Adjusting pushrod adjuster on HS roller rockers

KenH

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I am in the middle of my holiday projects (TBs, roller rockers, valve springs) and I am a little confused at where the pushrod adjuster should be positioned on the Harland Sharp rockers. Hopefully someone can help set me straight.

Per the instructions that came with the rockers:

1. Begin by installing the pushrod adjuster into the rocker arm. The cupped side faces down and is where the pushrod makes contact. Screw the adjuster in until only the first thread is shown on the bottom side of the rocker arm.

11. To check pushrod length, adjust the rocker adjuster to zero lash (turn the screw down until it contacts the pushrod and seats fully in the cups at the lifter and rocker, but there is no pressure on it). From this point, turn the adjuster 1&1/2 turns more. There should be about 2&1/2 threads visible below the rocker arm. This is the ideal adjustment as there is an oil passage that allows the oil to come up through the pushrod and out onto the rocker through a relief in the rocker assembly. The typical pushrod length for these rockers is 7.500” and we recommend using a high quality pushrod as the stock ones bend under pressure, reducing valve lift.

When I do the adjustment using a 7.5" pushrod length checker, mine looks like the one on the right, but per the instructions it seems like it should be more like the one on the left. The warning about the oil passage makes no sense to me as there are no oil passages around the adjuster. Just the one that comes up through the center of the adjuster and that won't be obstructed no matter where it is positioned.


If it needs to look like the one on the left, then I guess I need to go to a shorter pushrod than the 7.5" that I already have inbound. :(

Valve_lash.jpg
 

BOTTLEFED

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KenH

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Thanks BOTTLEFED. I played with it a little more last night and perhaps I was not completely off the cam lobe as it now adjusts down a little more to where the top of the adjuster is almost flush with the top of the locknut which sounds about like where yours adjusted to as well.

Someone needs to do a better installation instruction (or I am just over-thinking it)

--- Ken
 

SHELBYVIPER

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Installed a set of HS rollers on a GEN-2 and the 7.5 in. pushrods worked out just fine. Also using a bump starter makes the adjustments a little easier as you can keep both eyes on the rocker. :usa:
 

BOTTLEFED

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Roller rockers is one of the best upgrades you can do on a Roe car. It adds some top end that you lose with the supercharger. Instead of the car flattening out over 4500rpms, it continues to pull to 5500rpms. It also changes the idles sound a little.
 
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KenH

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I'll try to get it down to the dyno this spring and see what the mods picked up.

I was at 571RWHP/566RWTQ before these mods. With 70mm TB, roller rockers and lighter springs, I hope to be close to 600RWHP, but we'll see.
 

-FROG-

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I just did this on my GTS. Send me a pm and I'll send you some instructions. Just an FYI... you want it set up like the pic on the right, like Chuck said, because oil drips down into the little hole on top and through the threads, lubricating the pushrod. Actually, the one on the right is out a little too far. Here's a copy/paste below of some instructions.

Harland Sharp Roller Rocker Arm
Assembly and Installation Instructions for Dodge Vipers​
We recommend fully reading the installation instructions before beginning.​
1. Begin by installing the pushrod adjuster into the rocker arm. The cupped side faces down and is where the pushrod
makes contact. Screw the adjuster in until only the first thread is shown on the bottom side of the rocker arm.
2. Install the pushrod adjuster jam nut on the topside of the rocker arm, but do not tighen.
3. Assemble an exhaust and intake rocker set by using the intermediate shaft, which goes into each rocker shaft. The two
bores for the shaft will be facing each other, making an intake and exhaust pair for each cylinder.
4. Install the stepped stand on the bottom side of each rocker arm and insert the socket (Allen) head bolts through the
assembly from the top.
5. Remove the spark plugs and valve covers from the engine.
6. Bring a piston to top dead center on its firing stroke (both valves will be closed as the piston rises on the compression
stroke) using a starter button or socket on the crankshaft hub.
7. Remove the stock rocker arms and pushrods from the cylinder. Wipe any oil from the top of the valve tips and color with
a dark felt marker or Dykem.
8. Place an assembled Harland Sharp Rocker set on the cylinder head and snug the bolts down.
9. By hand, pivot the rocker arm, striking the roller tip against the valve. Inspect the line formed form the point of contact,
where the marker or Dykem wore off. The roller tip should be contacting the valve tip slightly inboard of the centerline of
the valve (a line should be visible just to the intake side of center, by about 0.020” –0.030” ). If the line is not inboard
enough, a shim may be used to raise the height of the rocker arm. Adjust as necessary.
10. Once the height of the rocker arm is set, install an adjustable pushrod at the cylinder being test fitted. If an adjustable
pushrod is not available, a stock one could be used for checking the pushrod length.
11. To check pushrod length, adjust the rocker adjuster to zero lash (turn the screw down until it contacts the pushrod and
seats fully in the cups at the lifter and rocker, but there is no pressure on it). From this point, turn the adjuster 1&1/2
turns more. There should be about 2&1/2 threads visible below the rocker arm. This is the ideal adjustment as there is
an oil passage that allows the oil to come up through the pushrod and out onto the rocker through a relief in the rocker
assembly. The typical pushrod length for these rockers is 7.500” and we recommend using a high quality pushrod as
the stock ones bend under pressure, reducing valve lift.
12. Once the correct pushrod lengths and rocker mounting heights have been determined, proceed with installing the new
rockers and pushrods at each cylinder.
The procedure will be to:​
•​
Set the piston to TDC on the firing stroke.

•​
Remove the factory rockers and pushrods.

•​
Install the new pushrods and rocker pair.

•​
Tighten the rocker arm bolts to 35 ft/lbs.

•​
Set the adjusters to zero lash, plus 1&1/2 turns.

•​
Tighten the adjuster jam nuts to 18 ft/lbs.

•​
Reinstall spark plugs and valve covers.
13. Start the engine and let it run for approximately 5 to 10 seconds, then shut off. Let it sit for a moment. The purpose of
this is to let the oil pressure build and get the oil to begin flowing through the pushrods and onto the rockers / valve
springs. The engine will be very noisy at this time.
14. Start the engine again and let it idle for a minute or two, check for oil leaks at the valve covers. As the engine runs more,
the valve train will get quieter. Do not be alarmed as it will be very noisy at first.
Your installation is complete and you can begin driving the car in a normal manner. There is no adjustment

maintenance required with the original type hydraulic lifters in place.
 

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