When changing clutch should flywheel be machined.

[ACELLR8]

Changing the clutch and sending some other things to the machine shop. Just wondering if I should get the flywheel machined?

I remember putting a clutch in one of my older cars an RX7 and did not do this and the car would buck in first gear / reverse and this never went away.

Thanks,
Ed

 

[slaughterj]

Give Sean Roe a call about this - while of course he sells both (and I bought both at the same time, while the tranny was out), he recommended that both be changed - conceivably machined could be done as well?

 

[dansauto]

why not just buy a new aluminum one, bastage...

 

[ACELLR8]

why not just buy a new aluminum one, bastage...

Do you have a broken one I could have for free?

Why don't you just worry about your fuel upgrade while you are at it?

 

[ACELLR8]

Give Sean Roe a call about this - while of course he sells both (and I bought both at the same time, while the tranny was out), he recommended that both be changed - conceivably machined could be done as well?

Thanks for the info, did not really want to buy a new one as I am already over budget on my engine rebuild and heads, cam set up. Was hoping to keep stock flywheel. Not convinced I like the aluminum flywheel either. Had one in other cars and noticed no significant differance.

Ed

 

[slaughterj]

I've noticed no significant different with the aluminum flywheel either, but IIRC, Sean explained the clutch & flywheel to be like brake pads and rotors, respectively, thus something should be done equivalently to the flywheel when the clutch is changed, like how rotors can be scuffed, replaced, etc., when the pads are changed.

 

[LETHAL GTS]

you should reface the flywheel. Unless it looks like new.

 

[Ron]

Dodge states that the flywheel can not be resurfaced / cut. They only recommend confirming it's flat (unwarped) and without heat damage, then scuffing with 600 paper as I remember. I too would stick with OEM.

 

[Rich Carlson]

Do not resurface a stock flywheel.

 

[Vipermed 97.01]

What Ron and Rich said is correct

 

[ACELLR8]

Thanks gentlemen, that's what I needed to know.

Ed

 

[wcollera]

The guy who taeks care of my viper told me that I can not machine the flywheel because of the stack height. He suggested for the type of driving that I do I should just go get the kevlar cluth with the aluminum fly wheel. Was a big difference in the old viper.

 

[genXgts]

Just tossed a new tranny in my car, left in the OEM flywheel with no scuffing.

All gears are fine, little stiff with everything new (fluids as well), but hopefully will work in!

 

[dansauto]

why not just buy a new aluminum one, bastage...

Do you have a broken one I could have for free?

Why don't you just worry about your fuel upgrade while you are at it?


I have a nonbroken OE flywheel you can have, did you break that too!?

No worrys on the fuel upgrade, gots it all figured out! I'll probably have to do something with yours too so you can spray a 300 shot just to keep up with me...

 

[Larry Macedo]

Don't forget to replace the (8) flywheel bolts!

 

[Ron]

Good point Larry. Not only because of potential bolt stretch causing a wobbly wheel, but the crank holes are exposed to the crankcase, so you need sealer on the flywheel thread bolts to prevent leakage. New OEM bolt already have the sealer applied.