Jeff D’Ambrodios in downingtown has a mechanic named Jeff Palmer. Jeff is awesome. He’s serviced vipers since the 1993 model year. He did my 94 head gaskets. He’ll do custom mods too. He’s been a great resource to me. It’s a huge shop but he’s the only viper guy and very well trained. Tell him I...
Mine has come off at 75. At which point it was never ever used again. Model year 94. Autoform to the rescue. But making a statement about precise speeds is nonsense. Prevailing winds, and gusts, etc. c’mon
For my 94 if the throttle bodies are out if sync, it’ll stall when rpm is allowed to fall while coming to a stop or similar. It’ll hunt. Does all sorts of nonsense. And for my car, the procedure for syncing doesn’t work. I manually adjust them for exactly the same liftoff.
This cost me about 400 bucks. Took the dash out, went to a body shop and told them to paint it as though it were an exterior plastic bumper. I’d do the lower radio bezel but I’m afraid I’d do more harm than good removing it.
What I’m trying is “side sill thermal insulation”. Available at the theViperStore.com. If you get stuck in stop & go traffic on a 95+ degree day, those sills are ******* the paint
I didn’t read the whole thread so forgive me if this doesn’t seem relevant. but if the pump is bad, that is quite a roundabout way to get there. You’ve done the hard part (pulling the tank). Pull the pump and test it. If you need instructions I’ll be happy to help. It’s easy to remove, easy to...
I’d be interested in hearing more about the cat back, and the custom. I have a 94. Doing something with the exhaust has been part of my plan behind a lot of other stuff that I’ve now completed
It’s not a short to gnd. That would energize the solenoid and allow reverse. I don’t think you have proven it’s the pcm (yet). You should check the solenoid signal wire for an open. Which again means setting your meter to ohms. Car off off… Connectors disconnected at pcm and solenoid. One probe...
Viper Specialty, thanks for chiming in. Is there a, most likely spot for a leak? I have to refill once a year. Workable, but I’d like to find the bleed
I brought my system up to 27 psi. Once I got over about 10 psi the compressor started. I ran for about about 15 minutes and the pressure never deviated from 27 psi. I’m back to my earlier thinking. It won’t turn off unless cold probe says to do it and that’ll be rare I think. I guess the AC is...
Lastly, the question of which sensor; the low pressure cutout, or the low temperature evap switch, is most involved during normal compressor clutch operation, is the key to knowing what is going on. I guessed earlier it was evap temp. I once again think my guess was perhaps incorrect. I’m going...
Another addition: the way the system is wired, the dashboard AC switch, the low pressure cutout switch, and the evap temp switch… are all wired in series. So the power train control module gets one signal. If all three switches are closed, the compressor can be instructed to engage. The low...
The only other sensor in the system is a temperature probe on the evaporator. This is meant to turn the compressor off when the evaporator gets too cold. I suspect that in a properly charged system. The temp probe is the main source of feedback that would cause compressor on/off cycling
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