If you don't want to handle it all yourself you could also use an agent such as
http://www.e-motorclassics.com/docs/?section=home_page. I sold my '69 Charger R/T SE with them - they handle all the dealing with the buyer, run the listing and host all the photos. The fee was low as well. Worth a look if you don't want to worry about getting hosed by a scammer.
Interesting! A few of our local guys have asked me to list their Vipers (and other cars like a Bentley GT) on eBay and it has been pretty successful. A few things I would suggest:
1. LOTS of quality pictures, including any/all defects. People spend more with honest sellers.
2. Same thing with the description. The more information about that car the better. Some clutter it up with the history of the model itself, which I think doesn't apply as much. Most people looking at that model already know enough about it or they wouldn't be looking.
3. Copyright your photos (i.e., ©2005 O2BFUNNY). While it doesn't stop it, it will slow down scam artists from using your photos to sell a car they don't own.
4. Make the auction "private", in that your bidders are only known to you. Again, this prevents scammers from abusing your bidders, as they don't know who they are. I have had these same weasels write to my bidders (before I started making them private) and offer to sell them the car - often pretending they were me! Imagine getting a "Second Chance Offer" on a car that sold for $70K for your last bid price of $28K. Say goodbye to $28,000 if you fall for this. Or just mark the auction "private" and those worries go away.
5. Specify a deposit of something like 10% of the purchase price to be received within 72 hours of auction end. This separates the men from the boys.
6. NEVER accept a personal check or International payment (other than an international wire transfer). Ask for a certified bank check and also stipulate that the funds must clear your bank before you release the vehicle or the title.
7. Set up a separate bank account for your eBay transactions. The problem is that when doing a wire transfer, you may end up giving them enough bank information to actually pull money from your account. While there is plenty in place to generally prevent this, I don't like the idea of providing my main checking account information to a person I never met. Instead, I give them all the information they need - on an account that generally has less than $10 in it.
8. Make it clear that the buyer is responsible for all shipping costs and arrangements. This releases you from liability in the event there are problems with the same. I usually provide my buyers with a contact name or two of preferred carriers (Gary Almond, Gene Bond, etc.) and then let them go from there. No problems to date (knock on wood).
9. Point out if there is a factory warranty and if not, whether you plan to warranty it or not. Otherwise make sure you sell the vehicle "as is, where is" and that there is no warranty expressed or implied. The last thing you want is some yahoo blowing up a $10,000 Viper motor and wanting a refund or reimbursement for the engine that was running fine when you owned it.
Whew! Those are just a few things I could think of off hand. Be prepared to get trade offers and/or not have your vehicle sell the first time around. Just because you are selling it doesn't mean that every potential buyer is seeing it during those 5, 7, or 10 days you listed it. I have had a few vehicles sell the second time around that barely moved the first time, including the Bentley GT.
Here is one of my prior auctions, just in case you were interested in one approach:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4542081515
Good luck with your sale!