The computer is losing power. There is another wire on the battery that powers the relays. Check to see if that is not corroded at the terminal connector.
 

Tim

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If the computer were losing power, would it not loose its memory? As it stands, it is retaining all of the key starts and what ever else it maintains in its memory.

Tim
 

Tim

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dead engine fixed, shorting 8 volt lead.

I’m up and running.

It was the 8-volt lead from the speed sensor that goes over the tranny. You have to pull the plates off the bottom of the car to get to it. One tiny hole the size of the tip of a pencil that had worn through the wire on the tranny.

It now runs like a top. Thanks for everyone’s help.

Tim
 

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