******* anti-freeze. what the....

Fatboy 18

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NO, NO, NO

Timing cover screws 40N-m (30 ft.lbs) Same for Water pump ;)

A/C Compressor Mounting Bolts 23N-m (200 Inch Lbs)

If you removed the Oil Filter adapter? Install replacement gasket annd torque to 11N-m (95 Inch Lbs) Have fun :eater:
 
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Darth Menace

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NO, NO, NO

Timing cover screws 40N-m (30 ft.lbs) Same for Water pump ;)

A/C Compressor Mounting Bolts 23N-m (200 Inch Lbs)

If you removed the Oil Filter adapter? Install replacement gasket annd torque to 11N-m (95 Inch Lbs) Have fun :eater:

thanks for the help. I did the math and 200 inch/lb is 16(.6666666) ft/lb correct?
 
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Darth Menace

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Don't ask me on that one, im not good with numbers :(
Ya, i thought it was kind of like multiplying to by 12 because there are 12 inches in a foot. I just googled a calculator and it came to 16.66666666 so I was right ( for once) on that one. thanks for the help! I *** this goes smooth tomorrow
 

scottmarston

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Was my upper radiator hose when this happened to me. Huge puddle of coolant just after driving it. Never over heated. I replaced both hoses.

Same here. I tightened a hose clamp too much after changing the head gasket and it split the hose. Never over heated, but it was ******* on my exhaust making steam...best get it fixed.
 
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Darth Menace

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Hey guys so I ran it for about 30 min yesterday. Warmed up and ran good. My only concern is that after running it there was a spot about 8 inches wide of antifreeze. I looked underneath the car and opened the hood and stared in there. I could not see where its coming from. The spot was in the centre of the car (if you cut it down the middle lengthwise) at the front area of the car. I was just wondering does the antifreeze overflow land on some bar and then drop in that area? Maybe there is a teeny hole in the rad and it will show now that the cooling system is tight. Or could it be the antifreeze that kind of fell on the lower part of the car are when we were doing our repair? Anyone have a way of trying to locate this. It's not a big worry, but would be good to know what it is
 

Fatboy 18

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***! So when you removed your front timing cover did you notice where coolant had been leaking from? Have to say after changing my gaskets the car is dry as a bone!

Sorry to hear your still having trouble :( So with the car sitting on level ground where exactly is the puddle? Is it at the front under the nose or further back directly under the timing cover? If your happy with the way you did the timing cover the only other thing in that area it could be is possibly the thermostat gasket or the rubber hoses?

Sound like you need to pressure test the system. :(
 
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Darth Menace

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I'd have to say I'm happy with the way the timing cover/water pump gaskets were done. I even looked through that bad boy to look them over and no leaks there. I thought that it might be a hose too, but I looked through them and didn't see a leak (doesn't mean it isn't a bad hose). Also right before I ran it I topped up the antifreeze and I thought it might be the overflow, but I don't think its in the right area. Seems sort of the rad area.
 
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Darth Menace

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True enough. It seems minimal and I'm not worried yet. At least I'm happy to say its not the gaskets..a leaky hose or something isn't as much of a worry
 

Jack B

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Stick it in gear, have someone sit in the car with their foot firmly on the brake pedal.

You will need a 6 sided 1/2 inch square drive or 3/8ths square drive 31mm socket Torque setting is 340 Nm - 250 Ft Lbs BIG NUMBERS!

See here :)
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/642102-Crankshaft-damper-bolt?highlight=crankshaft+damper+bolt

Let me add a bit more info:

1. Put the car into fourth gear and set the emergency brake while standing on the brake pedal, this should lock the crank down.

2. You will need either a 1/2" or 3/4" drive socket and ratchet/extension, you would shear a 3/8" drive extension.

3. I used a 30"long 3/4" drive ratchet/torque wrench with a three ft pipe on the end. The torque wrench verified that it did require that much fulcrum.

4. To make it easier, you want to remove the upper cross member. It comes off easy after you jack up the car in the center of the lower cross bar of the frame.
 

Fatboy 18

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Let me add a bit more info:

1. Put the car into fourth gear and set the emergency brake while standing on the brake pedal, this should lock the crank down.

2. You will need either a 1/2" or 3/4" drive socket and ratchet/extension, you would shear a 3/8" drive extension.

3. I used a 30"long 3/4" drive ratchet/torque wrench with a three ft pipe on the end. The torque wrench verified that it did require that much fulcrum.

4. To make it easier, you want to remove the upper cross member. It comes off easy after you jack up the car in the center of the lower cross bar of the frame.
Woops! I meant a 3/4 Drive socket :( Oh well, the rest of it was OK :D
 
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Darth Menace

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Thanks for the help guys. I'm glad to have this over with. Hopefully I can track down where those other drips are coming from....I went to canadian tire today and asked if they had that cooling system pressure tester and they said they don't sell them. I was hoping they had it in their loan-a-tool program but I guess now. They don't even sell it
 

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