What can it be???

jordan01GTS

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:confused: Ok let me go through everything here. I bought my 2001 viper wrecked, I have completey rebuilt the car, I had to replace the computer due to damage, I started the car for the first time and it smokes out of the exhaust kinda bad, mostly out of the passenger side. The car has no cats, new plugs, drained the older gas.
I unpluged the injectors 1 by 1, and from what it seems each one I unplug the better it got, pulled all 5 off the passenger side and no smoke.
What can the be, I dont know what to do now.
 
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jordan01GTS

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I also forgot, it sounds kind odd as soon as it starts maybe a slight miss, and then when you come off idle, it has a good hesitation to it? dont know if that helps
 

RTTTTed

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Sounds like a bad injector or injector wiring.

Pull all the spark plugs and do a compression test. Easiest way to do pass side is to remove the heater top (4 bolts).

Using a mechanic's stethascope listen to each injector and they should be able to be heard clicking (opening or closing). If you have smoke then the compression test will tell you if the engine is sealing OK or not. A bdark/black spark plug would indicate oil or fuel rich. Normal sparkplug color verges on ivory colored.

I had injector wiring problems and sometimes my engine smoked slightly blue from overfueling on two cylinders. I found bad connections and adjusted fuel trim to two cylinders.

If the computer was damaged then the wiring and connectors should also be suspect? If the engine was running and the engine wiring got some short circuits that MAY have caused other wiring components to fail?

I fix it, but I HATE wiring and computers!!!

Ted
 
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jordan01GTS

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Are you saying like for example if it is bad injectors or dirty injectors that they may be dumping fuel even when not suppose to?
 

RTTTTed

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Yes, the injectors have a dwell time that they stay open. If there is a bad connection, bad 02 sensor, bent or dirty injector the spray could be wrong or spraying for too long and the air fuel misture would be incorrect. This causes misfires and rough running etc. If the 02 sensor or wiring is faulty the computer could be signalling the injectors for more fuel causing the mixture to go bad in cylinders, etc.

Also, if the fuel pressure regulator or return line is faulty extra fuel could be dumped into the engine (but probably both sides) causing it to run too rich.

Start with the spark plugs, new oxygen sensors then spark plug wires if the passenger side bank plugs are all dark. Maybe a spark plug wire of a spark plug is bad - check/change the plugs and compression test the engine first!

Ted
 

RTTTTed

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Depending on what exhaust you have it should include a crossover/balance pipe that connects both sides of exhaust together.

Ted
 
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jordan01GTS

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well since I Changed the plugs the first time I started it, it should be obvious in that bank what is going on. Thanks for the help. How can I tell if there is a bad connection? with listening to the injectors how will i know what is not the correct sound
 

RTTTTed

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The best/easiest way to tell if the injectors are working is if they click - or not. Simple and free.

If you find a bad cylinder (black plug) and the compression is good it's probably the injection or it's timing. You can easily switch the stock injectors into different cylinders and see if the black/wet spark plug follows the injector (that would mean the injector's gone bad). I do have a set of nearly new (3,000mi.) stock injectors that I can sell if needed. If the spark plug stays dark with an injector from a ivory colored plug's cylinder then, obviously the injector is not the problem.

Search and read the many threads on this site, there's quite a few.

Anyway plugs and compression test and listen to the injectors first.

Ted
 
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jordan01GTS

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So I pulled Plug and I found a problem for sure, what can cause this? the clean one smells like gas. I put a meter on the wire and it reads 6.8k ohms, tested another that read 3.6k ohms. dont know if that helps. I dont believe the others should be so dark and sooty, I just changed plugs recently


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jordan01GTS

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Also the Clean plugs injector is not making any noise, Does this mean its stuck open and dumping fuel causeing it to flood out?
 

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It ain't burnin' at all. Either you have zero spark or so much fuel that it won't atomize and ignite. It'd have to be incredibly rich to not burn at all if there's even a little spark....have you checked to make sure there's mojo at the plug end of the wire?
 

DrumrBoy

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Sorry for the double post, I meant to start with the judgment that if the injector isn't pulsing you're probably right. Whatever you find, change the oil, you probably went from 5W 30 to 93 octane.....
 

dun4791

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Jordan...if you want to try my injectors to see if they work give me a call......if they don't work just bring them back over later.
 
