The motor is being pulled and sent to the machine shop . . .

[HLN A55]

. . . after a spirited drive, all accesories stopped working. Turns out that the pulley decided to somewhat seperate form the crank and tear the end of the crankshaft up

So, since the block is going to the machine shop, what do I do to upgrade? I am not looking to spend much more than $7-8k above the cost of the crankshaft repair, and do not want to supercharge. With that said, what do y'all recommend I do? I was thinking of doing at least a new clutch, replace the radiator, go to forged pistons . . . I am pretty much open for all ideas.

 

[Jim Wilson]

I'd do stroker and heads.

Edit....and pin the crank.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

Go with the SRT-10 Crank.

Man what bad luck. It just broke?

 

[HLN A55]

Go with the SRT-10 Crank.

Man what bad luck. It just broke?

Yup, everything was fine and then bam, belt squeal and no accesories. The pulley was hanging on by a thread.

This is the first that I have heard about the SRT crank-what is the benefit to doing that?

 

[Disturbed]

Pick up a SRT Crank and have it off set ground 522CID. Then have Greg Good do the head work. Easy 500rwhp.

 

[plumcrazy]

DONT pin the crank.....KEY it

 

[grcforce327]

The pulley is bolted to the harmonic balancer.Are you refering to the balancer as a pulley???

 

[Purdue_Boiler_Viper]

The pulley is bolted to the harmonic balancer.Are you refering to the balancer as a pulley???

You are correct. The crank pulley is bolted to the balancer. The problem is the balancer is bolted to the crank with one big bolt, and is not keyed / pinned, etc. And the rotation of the crank will try to loosen the bolt. If that bolt does loosen, bad things can happen.

Roe sells a pinning kit that a lot of us have done. It pins the balancer to the crankshaft with two pins.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

. . . after a spirited drive, all accesories stopped working. Turns out that the pulley decided to somewhat seperate form the crank and tear the end of the crankshaft up

So, since the block is going to the machine shop, what do I do to upgrade? I am not looking to spend much more than $7-8k above the cost of the crankshaft repair, and do not want to supercharge. With that said, what do y'all recommend I do? I was thinking of doing at least a new clutch, replace the radiator, go to forged pistons . . . I am pretty much open for all ideas.

Did you have any engine mods to begin with? I thought this was "mainly" a problem for SC cars.

 

[HLN A55]

Did you have any engine mods to begin with? I thought this was "mainly" a problem for SC cars.

Not much, just headers and the like.

Yes, I was refering to the pulley and the balancer as just the pulley.

I will look into Roe's kit-sounds like something I will want to have for the future.

 

[MAVPR]

Is there any way to check and make sure that this bolt has not loosened off? This has made me a bit nervous.............

 

[got one]

came off on my car...but it came clear off and the pulley came off before it could do any damage...phew...

Also, if you have never torqued down a bolt to 250ft/pounds and you have the hood on...have a friend come over and help before you break something.

Grayson, ***** about your car. Heads and cam maybe? Upgraded intake maybe?
Light weight flywheel? new Pulley set? Vec 3 upgraded from a Vec 2? three peice hard top?

 

[Viper Wizard]

Before you pull your motor, make sure of what your looking at! The balancer is softer then the crank!! When they get loose they will spin on the crank and leave the some steel from the balancer on the snout of the crank. It may look like the crank is all chewed up but in reality it's just the steel from the balancer built up on the crank!! The snout should be 1.372" ALL 92-06. I have had 20 or so balncers that came off come through my shop and not one of them needed to have the motor pulled! I not saying that they are all that way BUT I'd do a little measuring before you pull the motor! If that's the case, you can clean it up with some emery cloth [100g]. New crank seal #5245135 MSRP $10.75, new balancer #5037551AB MSRP $162.00, new bolt #6036207AA MSRP $6.35 [less 20% VCA discount ], Roe Racing's pinning kit and some RED loc-tite. Maybe about an hours worth work and back on the road.

Just check it first!!

