Wax Wars Cont - Power vs. Hand

Gerald Levin

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Anyone here exclusively wax and buff their cars by hand? Any good photos? And assuming the paint/finish is in good condition to start, doesn't Sal recommend against using power buffers/waxers?
Thanks
 

Snake Bitten

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Anyone here exclusively wax and buff their cars by hand?

I work smart, not hard...Buffer to apply all polish/glaze/wax...everything is removed with Microfibers...


Sal has a great product, but like everyone else, has his own "opinion" on technique...I would say you should not use a buffer without tons of practice on something other than your viper...practice on the wifey's car...
 

slaughterj

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Anyone here exclusively wax and buff their cars by hand?

I work smart, not hard...Buffer to apply all polish/glaze/wax...everything is removed with Microfibers...


Sal has a great product, but like everyone else, has his own "opinion" on technique...I would say you should not use a buffer without tons of practice on something other than your viper...practice on the wifey's car...

Since you are such the MASTER, why don't you tell us how to best "wax off" ;)
 

Y2K5SRT

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I hand wax/polish only because I have never tried a machine. That said, I am getting pretty tired of it. Tempted to try a buffer, especially as I have swirl marks in the paint (factory) and a couple hairline scratches tht appear to be in the clearcoat only. Fun!

Chris
 

genXgts

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I owned a detail shop in my high school days and kept it going for 3 or 4 years while in college and would pump out dealer cars with a buffer no problem, variable speed black and decker I recall.

I feel power is overkill unless the clearcoat needs some work. If your paint is in good shape, nothing beats steady even pressure in linear lines that follow the car from front to back, in application and removal. Bottom line you are getting into the clear somewhat to scuff it up or not much is happening, any product sitting on top of clear imperfections will not produce stellar results.

These faint scratches from waxing are in line front to back with the cars lines and reflect the sun in the same manner, eliminating the concentric circle in the sun/florescent lighting situations. Incandescent and just about anything looks good.......

That's my take on things, if I had a problem area with my car I would go in with power, albeit very carefully. Curves and corner paint thickness is a fraction of a flat panel and burn thru happens in a matter of seconds. Learned the hard way on that (with customers cars to boot!).
 

Viperbass

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Gerald,

Come to one of the Indy meetings. I will be glad to describe my techniques. I have long been ribbed by fellow Indiana/Kentucky members about how much time I spend on my finish, but believe me it will pay off. There are several tricks to be learned both with a buffer and without. :rolleyes:
 
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