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jordan01GTS

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:confused:Ok well I am home from the shop now, I decided to try and move the injector and now the one that wasnt clicking no clicks in a different port, and the one that was working doesnt, So i checked the lead all the way to the computer and I have continuity, but when the car is running it only reads 0.6 volts, I tested another and it read 12-13 volts. So now What, Im so lost now,
 

RTTTTed

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Looks like a fuel dwell timing issue. computer keep the injectors firing for too long ... or you could have too much fuel pressure? Use a cheapo oil pressure guage screwed to the schraider valve (looks like tire air pressure valve) at the engine's fuel supply for the injectors and check the fuel pressure. Should be 55psi dropping to 50 at WOT.

Since it seems that it may be all injecotors that could be the 02 sensor, the )2 sensor wiring as well. Have you got stock injectors or an injector driver box?

Ted
 

AZTVR

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I decided to try and move the injector and now the one that wasnt clicking no clicks in a different port, and the one that was working doesnt, So i checked the lead all the way to the computer and I have continuity, but when the car is running it only reads 0.6 volts, I tested another and it read 12-13 volts. So now What, Im so lost now,

OK, I think you have a misspelling there (no clicks) that could mislead, so, I'll re-state what I think you were saying:
You swapped injectors between a good cylinder and a bad cylinder and verified that the problem stayed with the cylinder, not the injector.

Your continuity results are consistent with the failure found in the other recent thread:
http://forums.viperclub.org/2743237-post161.html
Check for a short between the wires.
 
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jordan01GTS

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Thats exactly what I was saying, that with a injector from a good cylinder the problem was still on the bad cylinder.
So according to that thread is that I possibly have a short?
Is that what would cause the computer to only put out .6 volts on that lead?
Is it possible that the computer is causing the problem?
 

AZTVR

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So according to that thread is that I possibly have a short?
Is that what would cause the computer to only put out .6 volts on that lead?

It depends on how resistive the short is and where exactly you were measuring. But, yes, you could possibly get that voltage reading with a short like on the other thread.



Is it possible that the computer is causing the problem?
Yes, there could be a failure on the computer board, likely a driver circuit if that's what they have. I'm just guessing there. You would have to measure the voltage at the computer output, with the wire to injectors disconnected on the good and bad circuits and compare them, If the voltages are different without the load connected, then it is the computer, IMHO. Easier would be to disconnect the connector at the computer and injector, and measure the resistance across the two suspect wires ( not the computer's outputs) and compare to the good cylinder
 
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jordan01GTS

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The resistance from the injector to the computer harness is the basically the same, across all the injectors. so what your saying is disconnect the problem injector wire and test the port on the computer and see what the voltage is? If its still .6 volts could be computer, if it changes to 12-13 volts its the wire?
 
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jordan01GTS

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Ok well I test the injector harness by the injectors and my meter reads a pulse on the 4 cylinders that are sooty and a solid 13 volts on the problem cyclinder, what does this mean?
 

AZTVR

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Ok well I test the injector harness by the injectors and my meter reads a pulse on the 4 cylinders that are sooty and a solid 13 volts on the problem cyclinder, what does this mean?

Sorry, you are now beyond my experience level. Hopefully the smart people will show up here.

Its hard to understand exactly your results. You are now getting a solid 13V where you were getting 0.6V ? Are symptoms changing or are you just measuring something different now?

Sorry, I am not familiar with what the signals should look like, so I won't speculate further; although it sounds like you have definitive symptoms that don't sound like a wiring problem.
 
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jordan01GTS

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Yeah it seems like that might be what I have to try. I don't realy know anyone with a viper so I might just have to go buy another one and try it
 
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jordan01GTS

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OK well Ive been thinking and I have some questions. From what I believe is that each injector has a signal wire that goes all the way to the ECU, they also each have a ground, are the grounds all looped together or are they individual? The reason I am wondering about the ground is that when i test the leads at the ECU I use a chassis ground and I get a solid 13 volts on all 10, when at the injector harness I test each injector lead by taping both wires on each harness and then it reads a pulse. I just want to make sure of everything before I go buy another ecu.

Does anyone have a Pin layout of the ecu plugs?
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Sounds like a service manual is in store for you.

Pretty sure all injectors are fed 12V continuously and the ECU selectively provides the connection to ground to complete the circuit and fire the injector.
 
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