ZESTY
Enthusiast
I have always put plastic down on the floor when I put the car away for winter. I just built a new detached garage that is 15" above grade. Do we think I still need the plastic?
Storing the Viper for winter
- Thread starter ZESTY
- Start date
Steve 00RT/10
Enthusiast
I think it's still a good idea Jess.
Steve
Steve
Fast Too
Enthusiast
Im stupid, whats the plastic for?
AviP
Enthusiast
I think winterizing is overrated. While we feel pressured to do it, modern cars don't need it anymore. I wouldn't bother beyond filling the fuel tank (to prevent condensation) and adding Stabil (to keep the fuel good). Also, I used to move the car 6 inches forward/backward every 15 days or so to prevent flatspotting my new tires. Nowadays, I just drive it all winter unless there's snow on the ground.
Copernicus
Enthusiast
The theory behind lining a garage floor with plastic is to keep moisture from rising to the undercarriage of the vehicle. I have never seen any appreciable amounts of moisture on my garage floor so I don't use it.
ViperJay
Viper Owner
good question! this is my first winter. i was looking at the trickle chargers. fill the fuel tank? i was thinking in the other direction. it would be great to see a full list of things that should be done for winter storage.
xlrashn
Viper Owner
Jess and Viperjay,
The plastic on the floor is a good idea if your garage is unheated during the winter months. Especially the farther north you live. If you have a heated garage that STAYS heated all winter long , then it is not needed. Filling the gas tank full is still a good idea, yet if you don't, the gas tank will not rust inside because Viper tanks are plastic. The oil should be changed just prior to storage to remove acidic properties that are found in used oil. I would also encourage checking coolant protection as well if you have an unheated garage. There are several battery tender styl chargers on the market that you can use to make sure your battery stays charged and they are self-monitoring so you don't have to keep checking it. They are inexpensive as well. And finally I would put a good coat of wax on right before and cover with a quality car cover. Hope this helps. Jim
The plastic on the floor is a good idea if your garage is unheated during the winter months. Especially the farther north you live. If you have a heated garage that STAYS heated all winter long , then it is not needed. Filling the gas tank full is still a good idea, yet if you don't, the gas tank will not rust inside because Viper tanks are plastic. The oil should be changed just prior to storage to remove acidic properties that are found in used oil. I would also encourage checking coolant protection as well if you have an unheated garage. There are several battery tender styl chargers on the market that you can use to make sure your battery stays charged and they are self-monitoring so you don't have to keep checking it. They are inexpensive as well. And finally I would put a good coat of wax on right before and cover with a quality car cover. Hope this helps. Jim
V
Venomiss
Guest
pocketAA
Enthusiast
These are the steps that I took to winterize my car (99 RT/10) last winter, which was the first winter I had the car. I do not have a heated garage, so keep that in mind.
1. I went to home depot and got a large pastic tarp to put on the floor.
2. Bought a float mode battery charger that works great. Here is a link of the one I bought: http://store.schumachermart.com/sem-1562a.html Worked very well!
3. I would not alarm the car, because alarming the car seemed to drain my battery down very quickly and after coming out of storage last year I had to get a new battery. So my advice would be not to alarm it.
4. Before putting it away I got the oil changed and put a good coat of wax on it, when coming out of winter storage I did not change the oil again.
5. Covered the car with my dodge viper car cover (has the viper logo embroidered on the front...not sure if this is something you can buy or if it just came with the car).
6. Made sure the windows were cracked a bit.
7. Inflatted the tires close to max PSI to help prevent flat spotting.
8. Moved the car forward and back every few weeks to ensure no flat spotting occured on the rubber.
9. If mice might be an issue, put traps near the car. I have also heard putting dryer sheets in the engine bay helps deter the little rodents.
Here is a good site that provides some insights....it seems to be more geared to older style autos, but still a good reference.
http://www.dccarcare.com/tipowk/tipowk15.html
1. I went to home depot and got a large pastic tarp to put on the floor.
2. Bought a float mode battery charger that works great. Here is a link of the one I bought: http://store.schumachermart.com/sem-1562a.html Worked very well!
3. I would not alarm the car, because alarming the car seemed to drain my battery down very quickly and after coming out of storage last year I had to get a new battery. So my advice would be not to alarm it.
4. Before putting it away I got the oil changed and put a good coat of wax on it, when coming out of winter storage I did not change the oil again.
5. Covered the car with my dodge viper car cover (has the viper logo embroidered on the front...not sure if this is something you can buy or if it just came with the car).
6. Made sure the windows were cracked a bit.
7. Inflatted the tires close to max PSI to help prevent flat spotting.
8. Moved the car forward and back every few weeks to ensure no flat spotting occured on the rubber.
9. If mice might be an issue, put traps near the car. I have also heard putting dryer sheets in the engine bay helps deter the little rodents.
