Difficult to shift when cold?

[Flyntgr]

My SRT/10 shifts fine when warmed up, but upon startup in colder weather (Louisiana, so colder is low 40's, high 30's) the shifter seems much more notchy, especially from 1st to 2nd. Once I drive it a few miles the notchiness goes away. Is this common, or is my "used" car (10,000miles) having a synchro go bad? The other gears are better upon startup when cold, but 1st-2nd grunts Audibly a little. By the way, the clutch pedal is all the way to the floor. Thanks.

 

[Stray Cat]

My SRT-10 has just 520 miles on it and does the same thing..... first to second almost seems like I didn't push the clutch in enough. My old RT/10 was similar.

John

 

[toomanymodz]

Right after I bought my 06 snake, it only had about 25 miles on the odometer when it became incredibly difficult to shift. The clutch pedal was all the way to the floor and the engagement occurred at the very bottom, close to the floor. I took it into the dealer and they said it was due to a bad clutch slave cylinder. They swapped it out and it's been fine ever since.

Perhaps your slave is borderline and the internal pressure loss is exaggerated in colder weather, which makes sense since seals are often more prone to leak when they are cold.

 

[twinturbo3150]

I haven't experienced hard shifting, But I also let my car warm up before I leave.

 

[my viper]

Even when you let the car warm up for a while, you will notice that the gear shift might be a little harder until everything warms up. I've noticed this on all my previous cars. Don't ask me why though. I only know to drive.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

The oil is a little thicker when cold so it won't flow through the tranny as well as when it's warmed up.

 

[Flyntgr]

Thanks, everyone. That is what I was hoping to hear-that the oil was cold and this is a common phenomenon. If it gets worse, I'll have the Viper tech check the slave cylinder by leaving it overnight away from home. Now, I think I can wait before doing that. This board really kicks!!

 

[PaViper]

Third Viper I have had now, and all of them seem a little sluggish going into second when it is cold...I would say if it doesn't get worse or do it when it warms up you should be fine.

 

[Racer Robbie]

I have to agree with all of you here but i can not stress the importance of letting the car warm up until the oil temp gauge at leasts starts to rise. I would also change your transmission oil and rear end oil and not wait till the factory recommended milage change. Be sure to use the correct fill and buy it from your dealer and do not except any other transmission oil other than the spec on the sticker on the trany. There have been clutch problems so if your clutch graps at the bottom of the pedal stroke you do have a problem that should be fixed under warranty.

 

[Yellow32]

And just letting the car "idle" won't really heat up the gearbox, you need to be turning the transmission to help that warm up. So drive her nicely until all the temps are up.

Works that way on the Lambos too.



-J

 

[09 Venom]

Same here, normal for the car.

 

[madman]

I have right the opposite experience - when cold/warmed up it shifts fine. When hot and especially on the racetrack the third won't go in - from the second. It is becoming really annoying. This is not only my experience - fellow viper owner has the same experience. So you guys get on track to get the 'real' experience.

 

[YellowViperSRT10]

I have it also. Strage though, sometimes the car after warmed up a while just slides so smooth into 2nd gear but a few shifts later it can be notchy? I have no idea why.

Also, how long do you guys wait for you cars to warm up before you drive it. Since i like to use my Viper as my daily driver, i dont think it sites for more then 1 minute on a cold start before i drive it. The car does drive and shift like crap until it is warm though.

 

[Racer Robbie]

And just letting the car "idle" won't really heat up the gearbox, you need to be turning the transmission to help that warm up. So drive her nicely until all the temps are up.
/quote]

Sorry but the transmission main shaft is turning along when the car is warming up in neutral.

 

[Racer Robbie]

I have right the opposite experience - when cold/warmed up it shifts fine. When hot and especially on the racetrack the third won't go in - from the second. It is becoming really annoying.

My friend randy had the same experience with his 2 vipers and once he changed the fluid the problem went away. This is a cheap fix so why not try it. Also the stock shifter leaves a lot to be desired as it is a stamped sheet metal part and not billet. I am assuming you still have the stock shifter. if you do I would recommend changing it out for one of our or a Mopar/Hurst shifter. Also I would call Royal Purple, www.royalpurple.com, and ask them what their replacement lube is for your cars spec. Give them the part number of what your year viper calls for and let them cross it over. DO NOT go by the crossover on the web site as it is wrong!

 

[Racer Robbie]

Also, how long do you guys wait for you cars to warm up before you drive it. Since i like to use my Viper as my daily driver, i don't think it sites for more then 1 minute on a cold start before i drive it. The car does drive and shift like crap until it is warm though.

