Prep work for Viper Days

REDSLED

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I will be attending the Viper days Buttonwillow event in 2 weeks and am wondering what maitenance I should have done to my GTS before the event? Should I take out the stock pads and put something else in? Should I drain & change the radiator and brake fluids? For those with Viper Days experience, or any other track experience, is there anything I should make sure is done prior to their inspection? I want to be prepared as possible for my day at the track. Thanks for your help in advance.
-Jonathan
 

Janni

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Viper Days have an extensive track prep checklist that *may* be able to be downloaded off their website....

Basically, make sure you have fresh fluids - especially a good hi temp brake fluid... Like AP Racing 600, Motul 600, Castrol SRF. You will be ****** on your brakes and the stock fluid will probably not survive.... Stock pads are actually a pretty good compromise pad - albeit expensive to replace. Our track newbies usually run their first event on stock pads and several have made it through 4 or more events...

Fresh oil, clean clutch fluid, good coolant, brakes brakes brakes, consider switching to Redline Power Steering Fluid - it will not boil like stock fluid. Then, tighten the bejeezus out of your cap and checkit after every run session.

If you cannot get the tech inspection sheet, call or email Courtney and she can send - its a good starting point.
 

SoCal Rebell

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Hi Jonathan, how ya doin'? OK here goes, being it's your 1st or 2nd event you won't be super fast so there are some things you can get away with. The things I do recommend for you are:

1-Change out your brake fluid, this is pretty much a must (there is NO worse feeling then boiling your brake fluid on the track), use one of the 600 fluids suggested, you'll need 2 12 oz. bottles, Motul 600 is the easiest to find (at most cycle shops). If you wanna come by the track Friday afternoon I can help you flush your system.

2-Oil should be fresh, 15-50 Mobil 1 preferably because of the hot Cali climate AND because your '97 has a smaller oil pan and oil starvation is a problem with that year, a trapdoor system would be nice but not necessary.

3-Make sure you have at least half your front pad life left (about 1/3 of an inch), if you change ot your pads go to a Brakeman 3 pad it's a really good street/strip pad.

Other then that make sure everything is in good working order, all other fluids are topped off and don't forget your "hat".

Oh yeah, I almost forgot the most important thing ...............................................................................................bring that pretty girlfriend of yours
laugh.gif
 
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REDSLED

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Thanks to all who answered my questions, I appreciate the info. Ron, I'll make sure the girlfriend is there looking sweet as ever but make sure your tongue doesn't get ran over with all the traffic going on in the pits.
-Jonathan
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Fry your brakes once and you’ll change the fluid every day. I’ve got some cooling ducts that work well and I could probably get away with going two days without changing it, but for $24 it’s worth the peace of mind to do it every day.

Power steering fluid too. It’s cheap.

The rest of the fluids are up to you. How long do you want your equipment to last?
 
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REDSLED

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Thanks for the tip Chuck. What cooling ducts are you referring to? I plan on changing all the fluids out about 2 days before the event. I've already ordered Brakeman 3 pads from Pemberton and he also gave some tips about tire pressure. If you can think of anything else Chuck, please let me know.
Thanks-Jonathan
 

viperdoctor

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by REDSLED:
Thanks for the tip Chuck. What cooling ducts are you referring to? I plan on changing all the fluids out about 2 days before the event. I've already ordered Brakeman 3 pads from Pemberton and he also gave some tips about tire pressure. If you can think of anything else Chuck, please let me know.
Thanks-Jonathan

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Can you share the tips on tire pressures?

I would also like to know more about your NAPA air ducts, Chuck. Do you have pictures of how you routed them? I have a 2001 GTS that I would like to add these to for a track event.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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They're air inlet ducts for $8. Use plastic ties to hold them. I found out that NAPA is twice as expensive as Discount, Western, Pep Boys, etc. I'll try to get some pics this weekend. It aint pretty but it works and is affordable.

A two piece rotor helps too.

Tire pressures - one pound DOES make a difference. See how the car handles after it heats up. It's easier to start high and drop a pound at a time.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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What Janni said, but I would add brakes, brakes, brakes.

I also use Redline and tighten the power steering cap with a pipe wrench.
 

Andrew2KRT10

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Sorry, I don't see why the fluids have to be FRESH, as in new....changed that day. I've spoken to many who think it's alot of baloney and a real convenient way to throw lots of last minute business to Archer who is conveniently right there to do the work.

I know I'll hear back on this one, so let me say this. I did Watkins, had a great time, very well organized. I've bought alot from Archer, no problem with Archer. I'll continue to do Viper Days, and to buy from Archer. I just think that the whole new fluid thing, new pads, new this and that is a little overboard sometimes.

Bottom line is that your car has to be in good condition and ready to take punishment. Hey, for that matter, the tech doesn't know the last time you greased the car, nor if your lugs are torqued down to specs. You have to take responsibility for your car & life.

Geez, I'm in for it now.
 

Janni

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Andrew,
The tech inspection is there for SAFETY - nothing more, nothing less. The speeds that we see in these street cars on the track is UNREAL and your car needs to be in A1 condition.

No one says your car needs to have fluids changed that day. And the tech is in no way intended to make the Viper Days suppliers money.

You'd be surprised what some folks do to their cars- or don't do. Boiling brake fluid at a track like Watkins Glen or VIR or Road America can be FATAL. Power steering problems can be almost as bad. Redline PS fluid costs $8 for a complete change. AP 600 brake fluid costs about $20 - $60 for the first flush about. You can piss that away eating McDonalds for a week...

Oil changes are cheap.

If a person does not pay attention to detail on fluids (which are cheap and easy) it reflects poorly on their ability to make the right decision on running brake pads too low, or coming in when something "just doesn't feel right". It calls into question whether their tires have been checked for nails or other problems, or their lug nuts torqued every day at the track, or that they've laid underneath the car and looked for ANYTHING that may be failed or failing. How about cracked ball joint boots fromthe heat spewing grease onto your rotors?

No one can check everything, but there is a minimum we need to do to be as safe as we can on the track. I applaud Skip and Viper Days for doing a complete tech inspection that some may find intrusive. I KNOW how our cars are prepared, but now I don't have to worry as much about how well someone else's car is prepared. Take a look at how FAST even the rookies are going at some of these tracks. We need to be safe - and this is just one aspect of trying to make the very dangerous sport as safe as possible for folks that may not have a race technician preparing the car, or be a first time participant. Even the best maintained street car cannot and will not stand up to the abuse that it can see on the track without some very specific changes.

OK, sorry - rant over... but you cannot compromise on safety.
 

Larry Macedo

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Jonathan, you may want to also do what I call an NBC, nut and bolt check. Go around your car and ensure all your suspension bolts, half shafts, steering rack, etc., are tight before going out on the track. Have fun!
 

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