Those strakes are really going to improve your spoiler efficiency. You might think about an assortment of varying height Gurney strips after you get some shakedown runs on it.
I just put mine on a 2 Amp trickle charger for 10-24 hours about every 6-8 weeks. Hook up to the positive stud on the PDC, then ground to the stud on the rocker panel ahead of the hood guide. Seems to work fine for me.
I think you're going to generate some drag-inducing vortices from the spoiler corners and might want to think about turndowns/fences. You should to look at Pro Stock spoilers as a guide. The folks at ART were heavily into big speed with the G3-4/CC platform. Todd may be willing to share some...
Those SVSi headers are NOTORIOUS for burning, melting and boiling everything near them. You absolutely MUST use heat shielding (not just header wrap) and heat socks on the plug wires for track duty! If Dan did the build, then most likely it is taken care of. However, lots of people would rather...
I bought a track car early this year with a big Aeromotive A1000 pump mounted to the frame down low and a gutted OE bucket and top hat. It had AN10 out and AN8 return bulkhead elbows and the suction hose just stuck through the bottom of the bucket to just above the tank bottom. Hoses were super...
I vented mine back in about '01. Brake cooling improved tremendously. About 4 years ago, I found the side flap seal to finish out the holes. I figured I wanted to give both the wheel wells and the engine bay some room to bleed excess pressure. The split is about 50/50.
I strongly believe in stainless lines, the Gen2 rear brakes with 40mm piston upgrade, along with pulling the spring out of the proportioning valve for more line pressure. You still won't lock them.
The 3/3000 adage is from the "Mr. Dirt" commercials. I think that ad campaign was from the late '70s/early '80s. To a large degree, it is completely absurd with today's highly refined engine oils and additive packages - particularly with respect to full synthetics.
For a historical perspective...
If you are measuring outside the lip flanges, then you will show an extra 1/2" per half. The correct measurement is to the vertical faces of the tire bead area. What tire sizes are mounted?
You need to pay attention to the short side radius area of the mid-bank cylinders for clearance and wrench access. You may need something a little different.
Short trips and heavy loads when not fully warmed up are what's worst for engine oil. If the engine doesn't get the fan cycling regularly with water temps above 212F, your water condensate will acidify and sludge deposits begin to form. If you run too cool a t-stat, you may not get the crankcase...
The amount of them damaged by loose damper bolts is staggering. Followed by banging the Rev limiter in High-G corners on the track and starving the #3 rod jounal.
Sean,
I've rarely had trouble with the clutch in almost 30 years of track driving. I've run the same Luk pressure plate and disk at modest power levels for 15 years! I suggest a thorough clutch bleed with vacuum assist. I don't use any sort of hi-temp fluid for that. Keep those exhaust heat...
The projection is also called a centering register, or pilot. It's purpose is to keep the pulley true with the crank axis. The bolts resist the loading caused by the accessories being driven off the crank. The aluminum IPSCO mounting surface is noticeably thicker than the OE steel piece, but...
Dilusi Motorsports used to sell a bracket set along with the L/R 911 deflectors. This is what they look like installed. FYI - they can be installed below, or above the wishbone. And you can flip the deflectors L/R. I currently run mine on top the wishbones with the long flat facing forward and...
When you're ready to install the ARP crank bolt, I would suggest only coat the underside of the bolt head with their lube and not put lube on the damper side of the washer. You want the washer to stay put and reduce the friction under the bolt head. Then put blue loctite 242/3 on the threads and...
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