Draining coolant from block

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ruf575

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I just came back from this place and I could not find them anywhere! I looked all over the store hoping to find them :(. I asked 2 employee's if they had anything like this and both looked at me like I was ***** :rolleyes:. Thanks I'll try again tomorrow!
 

Viperless

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Took a spare 3/8" drive extension and ground the square end until it fit. Works perfectly.
 

FrankBarba

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Sears...Craftsman Tools - Can't beat them
Lowe's
Home Depot
Snap On
 

95Viper

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I went to a local hardware store and bought hardened square steel stock and had it cut to length. They actually gave me the small piece for free.
 

eucharistos

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is it really necessary to drain the block? if you do a fresh water flush a couple of times before adding coolant, wouldn't that be good enough?

the reason i ask is i have a phobia about removing the block plug (seriously)
 

dave6666

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You don't even have to breathe oxygen if it bothers you. But just like you will die if you quit breathing, so will your car if you fail to drain the block.

:eater:






















































Really though. It's a more thorough way to do the job, and gets out sediment that a flush will not remove. Just do it. They come out easy. Put a little dope on the threads when reinstalling, and don't double-torque the snot out of them.
 

SA HEAT

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is it really necessary to drain the block? if you do a fresh water flush a couple of times before adding coolant, wouldn't that be good enough?

the reason i ask is i have a phobia about removing the block plug (seriously)


It takes several more times than a couple....it took me six drain/refill/run/cool cycles to get completely clear water....I had the same reservations about removing the block plugs.
 

Ron

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The block plugs in my engine had a hard gray thread sealant that "snapped" when first removed, but were no problem. Unfortunately the material was also applied generously to the thermostat bleeder and after several attempts at removal decided to wait until a thermostat change to more safely take it out for the 1st time. The plug was just too small for me to feel comfortable applying the required torque against it.
 

Bolt

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If you are going to attempt this than you should be more than mechanically inclined to grind down a 3/8 extension. I did this also and it work great. I drained my heads three times with my modified tool. You will use it multiple times.

Sorry for the late reply. Glad to see everything worked out!
 
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SquadX

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Took a spare 3/8" drive extension and ground the square end until it fit. Works perfectly.

Just what i did after spending two days driving to every tools and auto store I could think of to come up short handed.
 

eucharistos

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thanks for the drain plug cojones, i'll try it

Put a little dope on the threads when reinstalling,

what kind? just regular old plumbers pipe dope, anti seize...:dummo:

tia
 

dave6666

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thanks for the drain plug cojones, i'll try it



what kind? just regular old plumbers pipe dope, anti seize...:dummo:

tia

I use Loctite PST, an anaerobic sealant with PTFE. Do not use anti seize.

This Rectorseal is a good product and likely available at Home Depot or Lowes etc.

http://www.rectorseal2.com/files/213/tplus2.jpg

Just watch the torque with any pipe dope with PTFE. Your tightening torque should be about 1/3 to 1/2 of what the breakaway torque was.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Here is the cheapest I've found of the SK brand pipe plug sockets which is advertised as Made in the USA and been around since the 1920s. $74.45 for the complete set.

SK Hand Tool 19781 11 pc. Pipe Plug Socket Set

I also found another brand for $30 less but it didn't say anything about being made in the U.S. so I'm not posting it. I try to buy U.S. whenever it seems right. With tools it just seems right.

SK also sponsors auto racing.
 
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