"last weak i cudt sperl mercanik, now i r 1"

 

[kcobean]

Before you pull your motor, make sure of what your looking at! The balancer is softer then the crank!! When they get loose they will spin on the crank and leave the some steel from the balancer on the snout of the crank. It may look like the crank is all chewed up but in reality it's just the steel from the balancer built up on the crank!! The snout should be 1.372" ALL 92-06. I have had 20 or so balncers that came off come through my shop and not one of them needed to have the motor pulled! I not saying that they are all that way BUT I'd do a little measuring before you pull the motor! If that's the case, you can clean it up with some emery cloth [100g]. New crank seal #5245135 MSRP $10.75, new balancer #5037551AB MSRP $162.00, new bolt #6036207AA MSRP $6.35 [less 20% VCA discount ], Roe Racing's pinning kit and some RED loc-tite. Maybe about an hours worth work and back on the road.

Just check it first!!

"last weak i cudt sperl mercanik, now i r 1"

Chuck speaks the truth! I lost the balancer on my car TWICE before I got smart and pinned it. Both times it fell completely off the shaft and was resting on the power steering rack. I should have REPLACED *and* pinned it after the first time it came off (instead of just stickin' it back on and torquing the bolt down), since the balancer is made of a very soft metal that 'fuses' to the crankshaft. This 'fusing' gets ruined in a spin-off. The second time it spun off, the mounting surface of the damper was so enlarged that I could literally wiggle it side to side on the crankshaft, whereas the new one had to be torqued on with the bolt to get it to seat all the way down. I had to take a considerable amount of old damper material off the snout of the crank to make it smooth/small enough to get the new damper on.

Oh, and when you order the damper from Chuck, have your VIN number handy, it's a controlled distro part, so he'll need your VIN.

 

[kcobean]

Is there any way to check and make sure that this bolt has not loosened off? This has made me a bit nervous.............

stick a big ol' torque wrench on it and PUSH!!!!!

 

[TexasPettey]

. . . after a spirited drive, all accesories stopped working. Turns out that the pulley decided to somewhat seperate form the crank and tear the end of the crankshaft up

So, since the block is going to the machine shop, what do I do to upgrade? I am not looking to spend much more than $7-8k above the cost of the crankshaft repair, and do not want to supercharge. With that said, what do y'all recommend I do? I was thinking of doing at least a new clutch, replace the radiator, go to forged pistons . . . I am pretty much open for all ideas.

Wow. That's bad luck. Are you certain that the crank needs to be replaced?

If you've got the motor out, there's an interesting list of mods that are possible. It all depends on what you want to do. If you want more HP, I'd suggest Heads/CAM/tune. You should decide if you want to go SC in the future. If you are going to SC, you will want less compression. If you are not going to SC, you will want more compression. So, pistion choices & head milling will be a function of your future plans. With the motor out, and the heads off, I'd suggest staying NA. You should be able to get close to 600RWHP with a NA setup on heads, cam, increased compress, & tune. You could also have the intake ported while it's off. I would guess that you could have all that done for $6K or less, while the engine is out of the car.

Stock clutch should be OK for this HP, unless it's worn. I think that a lightweight flywheel is only interesting if you're going to road race.

Are you planning on tracking the car more? If so, there are some other mods that are a good idea. Oil pan baffles are one.

Ryan, sounds like we need to schedule a club event at a local ******* to discuss this topic in its proper forum.

 

[got one]

Are you planning on tracking the car more? If so, there are some other mods that are a good idea. Oil pan baffles are one.

Ryan, sounds like we need to schedule a club event at a local ******* to discuss this topic in its proper forum.

This Saturday...the Detail session...would be a great day and a great spot. I know, no ******* girls, but still...

 

[TexasPettey]

This Saturday...the Detail session...would be a great day and a great spot. I know, no ******* girls, but still...

No can do for me. I'll be returning from CA that day. I may be able to stop by the car show afterwards. You'll have to give me some of those detailing secrets. My car is in need of a cleaning overhaul after these last track events.

 

[The Great One]

. . . after a spirited drive, all accesories stopped working. Turns out that the pulley decided to somewhat seperate form the crank and tear the end of the crankshaft up

So, since the block is going to the machine shop, what do I do to upgrade? I am not looking to spend much more than $7-8k above the cost of the crankshaft repair, and do not want to supercharge. With that said, what do y'all recommend I do? I was thinking of doing at least a new clutch, replace the radiator, go to forged pistons . . . I am pretty much open for all ideas.

What year is your car and how many miles are on it? Sounds like a freak-accident.

 

[Blade Runner]

I have a crankshaft grinder for sale cheap if anyone is interested, made in 1971.

 

[Ron]

Perhaps a silly question, but what does "it's a controlled distro part" mean?