This is why you should let it warm up until the oil temp gauge starts to show heat. The expense of gasoline is much cheaper than the expense of a repair and the lack of use of your car. I start mine up, have a coffee, dust it off, and wash the windows while it is warming up. I can not tell you how long as that depends on the outside ambient temperature.

 

[madman]

I have right the opposite experience - when cold/warmed up it shifts fine. When hot and especially on the racetrack the third won't go in - from the second. It is becoming really annoying.

My friend randy had the same experience with his 2 vipers and once he changed the fluid the problem went away. This is a cheap fix so why not try it. Also the stock shifter leaves a lot to be desired as it is a stamped sheet metal part and not billet. I am assuming you still have the stock shifter. if you do I would recommend changing it out for one of our or a Mopar/Hurst shifter. Also I would call Royal Purple, www.royalpurple.com, and ask them what their replacement lube is for your cars spec. Give them the part number of what your year viper calls for and let them cross it over. DO NOT go by the crossover on the web site as it is wrong!

No I don't have stock shifter - got B&M. Fellow viper owner has stock. Both the same issue. I don't think it's the fluid. I am thinking that something inside expands too much when hot. And that's why we can't shift.

 

[viperbilliam]

No problem here but it hasn't got cold enough yet either. What rpms are you shifting at? Sometimes at really low rpms the shifting can be a little balky.

 

[Yellow_OC_Viper]

My Gen II is also difficult to shift into 2nd when cold....also happens on the BMW M cars I've had.////////////////On another note about warming up......I've heard numerous times on car shows, magazines, and from mechanics that the best thing you can do for your car is to start it up and drive it gently until it warms up. I understand the worst thing you can do for your car is to let it idle, especially when cold. I've owned 3 "M" cars, my father owns the new M5.....all of the owners manuals AND mechanics state that the car should be driven gently, NOT idled for warm up. I can't imagine it's a BMW thing.

 

[Racer Robbie]

On another note about warming up......I've heard numerous times on car shows, magazines, and from mechanics that the best thing you can do for your car is to start it up and drive it gently until it warms up. I understand the worst thing you can do for your car is to let it idle, especially when cold. I've owned 3 "M" cars, my father owns the new M5.....all of the owners manuals AND mechanics state that the car should be driven gently, NOT idled for warm up. I can't imagine it's a BMW thing.

The reason they say that is because you are getting 0 MPG when the car is sitting idling. The Nextel Cup car owners, and all other race cars, warm up their cars lubricants and engines before racing 500 miles which is equal to 5000 street miles in wear and tear. They even put the car on jack stands and let it run in gear so as to warm up the complete drivtrain. I guess gas mileage is more important than wear and tear.

 

[Yellow_OC_Viper]

The reason they say that is because you are getting 0 MPG when the car is sitting idling. The Nextel Cup car owners, and all other race cars, warm up their cars lubricants and engines before racing 500 miles which is equal to 5000 street miles in wear and tear. They even put the car on jack stands and let it run in gear so as to warm up the complete drivtrain. I guess gas mileage is more important than wear and tear.

Thats great if we're talking about Nextel Cup cars; Not to be crass but we're talking about our vipers on a daily basis, not a race situation. The Nextel guys are essentially driving their cars to warm them up when they run it on jack stands, in gear. Hopefully none of us would take a cold viper on a track and instantly start thrashing on it before it warms up. Even if you let it warm up in the driveway you should still drive carefully for a few miles to let the tires warm up. Exactly what is wrong with letting the car warm up by driving it slowly???? Let me please be clear that I live in an area where the coldest night of the year is 36 degrees outside. I doubt the engine block ever gets colder than 50 degrees, being in the garage. I know it gets A LOT colder where you live.........if my car got that cold I would probobly let it warm up a little before I drove it away.

 

[Rizzo]

On another note about warming up......I've heard numerous times on car shows, magazines, and from mechanics that the best thing you can do for your car is to start it up and drive it gently until it warms up. I understand the worst thing you can do for your car is to let it idle, especially when cold. I've owned 3 "M" cars, my father owns the new M5.....all of the owners manuals AND mechanics state that the car should be driven gently, NOT idled for warm up. I can't imagine it's a BMW thing.

The reason they say that is because you are getting 0 MPG when the car is sitting idling. The Nextel Cup car owners, and all other race cars, warm up their cars lubricants and engines before racing 500 miles which is equal to 5000 street miles in wear and tear. They even put the car on jack stands and let it run in gear so as to warm up the complete drivtrain. I guess gas mileage is more important than wear and tear.

I'd say it's more like 500 race miles is like 100,000 street miles. Those engines are run on the edge. They rebuild them after every race.