Couple opinions needed!! FAST

CROM

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Ok ok. I'm itching to buy something, this may not last long as I do have a baby on the way. SO....Should I pull the trigger on an LC-1 Wideband and a Short shifter? I'm doing a little exhaust project and will have the exhaust apart anyway so I figured I could put in an LC-1 for the heck of it. Car will be in the air so I figure it's a good time for a short shifter and poly trans mount.

So help me make my decision!
  1. LC-1 - Yes or No?
  2. Which shifter should I get? SVS/B&M/Hurst??? The B&M is about 50 bucks cheaper than both and if you really can't tell the difference.....I'll go with the B&M to save 50 bucks.
:D:2tu:
 

black mamba1

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Short shifters look cool, but I dont like them b/c its harder to grab the short shifter w/ certainty during hard racing and shifting. One missed shift could lead to something very serious during aggressive driving. I think that is also why Nascar uses the big shifter like our stock ones.

just my .2 cents
 

Mr Hemi Head

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CROM do both...sorta.

Weld O2 bungs ( both sides) and cap them to prepare for future engine mods.

Install the shifter of your choice.

Installed the B&M to help with the 3rd to 2nd shift error...better than stock but still requires caution.
 

LPDesRoche

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Unless your future plans call for some serious NA power or any type of forced induction the wideband will just be a pretty gauge. (If you don't plan on tuning your car you don't need it) But the short shifter is always a good idea. After having lots of vettes all with either a B&M or a Hurst the stock viper shifter is garbage. Mine is even worse with the shortened bolt on the stock shifter. Made the already poor geometry even worse. It just looks better with the shorter bolt. I will be doing the shifter upgrade soon.
 

Russ M

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I don't see any reason to buy a wide band unless you have a way to reprogram your tune along with it. If anything you should get a vec 2 or 3, or better yet an AEM unit which comes with a built in dual wide band.

The short shifter is a must, I dont know how anyone drives a viper without one.
 

RTTTTed

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Agree about the wideband, where to put it? I have a digital tach with shift light on my steering column with radar & water/**** inj. lights in the base. I'd recommend the digital tach/shift light.

My stock shifter had an MGW shifter knob that was 3" shorter than stock. Now I've got a Hurst shifter with only the shift knob mounted to it. Talk about short ... I wouldn't run stock shifter as it's too high, but all shifters worked fine for me.

Ted
 
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CROM

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The LC-1 Wide Band is 185 dollars. I will not have a gauge for it, but will hook it up to my laptop for Datalogging. I was thinking about getting the SCT tuner and would use the LC-1 to monitor the changes it made. The LC-1 could also be used to fine tune future flashes for the SCT.

Russ M. LoL, take a nuke to a knife fight eh? I see where you're coming from but an AEM is going a little nutty. A Vec 2 would be practical, but I just wanted to get the LC-1 as a preemptive move for bigger and better things to come down the road, none of which will ever require an AEM (Roe blower is a big maybe, anything beyond that is never going to happen).

My shifter is notchy as crap. I already have an MGW knob and rod that is shorter than stock. I was hoping a B&M or the like would make the shifts a little more fluid and click into place better than the stock unit.
 
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kcobean

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Oh.... I can't help myself, how about a VCA membership to help support not only the website but your friendly local Viper brothers.

+1! :D

Do the LC-1, but to get you started, try just getting the MGW gripper shift knob. It makes a big difference and to me the shorter shaft of the gripper makes the throw quite reasonable.

MGW Gripper Shifter at PartsRack
 

BullRider

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I just installed the B&M and love it. I threw the stock knob on there, too, as I really like the look, and I also wanted just a tad more length over what B&M gets you just mounting a knob on their short shaft.
 
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