Where can you buy wheel straps?

Kens66

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I have a trailer with tie-down points that are pretty far forward of the nose of my GTS. I believe wheel straps are the best way to tie the car down. If you have used wheel straps to secure your Viper (and liked them), where did you buy them?

Thanks...
 

JonB

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I have a trailer with tie-down points that are pretty far forward of the nose of my GTS. I believe wheel straps are the best way to tie the car down. If you have used wheel straps to secure your Viper (and liked them), where did you buy them? Thanks...


Ken, I DON'T agree.....especially because you live in mountainous country, with lots of winding roads.....Wheel straps allow the body and suspension to continue to work, USUALLY opposite and out-of-synch with the trailer suspension. If you get 'in trouble' on winding mountain roads, you can SAVE the trailer if the car is not fighting-undulating in disharmonic weight changes. Scary.

Because you had an Email in your profile, I sent you some info and a source. Call me for more...
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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JonB makes a good point. I loop the straps through the spokes but here in FL we only have one mountain and it's only about 3ft above sea level.
 

Jay Herbert

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I have a trailer with tie-down points that are pretty far forward of the nose of my GTS. I believe wheel straps are the best way to tie the car down. If you have used wheel straps to secure your Viper (and liked them), where did you buy them?

Thanks...

Best option is to move or add proper strap points for your Viper.

A second option is to mount "strap rings" in the right spot and run the straps from the Viper frame, through the rings and to the tie-down points. Many set up their trailers this way as it pull more "down" on the frame rather than forward, thus making it easier to pull the car toward the trailer deck, and it also helps with low clearance/modified cars as the straps do not pull "up" against the underside of the fascia.

Jon B. can help you out whichever way you go....
 
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Kens66

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OK, you guys convinced me, but it requires modifying the trailer a little bit. Right now the tie-down points are so far forward that anything attached to the frame would pull up (too) hard against the front fascia when tightened.

Just to get the car home from the body shop I'll probably loop through the wheels, which is what I did last time.
 
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Kens66

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Maybe I'm not visualizing it properly, but I'm pretty sure that no matter where I tie to on the car, the bottom of the front air dam is so low that it will be in heavy contact with a strap going to the D-ring. On my trailer the D-rings are maybe 4-5 feet in front of the car. Does that make sense?
 
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Look for the front frame slot, just forward of the front wheel. The front D-Rings are about 4-5 feet from the frame slots on my trailer.

Also in my post above I reversed the strap configuration. The front straps are straight from the frame to D-Ring and the rear Straps are crossed.

My car(99ACR) has been lowered slightly and the straps do not hit the air dam.
 
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Found a picture on the Viper Days website of an open trailer with the strap attached to the D-Ring and the T-hook on the end of the tie down strap. The T-hook fits into the frame slot.

http://www.theperformancedrivingschool.com/photos.html

If this link does not work copy it to your browser. The T-Hook is in the fourth(2006) Button Willow photo.

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Jay Herbert

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I think what the original poster was having trouble with is that his D-rings are to far forward on his trailer (relative to the car when loaded in the correct position). When he loads his Viper and puts one end of the strap in his frame slot and the other end in the D-ring, it pulls up against the lower edge of his front fascia when tightened. The front fascia is so low and long on our Vipers, that it is tough to miss.

Really three options:

1) The wheel straps which he asked about. Many good resons have been posted for not using these.

2) Putting in D-rings in the correct location for the Viper. This might still result in hitting the underside of the fascia with the strap, at least it does on my trailer which does have the D-rings mounted specifically for hauling Vipers.

3) Put another D-ring in a so that he can run the strap through the additional D-ring and then up to the frame slot, while connecting the other end of the strap to the original D-ring.
 
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Kens66

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ViperJay, thanks, that makes the choices pretty clear and (3) seems like the most elegant solution. Do you know of any supplier that sells the D-rings separately?

My trailer is a Featherlite that is similar to one in Fred's picture. It's possible that mine is longer, but one definite difference is that the D-rings on my trailer are further forward, pretty much under the trailer's air dam.
 
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Hi Ken,

Number three sounds like a possible solution. Consider that the, D-ring http://www.etrailer.com/z-RR06.aspx , used to deflect the strap will likely cut the tie down strap or weaken the strap.

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My trailer is presently in storage but I would be happy to get measurements for the D-Rings and trailer specs. If you look closely at the picture the D-rings are under the trailing edge of the air dam on my trailer. I do load my car forward to keep good weight on the hitch.
 

Jay Herbert

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Fred has a good point on potential damage to the strap by running it through the loop. Some straps have a "safety sheeth" which is designed to be slid to a postion on the strap that may rub against something, thus preventing damage.
 
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