My headgaskets

[JRB]

<font color="red"> </font> I am trying to work up my courage and replace the headgaskets on my 94. I do all of the work on my car that I can, this goes a little further than I am comfortable in doing. Would like to hear from some of you who are not mechanics and who have tackled this job. Thanks,

Jim

 

[HP]

Do a search, this is an ongoing thing so maybe you can
catch someone at your stage and share info.

 

[FRANK]

It isn't brain surgery. You just have to take your time and keep in mind you're working with aluminum. You'll need two torque wrenches - one foot pounds and one inch pounds. Female torx sockets. Several 1/2" drive extensions - varying lengths. Good 6 point 19mm sockets. Hose clamp pliers. Patience.

I am in the process of doing mine as we speak. Clean everything thoroughly. Do a little each day. That is what I am doing. A few hours a day. Ripping it apart was easy. Cleaning the block and head surfaces was a pain and was time consuming. My old headgaskets didn't look bad at all which concerns me. The new ones are really beefy and appear thicker due to being multi layered. I hope that the new gaskets plus the increase in torque seals the leaks once and for all.

Having a lift made the job very easy. Without one, you'll be under the car several times. It was also nice to raise the car off the ground about a foot to work on the motor from above. Saves your back when leaning over.

If you wrench enough or alot it isn't a bad job. If you can't do anything but plugs and oil changes you may want to leave the job to a pro. Or find someone who can help you out who has the knowledge. Plenty of people here who have done this who can offer advise. I consulted both Doug Levin and Chuck Tator for some items of concern and they both offered sound advice. I have been in the Viper hobby for over 3 years now and have found that these guys know their stuff! Good luck.

 

[phiebert]

I am about to do the same thing with a buddy helping me. Which ever one of us gets to it first can give pointers to the other. I'm waiting for my gaskets. Keep in touch, we have the same cars and the same job coming up.

By the way, does your car steam out of the collant tank cap when it gets really hot (fan coming on hot).

 

[FRANK]

No steam out of the cap. Right around the first week of December, I backed the car out after sitting for a few weeks. Upon walking into the garage, I noticed three little puddles of antifreeze about the size of a dime on the floor.

I retorqued the head bolts to 100 ft. lbs. on one side - five more foot pounds than what the original stock gaskets called for. It stopped the puddles. However, when I put the car in the air on my lift after 5 minutes of idling, there were two tiny droplets under the head where it mates to the block.

Figuring it was time, I ordered the gaskets from Chuck Tator, who had them at my door within a few days. I highly recommend him. Great prices and can offer you tech help if needed. I hope to have this done within the next week or two...lotta work inbetween the Viper!

 

[JRB]

Good to know I am not alone! FRANK, thanks for listing the items needed. Let me know how it goes for you. I will order the parts and tackle the job. I do not have leaks or steam, but I the exhaust smells funny at times, and I am just concerned about the gaskets. I will feel better knowing they are replaced. Working on the Viper is great theapy.

Jim

 

[Tomer]

I recall Chuck telling me there was extra care needed with the cylinder sleeves? Are you guys aware of this? Also, would this be
the time to install the Roe lifetime rad hoses?

Good luck! BTW, what is the Viper approved method to break the head free from the block once its unbolted? I assume the usual pounding
and prying is NOT Viper approved...

Tomer

 

[FRANK]

I used a short 2x4 about 8 inches long. I then hit it with a hammer against the rough cast portions of the head - not on any machined surfaces. I was able to get the front part of the head up asily and I moved the head around without pulling up to break the back part free. The liners were all above deck and looked even. I am willing to wager that if one liner was a thousandth or two off more than another liner that the gasket would just crush around the liners sealing them perfectly anyway. The new gasket is impressive. Actually my old head gasket wasn't in too bad a shape...hopefully the new gasket will solve the problem along with higher torque specs...

 

[Scott E. Smith]

I have done this job also.....take the heads to a good machinist.gen 1's heads tend to "walk" due to the initial torque from the factory. this causes warpage which needs to be addressed.also a good time to go with a 180 t-stat.you need to check the cylinder sleeve protrusion with a feeler gauge, they should be within a thousanth of each other. basically uniform across the bank.just keep everything clean clean clean! I kept a shop vac nearby whenever working on the engine. good luck, it's not that hard.