Gen III Cat-Back Exhaust Installation - HELP!!

[BlackViper03]

I know I'm not the best at using the forum search tools so, I'm waving the white flag and asking for some help!

For literally hours I been trying to locate a thread with illustrations on how to replace the stock exhaust with a cat-back for my Gen III (2003).

I found one thread but (my luck) the pictures had already been removed and all it it had was dead links. I couldn't find anything in the illustrated upgrades section either.

Before I undertake this myself, I would like to hear (and see) from others that have done this before.

ANY help with my search would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!

 

[Matt162]

theres something like 10 "screws" that hold each body panel on...3 in the wheel well in the front and one in the rear. I believe two 10mm or 12mm nuts facing down towards the ground, behind the panel, to gain access the plastic vents should be removed from both sides. Take the door sill plates off and theres one other screw towards the front of the door sill...then the whole panel with come off exposing the exhaust from there.

 

[Wiretech]

My boy and I did my exhaust high flow and borla it took us a total of 7 hours you have to put the car on stands to remove the crossover and cats if its still there,the hardest part is to loosen the (1) 10 mm bolt at the front it takes about 15mins, the other part is to adjust the exhaust tip 1/4 inch to the front of the sill because the exhaust will expand 1/2inch when it gets hot, that took us about 2 hours each side , we must of pulled it off then on 12 times I suggest you 2 person lining up the side sills to avoid chipping your paint. Hope this help good luck.

 

[Black Adder]

Go here
http://www.corsaperf.com/media/pdf/INS5028.pdf
Corsa cat back installation instruction. Part 14174

 

[BlackViper03]

Thanks for the quick responses. I appreciate that the Corsa installation sheet has pictures to go along with the instructions - gives me something to think about.

Even though I'm pretty experienced with working on my (older) Mopars, I'm still not sure if I want to tackle this myself. I just put in some resonator delete pipes on my SRT Challenger and that went really well - but removing and aligning my Viper's panels makes me a bit apprehensive.

Anyway, you folks are the best - thanks again!

 

[Allan]

Not hard to "line up" side sill panels, but that one nut just behind the wheelwell will test your sanity.

 

[wikkid]

You can pull the inner fender plastic off and get to the nut much easier. Self explanatory if you look at it long enough.

 

[BlackViper03]

I went out this morning and felt around for that second bolt/nut near the wheel well - wow, I can see what you mean by testing your "sanity" trying to remove it. I had a hard enough time just trying to find it by touch - I don't know how in the world I'd be able to get to it with a wrench.

Does taking off the inner fender plastic require removing the front wheel? I'd hate to take apart more than I have to just to get the sills off, but if that's what it takes I guess I've got no choice.

Anyone else have a better (easier) suggestion in order to get that bolt loose?

 

[steve911]

I went out this morning and felt around for that second bolt/nut near the wheel well - wow, I can see what you mean by testing your "sanity" trying to remove it. I had a hard enough time just trying to find it by touch - I don't know how in the world I'd be able to get to it with a wrench.

Does taking off the inner fender plastic require removing the front wheel? I'd hate to take apart more than I have to just to get the sills off, but if that's what it takes I guess I've got no choice.

Anyone else have a better (easier) suggestion in order to get that bolt loose?

You have a PM call me the number is in the message

Steve A.

 

[ninjakris]

I just did this project on friday. I will be the first to admit that I am no expert mechanic. If you are at all mechanically inclined (it sounds like you are), you will be fine. It took a friend and me about 4.5 hours to remove all the factory pipes and install the header back magnaflow systam (with cat-delete pipe). The hardest parts were getting to that damn 10mm nut behind the wheel well. Just remeber that you only have to loosen it, not take it all the way off. I loosened the inner wheel well and moved it around enough to get a socken in there. Another thing to think about is picking up some WD-40 or something to spray on the factory exhaust connections. They were pretty tough to seperate. I kinda hammered the hell out of mine to get them separated to remove them. You will also have to remove the big skid plate under the car to remove the cross over pipes, again, pretty straight foward. As for getting the correct alignment, I reccomend test fitting it and marking a ruler or piece of cardboard the height the top of the exhaust tip is, and where it need to be. This helped me to only have to test fit the tips once.

I also reccomend a lift if you have access to it. It is really nice to get it up in the air to complete the job. Its possible with jack stands, but like another person said, it will take a while.

 

[FrgMstr]

Not hard to "line up" side sill panels, but that one nut just behind the wheelwell will test your sanity.

Will not bother you at all if you use some smarts.

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[Flexx91]

Piece of cake after you remove the fender liner to access the 10mm forward sill nuts. After that, just make sure you follow the instuctions on the Corsa website for tip alignment - as you will have to remove and re-install the sills at least twice each to get the tips lined up. Prior to final sill re-installation, start the car at let it run until it reaches the maximum operating temperature (one full heat cycle) to allow for pipe expansion and contraction (you'll be surprised at how much the system expands) then let it cool. As an added measure to prevent movement of the tips, you can also tack weld the joints at the muffler to CAT connections.

I was a little apprehensive about this at first myself but after getting into it, it's really not difficult at all. Gen. III's will take a little bit longer due to the removal of the crossover (you have to remove the re-install the belly pan and its pieces and "wiggle" it out of the frame).

 

[CPPRHD265]

Removing the center crossover was by far the "trickiest" part of my install. Some folks lose their minds in frustration and take a sawzall to it. If your laying on your back, take your time and look at it awhile. If your good at Tetris you'll see how to get it out in no time, without cutting it up

I also had to test fit the sills about 4 times to get the pipes to line up just right. Remeber to favor the forward part of the opening a bit as the pipes will "grow" a little with heat.

 

[TowDawg]

Will not bother you at all if you use some smarts.

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^^^BINGO^^^

I was going to go take a pic of mine to post on here, but you saved me a trip to the garage.

 

[FrgMstr]

This is what it will look like when you have the sill off. Hole needs to fit a 10mm long-socket 1/4" drive.

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[xRUSTYx]

Sorry to pop up an old thread. Figured it was better then starting one

Frg ... I just did this to mine. Your's are quite a bit cleaner cut, but I was successful!!! Do you just now leave the holes open to the elements or do you cover them with something?

Appreciate it!

 

[FrgMstr]

Sorry to pop up an old thread. Figured it was better then starting one

Frg ... I just did this to mine. Your's are quite a bit cleaner cut, but I was successful!!! Do you just now leave the holes open to the elements or do you cover them with something?

Appreciate it!

I leave mine alone and do not have issues at all. You could lay some good quality electrical tape on it if you want to close it off though. Lay it down and tuck it under edges to keep it from peeling.

While you got the side sills off, you might think about getting rid of the crappy OE screws that hold the bottom of the sill to the car. There is a good thread read here on that has lots of feedback in it.

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads...-Stripped-quot-Nutsert-quot-Machine-Screw-Mod

And for what it is worth, those high dollar looking clamps have always let the exhaust slip and turn on my car. Put $5 muffler U clamps from the parts store and torqued the hell out of those without ever having another issue.

 

[xRUSTYx]

Cool ...

Thanks frgmstr ...

Not sure I have the balls to drill & pop rivets in to the body just yet! Was sweating the drilling/dremelling just on those (2) holes ... Couldn't imagine doing more yet