SOME 01 VIPERS HAVE BAD WATER PUMPS!!

Viper Wizard

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Ok I just got off the phone with the Engine Engineer at the Viper Plant, and he has confirmed that some of the 01 Vipers have a Water Pump problem!
The problem is when the Manufactor assembled the Impellers[putting the metal sleeve into the Plastic Impeller the Temp on this process was not right, and cracking the Plastic!]
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Any 01 Owners if you see your Viper running hotter then normal-BACK off and check your Water Pump!!
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Plastic Impellers have been on Vipers since day one!
 

Qualitywires.com

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so all vipers genI and gen II's have plastic impellers? Can these be replaced with metal? Why did they do that? I doubt i was for weight savings.
 

99 R/T 10

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Plastic impeller?!! Not a bright move on a car this expensive. What is the cost of a replacement with metal internals?

Mike
 

99t1

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..tell me about it...This pump failure cost me a good finish in a race in Oklahoma recently and was a sad day for any Viper fans as Miata's cruised past my overheating Snake. Who ever designed the coolant reservoir overflow tube to DUMP HOT ANTIFREEZE IN FRONT OF THE FRONT TIRES SHOULD KNOW THAT IT MAKES THE CAR SPIN AND LOOSE CONTROL!!!
 

Y2K5SRT

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Hmmmmm... I have had my GTS run hotter this summer than I think is "normal" and thought it could possibly be a case of "burping". I checked the archives for "normal" operating temperatures and believe I am a little hot at times, with the temperature needle often hovering around the last hash mark before the "red zone" on the gauge. It cools down at highway speeds but seems to get there with any spirited driving. I then read this thread:

http://vca1.viperclub.org/ubb/Forum14/HTML/004924.html

Now, I don't want to play "Chicken Little" here, but I can't help but wonder if Arrow got some of these same water pumps when they did some factory rebuilds. I don't know if they are interchangeable with the Gen I's, but both Andrew and I had our engines done by Arrow in very late 2000/early 2001. Anybody have any insight as to what Arrow uses for rebuilds? I would assume that the water pump is probably "updated" with every rebuild, as it would seem silly to make a motor like new and then throw on the old water pump.

Genuinely curious,

Chris
 
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Viper Wizard

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Chris,I was told this morning that the few Water Pumps that the Viper Plant got back under Warranty[last two weeks] Had cracked Impellers!! THE BUILD DATE STAMPED ON THE IMPELLER WAS TWO YEARS OLD! THE STOCK ON THEIR SHELVES IS AT LEAST ONE YEAR OLD!
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DON'T play around-PULL the Pump!!
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YES, ALL have Plastic Impellers!
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99t1,SORRY, If I had known it would have been out of there!!
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Tom F&L GoR

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At the risk of upsetting those with '01s or plastic impellers... (that's everyone, I guess)

Metal impellers can corrode. There are industry standard water pump tests which run at speeds, flow rates and temperatures to exaggerate worst case conditions, and the end of the story is that if the additive package isn't robust, metal impellers can get pitted badly enough that holes are punched through. It's not just the impeller, poor coolant additive packages will allow the aluminum water pump housing to also become pitted.

Change your coolant at the recommended periods. Use a long-life coolant (better additive technology.) Blame this problem on assembly procedures, not the materials.
 

JonB

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Tom, F&L GoR:
At the risk of upsetting those with '01s or plastic impellers... (that's everyone, I guess)..........Metal impellers can corrode.........Change your coolant at the recommended periods. Use a long-life coolant (better additive technology.)


Blame this problem on assembly procedures, not the materials.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I agree.......16000 Vipers on the road, and a few plastic retainers in 2001 busticate.......not an impeller problem.

SYMPTOM....... The temp rises rapidly when motor is running fast, then cools relatively fast once the motor slows down.

CAUSE: The impeller became freewheeling under load .

FIX: 2001 Pump Under Warranty....... With all due respect to WIZARD, I dont know how many Tech's can get permission to pull the pump without any symptoms....the problem is just now showing up on radar......

MORAL: WATCH THAT TEMP GUAGE and if it climbs fast, SLOW DOWN!
 

jimandela

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Wizard,
I am new at all this so try not to laugh but you said
"back off and check your water pump"
how?
is that something I can check easily?
or do you mean go to the dealer and have the water pump
checked?

I must admit I have had her up to 140mph and the temp never even went near red!!!for a short burst... so I guess I am okay
it now has 3500 miles and no moves in the temp above normal and one day it was 105 heat index and drove for 2 hr averaging 100mph... no problems...
 
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Viper Wizard

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jimandela, What I'm saying is all of you [00-01] KEPT an extra eye on your Temp Gauge! If it starts to run alot hotter then NORMAL at higher RPM'S
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/Back off the Throttle/Stop and find out why! If nothing obvious[water levels-fans running-normal temp at an Idle] Go see your Tech/Dealer and have he/she PULL YOUR PUMP!

jonb that is a SYMPTOM!!!!

If the Dealer WONT take your word there is a problem, you are at the WRONG Dealership!!
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Or have them call me and I'll explain life to them!!
devil.gif

914-763-3136
 

Ulysses

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Has anyone seen 2000's with a bad water pump?

Reason I ask is that I had the same thing happen to me that happened to Chris. Driving on a mountain road, behind a slow car, up hill, third gear, around 3000 RPMs, hot humid day at the beginning of summer, AC on. Temp gauge hit the hash mark to the left of the red. Once the road opened up and I got up to speed, it came back to within the three hash marks at center. It hasn't happened since and I thought nothing of it.

