That's not dirty. This was mine after about 8-10 years of road and track use. I held the radiator flat about 1-2" off the floor and just dropped it repeatedly about 20 times to jar the sand, rubber and bug carcasses loose. Afterward, I used compressed air, then medium intensity water spray. The...
Squeeze hard o n the upper radiator hose with a glove or shop rag for insulation. That's some NASTY looking whatever in your system.
edit: and that brake fluid! God man, flush that garbage out too - TWICE!
I put a new NAPA t-stat in my car a few years ago and it had a bleed orifice already installed. It allows for efficient cold fill burping.
I owned and maintained my Viper for 27 years before I bought this setup for purging air pockets. Works like a champ for around $25! Fill the system and fill...
Both circuits get full pressure for the initial application. Above a certain relief pressure, the rears build proportionately less than fronts. If one adds an adjustable valve, then the rear working portion of the OE combination valve needs to be disabled so the new one works over its full range.
It happens to be the Right and Only way to plumb the adjustable valve in. You MUST disable the OE proportioning section. Or, put a new safety switch block in without the proportioning valve section.
I bought a bunch of Viper parts and was going through the boxes. I found this very detailed document and determined it was from Unitrax in California. I'm kind of assuming it is for a Yellow Box, but can't be certain. It's very detailed and I'm sure it will help someone in the future.
I've never heard/seen anything like this until today. It appears legit, but I can't help but be a little dubious as to authenticity (out of Gurney's shop). The 'Cuda Dan ran in Trans-Am was not his favorite car, even a little.
Perhaps, but I have no certain knowledge of that. I would strongly doubt they would modify the casting for engine blocks that had only 2 years remaining production life. Go to two different auto supply houses and get grommets to try.
Mine is a very early '96 that would stall and die on decel to a stop. It required a new flash that held the idle around 850 for about 1.5 sec before dropping down to ~700.
I still have to let it run the step span routine on rare occasions after a long time unplugged - just like you said.
The relief valve sounds like a good idea. What oil viscosity are you running? Are you being sure the oil temp is stabilized in your dry sump tank before making the pulls?
JonB at PartsRack.com knows the tire/wheel fitment intricacies of all gens in & out. Just tell him what wheels you want to use and listen to him carefully. He will guide you in the right direction the first time, and get you the best pricing anywhere.
Thanks man! A guy I was time-trialing against at the Viper Rendezvous last summer also had a B/W 96 GTS. We were way less than a 10th apart from each other out there, with him just having the edge. He had a 650 hp built motor with junk suspension and a race seat, I have a total street car...
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