Here is a good site that provides some insights....it seems to be more geared to older style autos, but still a good reference.
http://www.dccarcare.com/tipowk/tipowk15.html
This is a Great thread to start for all us northeastern Viper owners (western NY here). I have read the list of things to do in the service manual. It seems to be pretty extensive and do not know how many of you seasoned Viper owners really do all of them or do things not listed that are important. I have a car capsule that’s all plastic and is like putting your car in a big balloon with a fan that circulates the air every 3-4 times an hour. I have never used it just bought the car this summer and my friend that I bought it from threw it in the deal. He says its great for no moisture or dust buildup on you car for the winter. This looks like a great way to store. Has Anybody used them here before?
ViperJay
Viper Owner
wow, thats a lot of differing opinions. im in rhode island, heated garage. some guys said to move it 8-10 feet every so often. does that mean move and then right back? my garage isnt that deep. here is what i have so far:
full tank with stable
over inflate tires
trickle charger
oil change
wax and cover
anything else?
full tank with stable
over inflate tires
trickle charger
oil change
wax and cover
anything else?
handyman_321
Viper Owner
AHHHHHHHHHHHH... I don't want to think about this for at least another month
It's too depressing...lol
I have a bubble that works great
It's too depressing...lol
I have a bubble that works great
klamathpro
Viper Owner
I never thought it was possible for mice to crawl up into your engine bay... until I found a dead mouse and lots of cotton under my intake manifold when I did my head gaskets. Had been there since before I owned it.
mjorgensen Woodhouse
Enthusiast
My thoughts are that if the tank is full of good fuel then there is not really a need for the stabil since it does not sit for a really long time. I like to put the car on stands each winter and plastic on the floor (not heated) but do work on it over the winter with heat. As far as the wax and cover yes I do this but I also uncover often and do additional paint (wax) work over the winter so the car is really fresh in the spring (ie. anal).
The Viper has a aluminum oil pan that tends to attract moisture over time so we always recommend changing the oil in the spring before driving to ensure there is not water in the oil, may not be any real accumulation but any is too much to me. I always have pretty fresh oil in my car though having changed it 41 times in 37,000 miles (ie. anal).
The other reason I like the stands is I have a chance to detail the underside over the winter (ie...) and check for problems and suspension items along with knowlege about the cars. It also make for no flat spots but I remove and bag the wheels and tires anyway after cleaning front and back and waxing (ie....). It furthermore gives me the oppurtunity to "drive" the car over the winter and lubricate seals and such in place.
AND I also remove the interior and freshen the carpets with a good cleaning and detail the dash etc.. for a great spring experiance. But maybe I just have too much time on my hands in the winter
The Viper has a aluminum oil pan that tends to attract moisture over time so we always recommend changing the oil in the spring before driving to ensure there is not water in the oil, may not be any real accumulation but any is too much to me. I always have pretty fresh oil in my car though having changed it 41 times in 37,000 miles (ie. anal).
The other reason I like the stands is I have a chance to detail the underside over the winter (ie...) and check for problems and suspension items along with knowlege about the cars. It also make for no flat spots but I remove and bag the wheels and tires anyway after cleaning front and back and waxing (ie....). It furthermore gives me the oppurtunity to "drive" the car over the winter and lubricate seals and such in place.
AND I also remove the interior and freshen the carpets with a good cleaning and detail the dash etc.. for a great spring experiance. But maybe I just have too much time on my hands in the winter
Ulysses
Enthusiast
Winter? What's that?
Steve 00RT/10
Enthusiast
IMO--storing a car for 5 or 6 months does not require Stabil. I've been storing multiple vehicles / machinery for over 20 years and have never had a fuel or varnish problem. I believe fuel today has additives in it which are plenty good for 5-6 months. Fill the tank pretty much to the top, leaving a little room for expansion
A trickle charger is not the same as a battery tender. You want a battery tender / maintainer. They work like a water level. ....Shutting off when they reach a set battery charge (voltage) and coming back on when that set point hits a lower level. A trickle charger never shuts off -- not good for long term storage (unless you lock the car and thus provide a 'load'). I have 3 Black and Decker tenders. They ran about $14 each. The technology of these things is not rocket science. It's pretty basic. There is absolutely no reason to spend $50 bucks for the 'brand name.'
I also don't think it necessary to move the car back and forth when it's only stored for 5-6 months. Tire compounds today will not get flatspots over that time frame.....nor will the rear differential rust from not turning the gears. Blow the tires up to around 5 pounds under max.
Get the car good and hot and shut it off....till spring. Unless you can get out and give it a good run over the winter, idling every couple weeks in the garage just doesn't cut it for getting out all the water and impurities in the oil... created from combustion.
I leave the top unlatched on the RT. Windows cracked, Bounce sheets in some strategic places, tail pipes covered as well to keep the critters out. Lube up all hinges and such.
Steve
V
Venomiss
Guest
I found three more pages:
http://forums.viperclub.org/showthread.php?t=595307&highlight=Winter+Storage
People have all kinds of advice.
http://forums.viperclub.org/showthread.php?t=595307&highlight=Winter+Storage
People have all kinds of advice.
Madduc
Enthusiast
Forgot about the tailpipes! Had a friend last spring that went to start his car after winter. Something was amiss. After some more fiddling and engine damage they tore into it. A mouse had made a nest in the exhaust port, which hung a valve open which bent when it was intimate with the piston.