This weekend, take the same road, hot and humid, get stuck behind slow traffic AGAIN with the AC on, third gear. Temp gauge goes to hash mark left of red. Turn off AC, still in 3rd and about 3000 RPMs, the temp drops to in between the last hash at center and the hash to the left of red. Road opens up, I speed up, all is fine again. Get on the freeway doing 75-80, no problems.

Burped the system, no real significant air is trapped there.

What do you all think? Same bad water pump problem or normal?
 
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Viper Wizard

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ulysses, We haven't seen any 00 bad w/p [yet?],but for the price of a w/p verses the price of an engine! Maybe you might want to think about checking the water pump? If it was mine,I would!
 

BigsViper

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I was under the impression that any short-term temp below the red was ok. (Quote from someone on this board)- "Vipers typically run hot." In heavy traffic mine sometimes runs up to the "hash mark just left of the red zone" but once I get going again the temp drops back down to around the right hash mark of the group of three in the middle (hot days). By getting it checked do you mean have the dealer pull it Mr. Wizard? Thanks
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Viper Wizard

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bigsviper,Yes they run hot,but if it runs hotter then normal and your basics are good[water level-fans running-temp normal at idle]water pump?? The best way is to pull the pump! An hour&half on and off/and little silicone you will sleep better at night!!

I was told that NOT all pumps were bad!?

I'm just trying to help U/all! I'd rather pull the pump then a motor!!
 

JonB

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ED FLANAGAN:
.......I have a 2001,........I just completed my break through period and was driving pretty aggressively......When I glanced down to see the needle all most buried in the red. Of course I immediately pulled over and let the car cool down.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

YIKES! Normally, when the needle gets "buried in the red" you also get an automatic "CHECK ENGINE" light as well.

SYMPTOM: During hard driving, the water temp rises dramatically to red zone. When slowing down, the temp drops within normal ranges.

Diagnosis: The water pump impeller may have broken from the shaft and freewheeling while the water pump is turning at high speed. It may 'catch' as the motor slows, restoring SOME circulation. Or, it may freewheel forever, making you run to RED anytime during aggressive driving.

In heavy, hot wx driving in heavy traffic, it is common to approach the red zone, esp during break in periods of the motor. This is NOT a concern. I do know of 1 owner whose 2001 needed new head gaskets after exactly such a water pump failure and a couple of serious, repeated overheats.........

AGAIN:MODERTORS - Can we have a SYMPTOM / DIAGNOSIS archive somewhere? Wizard pointed this out, with thanks. DanC ditto.
 

99t1

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What's frustrating here is you run the car hard and you overheat. You open the hood and watch the thermostat go on and the coolant level move so you think the pump is working fine but the impellor is spinning on the shaft only (in my case) when the car was at high RPMs...so we figured the pump was good and kept burping the car FOR DAYS!!!

Once we finally figured out it was the pump by inspecting it, Wizard had an excellent suggestion of putting a pin through the impellor and shaft so it can't slip...we will probaqbly do this on our next pump (under warranty) but be aware that the impellor was also cracked and broken in 2 places.
 

Cudaman

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D/C was aware of it .....I told Viper plant manager in late 2001 at a Central and N. Fl meeting were she ( I forgot her name) was a guest speaker.... that I had original replaced on my new 2001 and that replacement had gone bad as well. I also had told her that my Viper tech had also replaced 4 other 2001 Viper water pumps.... the Viper tech said he had been to a Viper tech school update and 3 other tech had replaced 2001 water pumps as well.

Plant manager said she was also going to check into it.....this happened in late 2001 or early 2002.

Cudaman :usa:
 

jimandela

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Mine just went !!! i am pissed!!!
8400 miles, i am a signal light give it alittle and watched the needle go from
in the middle 190 to the hash before the 250 mark but not over.

my car usually runs right in the middle of the three \ | / but not here / 250
it didnt go to the over 230 but sat right at it once i got off the gas back to 190

[******] it!!!
now i have to call the dealer and hope my vipertech has at least done this once before.
or i will be the guinea pig!!
Errrrrrrrrr!!!!
:mad:
 

ElDiablo Viper

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Do 02's have same problem? When I'm driving and reving over 4K RPM my car gets hotter and running between III I on the temp display. Is this OK?
 

jimandela

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ElDiablo Viper,
i would say nay!!
my car never went over the \|/
till tonight! if i punched it it would go to the outer edge of the 3rd line but not over !
tonight it just shot up like a rocket went on the throttle.
right to 230 mark!

my build date was 11-28-00 6 am
per the door jam if this helps...
 

FE 065

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There will be bunch of Viper plant folks at a club picnic Saturday.I'll have to bring up the water pump issue. Are replacement pumps now known to be okay? What about 2002 cars? Was the pump problem cured before the 02 run?
 

ViperJoe

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SONS OF BATCHES, it IS old! I didn't even notice. Cudaman not Chuck is the one digging around in the archives! LOL
 

Cudaman

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Jeeze Ward, this thread is two years old!!! Are you board 'cause Bradenton got rained out tonight? LOL

1) You are right Chuck..... I did not go into archives ..... someone was looking at it on "who's on line" it applied to my car so I went..... I had not seen it....so it was NEW news to me. oooops.... sorry
about the date
2) LOL Are you board 'cause Bradenton got rained out tonight? You are right about that one too..... more than you know !!!!

Cudaman :usa:
 

Cudaman

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My build date is 5/01....

Chuck.... I never look at the dates.....but NOW I do.

Cudaman :usa:
 

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