Purner wheels, Stoptech brakes and Sebring

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

It's not even the same car anymore! The Purner (904)-437-7822 setup grabs like it's on a rail, virtually no push, and I didn't lock the Stoptechs once! The Porsche pads lasted the day. Good news for me, as some of you may recall my previous post when I welded the pads to the pistons! However my day ended halfway through the afternoon because of air in the brakelines. How does that happen anyway? Looks like I'm still seeking a better brake cooling setup. Is anyone using Archers brake cooling setup?

More pics and video to come. For now click here.

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[FikseGTS]

nice pics.... jeeez..... in that one picture with you and the GT3.... looks like your at the limit.... and the GT3 is on a sunday cruise! maybe he was done with that turn or something....

let me know when the vids are up...

Brooks

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by FikseGTS:

looks like your at the limit.... and the GT3 is on a sunday cruise!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I knew somebody would notice something like that. Fact is, in the pic it is being driven by the pro's wife and let's just say she was no Viperbrat(Judy). I lapped her twice. But when the pro was driving he was all over everyone's butt. I think he said the car weighed 2400lbs. Lotsa fun.

 

[Ernie J]

Chuck,
The air in your brake lines is caused by the fluid boiling.
You must have been at the Safe Motorsports event.I'm surprised
you had a problem boiling fluid. The sebring long course,which
you ran, is easy on brakes. What kind of fluid are you using.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ernie J:
The sebring long course,which
you ran, is easy on brakes.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I've heard the opposite. I beginning to think that a course only as ******* the brakes as the driver.

Yep, Safe Motorsports. Motul600.

Good times!

 

[Ernie J]

Chuck,
It certainly isn't the brake fluid. Motul is the best.
I had the same problem with my Viper several years ago
when I was doing the Safe Motorsports events. Sean Roe
solved the problem with titanium pistons in the stock
calipers and a proportioning valve to give the car a lot
more rear brake. Cost less than 500.00 dollars and I
never had fluid boil again.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I've already upgraded to Stoptech. I'm looking for a good brake cooling solution. Archer's looks like it should work well. What are the rest of you using???

 

[Sean Roe]

Chuck,
Just a suggestion here. If you're getting the brake fluid to boil with the StopTech upgrade on the car AND running Motul 600, you should call StopTech directly.
For what it's worth, Ernie is right about the long course being easier on brakes. Lots of long straights to cool them. The short course is tough on brakes and you'll want to get them working properly (not boiling fluid) before you run a Safe event there.

 

[JonB]

Chuck........Glad you had a great track day at Sebring...My favorite track for a lot of reasons. Thanks for posting so much of your great day! Thankfully, StopTech is always ready, like a personal pit crew, to help you with concerns: pad choices, cooling, rotor choice, etc. They are a top-notch support team.

The 12-hour teams there had a LOT of brake problems. Huge problems in fact. So braking can be difficult there, especially for an 'admitted' (confessed?!) driver with brake techniqes like yours, who literally incinerated the OEM brakes.

And air can certainly get in the lines with an incomplete bleed, even with an excellent fluid choice like Motul - 600. Talk to Bob Lee at StopTech, as Sean suggested......

With all due respect to Sean and ErnieJ, I am NOT a fan of Titanium pistons as the initial step to solve cooling issues. Why? They simply disguise and ignore heat sources. The heat still occurs! Where does it GO? Elsewhere! Seals get destroyed, dust boots, etc. Stop/cool the heat....not the transferrance.

You must first reduce the heat at the SOURCE: rotor/pad interface. Ti pistons to not do this. They just stop a lot of the heat transferance to the backing plate, and the fluid. (You could install Ti-foil backing plates for about $80....not $500.)

Add cooling ducts, deflectors; wheel-well skirts (Sean has em?) extract air. Do you have a pyrometer to take rotor/caliper/tire temps. You certainly need one at your advancing levels! Once we know your heat range, lap speeds/times....and maximize external cooling...then look to costly Titanium pistons.

Again, THANKS for the great photos !