This has always been a problem, even before the days of coil packs, when you had a distributor. Getting the plug wires back on right when you’re in a hurry or not paying attention.
I've been using HPtuners MPVI2+ on 2 Gen3s for a few years now. I log with 2 wide bands that provide a voltage that represents the A/F ratio. Other than taking 3.5 minutes to load a new tune (General Motors take 20-30 seconds) it's been pretty good.
On my Gen3 I used leaf spring shackle bushings for a late 80s Chebby truck - Energy Suspension 2.2110g. Some centering washers were involved. My stockers were metal on metal.
Got mine at Sam's. Rattle can painted the back side of the case so it wasn't so obvious looking at the back of the car.
https://www.samsclub.com/p/auto-group-24-34agm-36-mo-free/prod9510079?xid=plp_product_37
I handle this same situation 2 different ways, either just clear the code or I also have a spare air temp spacer to plug in the harness to run without the air box.
Old school Mopar's, both big and small block, had a larger diameter crank snout. A large diameter and thick washer was required to attach the damper because the head of the bolt was too small to contact it. The torque on the bolt was reduced because the washer would deform instead of the bolt...
The earlier Viper oil filter 5037836AB has SAE threads while the later SRT filter 5038041AA has metric threads. The SRT filter is spec'ed for all Chrysler performance vehicles of the era so it's much easier to get.
The 2 are not interchangeable.
The driveshafts are identical, so a new yoke would work, but driveshafts are usually balanced as an assembly including the yoke.
Also, the shop manual states that the u-joint straps on the rear axle need to be replaced. If you purchase a strap kit, be aware that the bolts used are metric...
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